Buying used...what to check? B7500, BX1850...

[davesisk]

Hey guys...I sold the old 1974 B6000 that I've had for a couple months (at a very favorable price too), and now I'm looking for a little better machine. I know I want 4WD, HST, power steering, loader, ROPS, mower, and at a good price, even if that means high on hours or some dents and dings.

There are two candidates locally and/or within a reasonable drive at a good price:

- 2001 B7500 w/FEL and RFM, around 700 hours...mostly used for bushhogging a pasture. Doesn't appear from 1 pic and a phone call to have been meticulously maintained...

- 2006 BX1850 w/FEL and MMM, around 600 hours...mostly used for mowing I gather, and I also suspect hasn't been maintained meticulously. (The seller replaced the hood with a new one...I would guess he dropped something off the loader bucket onto the hood and damaged it.)

I think both of these are good candidates, both are pretty low hours. I can catch up on maintenance as long as they're not broken-down and barely operating. I ain't buyin' a piano...I'm OK with it having some dents, dings, a little rust, a few minor things that don't work, etc. I suspect either one is going to be at least a little better shape than the old B6000 I just sold, even if it's only because they are 25-30 years newer.

Both of these are a little bigger/heavier/stronger/more capable than the B6000...I believe I'm probably leaning toward the B7500 though. I *think* I'd prefer a MMM, but I'm actually not sure, can see benefits/drawbacks to either MMM or RFM.

So, here're my questions:

Q1: For each of these, what should I be checking out and examining to make the buy/pass decision?

- Engine...starts easy, minimal black smoke/no other smoke, oil clean, no froth in oil after running, no visible leaks, coolant clean/no floaters...anything else? How can I check if it overheats too easily?

- Loader hydraulics...level OK, no visible leaks, loader cylinders appear strong, pins greased, etc.

- HST drive...what am I checking here? (I recall seeing someone once say "put the brakes on hard and try to drive it forward...if the HST isn't tight enough to stall the engine, then there may be a problem"...is this correct or no? It actually sounds like a good test...presumably, there's a hydraulic relief valve that should open at some point.)

- Front drive assembly: I saw someone complaining about bearings/casting being aluminum and wearing out on the B7500...check for leaks around the front drive? What else here?

Q2: The B6000 had a separate hydraulic pump and reservoir for the loader hydraulics...I'd assume both the B7500 and BX1850 run the loader hydraulics off the HST drive...correct? Are the extremities of the transmission/drive components lubricated by the HST fluid, or are there multiple reservoirs to check?

Q3: Any common/systematic problems with either of these that I need to look for? I believe mowing clogs the radiator fins of both, IIRC. What else?

Clearly, that old B6000 was a rugged little tractor, or it wouldn't have been still running and fully useable after 40+ years. I'm hoping to snag something just as rugged with the stuff I need/want, and I'm OK if it's just a little beat up as long as the mechanical shape is good. I do want to avoid picking up something that's going to take thousands in repairs that I can't do myself (I'm reasonably handy...can change fluids, fix wiring/lights, weld cracks, change hydraulic hoses, etc)...so engine, drivetrain, etc., need to be in good useable shape.

Thanks and cheers!
Dave

 

[85Hokie]

What the prices on those two machines?

DOES the B7500 have power steering ? I dont think it does....

All your other questions are good places to start - like to see pictures up close of these two you are looking at

 

[davesisk]

I'll check on the power steering and get some pics when I get there...it'll be this weekend, presumably.

So, assuming both of these have been a little neglected (which seems like a good assumption to make), what should I be looking for in terms of problem indications?

Cheers,
Dave

 

[85Hokie]

I'll check on the power steering and get some pics when I get there...it'll be this weekend, presumably.

So, assuming both of these have been a little neglected (which seems like a good assumption to make), what should I be looking for in terms of problem indications?

Cheers,
Dave

I guess the price will have a bit to do with it....
The B has a little more umph......the BX a little newer.

MMM might not be what you want depending? Then again a the rear mower might be better.

These it?

https://raleigh.craigslist.org/bar/d/kubota-with-front-loader/6367425507.html

https://winstonsalem.craigslist.org/grd/d/2006-kubota-bx1850-4x4/6350794064.html



If'n me - I would have to see both in person and make a judgement on what I see and what each PO has to say about each one.

 

[davesisk]

Yup, got it. (Hard to tell a whole lot from pics though.)

I'm undecided on whether I'd prefer MMM vs RFM...but I think I can make either one easily work for me (I don't have that much to mow...just figure it'll go much quicker with a tractor vs a push-mower...LOL).

I'm still trying to get a good idea from experienced owners like yourself on what paces I should put the machines through while I'm there and what things I should explicitly check while I'm there looking at them. Any advice on that would be much appreciated...

Cheers!
Dave

 

[Cathy Liebchen]

That B looks trashed

 

[chim]

I looked at BX's but bought a new B7500 back in 2002 and kept it for 10 years. It had power steering. It was a nice tractor, but I often wished for more weight or a few more HP. It did handle a 5' RFM and I ran a 5' rotary mower on occasion. The RFM was a heavy Landpride and if the grass was tall it was a little much going uphill. The FEL was never on when using the RFM to keep the unit short and nimble. I had to take it easy with the rotary mower, and it probably wouldn't have worked without having the FEL for weight up front. In 2012 I replaced it with the L3200 and it's a lot more capable.

 

[davesisk]

That B looks trashed

Maybe...hard to tell from one pic. I do see what would appear to be a wet/oily spot on the ground directly beneath the loader valve...that would suggest a substantial hydraulic leak. We'll see I guess...

Dave

 

[Wbk]

On the BX check the HST cooling fan for broken blades and also the drive shaft boots ( see if they're rotten) the fan belt. All three can be a little difficult too replace, the brakes are probably out of adjustment and he probably doesn't have a grill guard, also see if the power steering has a lot of play it could need a cyl. seal kit the front axle pivot bushings could be worn if the hrs. are high and it's never been adjusted.

 

[davesisk]

On the BX check the HST cooling fan for broken blades and also the drive shaft boots ( see if they're rotten) the fan belt. All three can be a little difficult too replace, the brakes are probably out of adjustment and he probably doesn't have a grill guard, also see if the power steering has a lot of play it could need a cyl. seal kit the front axle pivot bushings could be worn if the hrs. are high and it's never been adjusted.

Excellent...thank you, this is the kind of details I'm looking for.

Q: The front axle of the B7500 pivots side-to-side (just like the B6000 did...helps keep traction, but also means you have to be careful jacking up the rear end)...does the front axle on the BX also pivot side-to-side or no?

Dave

 

[davesisk]

...It did handle a 5' RFM and I ran a 5' rotary mower on occasion. The RFM was a heavy Landpride and if the grass was tall it was a little much going uphill...

Were you in high range or low range going uphill with the RFM?

TIA,
Dave

 

[Wbk]

It has a center pivot bolt in the middle of the front diff. that has to be adjusted once in a while (yearly) it's not hard to do just snug up the end nut, if there's no oil leak the bushings should be ok the seals are Orings.

 

[davesisk]

It has a center pivot bolt in the middle of the front diff. that has to be adjusted once in a while (yearly) it's not hard to do just snug up the end nut, if there's no oil leak the bushings should be ok the seals are Orings.

Thank you for those details!

So, found this used B7500 checklist:
https://medium.com/@tractormike/kubota-b7500-used-tractor-checklist-472964b532b

Cheers,
Dave

 

[chim]

Were you in high range or low range going uphill with the RFM?

TIA,
Dave

High range. the B7500 only had High and Low. I rarely used low because it was extremely slow. With the L3200's 3 ranges there's a gear for every occasion. There are enough horses to mow the same places in high range that bogged the B7500 down. And the L has a 6' deck, where the B was 5'.

 

[davesisk]

OK, checked out the B7500...it was essentially a run-down piece of junk...took 30 mins to get it started, rusted hood, he had taken some 3 point parts off, the PTO wasn't spinning, the loader stopped powering down...lots of issues. The hydraulic fluid was foamy, which I believe would be an indication that it's sucking air into the hydraulics on the suction side (probably from some of the dry rotted hoses or filters that have probably never been changed). I don't think he'd get more than a couple thousand for it as is, and it's not something I'd want to tackle repair of. That said, once started it ran great, the HST drive seemed to work just fine, etc. It's got potential if someone wants to really tear into it and fix everything that is wrong, but it would be a considerable piece of work.

So, next on the list is the BX1850...one question, will the 3PH lift high enough that I can carry this without the ripper dragging? (The B6000 only lifted it about 2" above ground...how does the BX1850 do with it?) http://www.agrisupply.com/point-subsoiler-x-shank-ripper-tooth/p/73410/

Thanks!
Dave

 

[davesisk]

The BX1850 followed me home. Ran great, looked to be well-maintained. I couldn't find a leak anywhere. The front axles look good, no leaks, and the boots are good. The only very minor things I could find wrong were the cruise control lever is broken off (I'm sure that's not a difficult fix, but not any high priority since I'd rarely use it), and a weld on the positioning rods of the 3PH lift was broken (also not any big deal...this is the adjustable contraptions that control how far apart the lift arms are spread when nothing is mounted in the 3PH). The loader on it is practically new, and the bucket still has the paint on it, so it has seen very little loader work...the seller said it was mostly used for mowing, and the mower deck shows some use but seems to be in good shape. The forward/reverse treadle sticks just a little, but I recall there's a return-to-neutral spring that might need adjusting and/or maybe it just needs a hit of grease.

I was concerned that the BX1850 might be too small, but it's not as small as it looks in most pics (I guess the "lawn tractor" styling is a little misleading perception-wise)...I think it's probably just about right. With the CarryAll that came with it, it just barely fit on my 5x10 trailer.

Regardless, I'm pretty pleased at the moment.

Cheers,
Dave

 

[85Hokie]

Great job Dave,

you did your homework and you got a great machine!!! Send pictures when you get a chance.

 

[davesisk]

It didn't really happen if there ain't pics, right? Here ya go...

 

[davesisk]

I've only gotten maybe 20-30 mins of seat time so far...but I see the forward/reverse treadle is sticking in non-neutral sometimes, which I gather is a pretty common problem. Looks like there's a grease fitting under a flap on the floorboard, and there's some fixture with adjustable spring tension under the right front fender somewhere...I'll hit it with the grease gun and give that spring tension a look at my next best opportunity. Doesn't sound like a difficult fix/adjustment.

Question: How does the parking brake lock work on the BX1850? Do you push it down to lock the brake, or pull it up to lock the brake? Not sure whether this is working properly or not...it's not completely clear from the manual which way you push it to lock the brake.

Dave

 

[85Hokie]

I've only gotten maybe 20-30 mins of seat time so far...but I see the forward/reverse treadle is sticking in non-neutral sometimes, which I gather is a pretty common problem. Looks like there's a grease fitting under a flap on the floorboard, and there's some fixture with adjustable spring tension under the right front fender somewhere...I'll hit it with the grease gun and give that spring tension a look at my next best opportunity. Doesn't sound like a difficult fix/adjustment.

Question: How does the parking brake lock work on the BX1850? Do you push it down to lock the brake, or pull it up to lock the brake? Not sure whether this is working properly or not...it's not completely clear from the manual which way you push it to lock the brake.

Dave

yes - that zerk is OFTEN overlooked!!!!

Is there a "button" on the floor? like a round little quarter size button?

If like the '70 series - push break and hold button down, and let up on both.

Curious - I notice the paint looks bright on the FEL and dull on the rest, is this correct or just the camera playing tricks???

Where is the damage that the person was talking about ...plastics???? or am I thinking about another machine?


looks like a great machine!