Tires for Kubota L210

[jwage]

I just bought a Kubota L210. I am not sure if it is a 1971 or 72 and one of the front tires isn't holding air. Is this the right kind of tire on Amazon?

https://www.amazon.com/LOT-4-00-15-...&qid=1500251324&sr=8-3&keywords=4.00-15+tires

The dimensions listed here says 4.00-15

http://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/001/2/7/1279-kubota-l210-dimensions.html

Also, do you know how I can tell what year it is? The serial number is 22123

 

[jwage]

Here is a pic.


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[jwage]

The front tires have the following printed on them "firestone 4.00-15 F0-1-2 3 ib 4 ply rating"

 

[1970cs]

The tires look to be in decent condition? Why not tube it?

Pat

 

[jwage]

I guess I probably could have just put a new tube in it. They were pretty cracked though, so I just went ahead and replaced the tires. Thanks!

 

[jwage]

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[L4740]

FWIW Your front rims are on backwards or inside out. However you say it. The front wheel weights go on the inside and the valve stem should be on the outside. Not sure if you can see it very clearly in this picture or not.

 

[workhorse]

Don't know about tires, can't guess year but that looks like a cool rig. I like it !!

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[Dave_eng]

FWIW Your front rims are on backwards or inside out. However you say it. The front wheel weights go on the inside and the valve stem should be on the outside. Not sure if you can see it very clearly in this picture or not.

Good call by L4740...........

I had similar wheel weights on an old Nuffield 465. I found they made life difficult. Suddenly a tiny wheel and tire which you want to align with the wheel studs is very heavy. Driving on rutted or bumpy ground caused the bolts securing the weights to the wheels to get loose. I found as well that they appeared to put more impact type loads on the steering. I gave them away and went with weights on the front tractor frame.

Your rear mower seems to not be connected to your tractor in the best way judging by how it is suspended in your photo.

How about posting some pictures of the rear of the tractor from the side and rear. The mower needs to be able to float independent of the tractor as you go into and out of dips.

Other owners who did not pay enough attention to the details for mowers found the two parts of the 3 pt on the mower deck would buckle. These are the two side of the triangle the arms on the mower make.
Dave M7040

 

[L4740]

If memory serves me correctly, I believe the L210 was made in '72 and '73. The early version had a few carry overs from it's predecessor the L200. One thing in particular was the early versions still had a cartridge style oil filter. Seen in picture below. It is the horizontal tube shaped thing with the yellow decal on it.
The later versions had the newer style spin off oil filter. I can't tell for certain from your picture but it looks like you have a spin off oil filter which would lead me to believe you have a later version tractor.

 

[jwage]

Good call on the tires being inside out. I think you are right. A guy came buy the other day and he was telling me sometimes people will invert the way it is mounted to give the tractor a little more width. I wonder if that is normal/safe? I will post some other pictures soon.

One of the front headlights does not work. It's not even wired up. The rear lights don't work either. One of them was completely broken and the other does not work. I don't think the glow plugs work either. Hoping I can figure out how to replace it with some after market parts.

 

[jwage]

Here are some other pics.

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[Dave_eng]

Good call on the tires being inside out. I think you are right. A guy came buy the other day and he was telling me sometimes people will invert the way it is mounted to give the tractor a little more width. I wonder if that is normal/safe? I will post some other pictures soon.

One of the front headlights does not work. It's not even wired up. The rear lights don't work either. One of them was completely broken and the other does not work. I don't think the glow plugs work either. Hoping I can figure out how to replace it with some after market parts.

I have marked up one of your photos to show what looks like an electrical bullet connector unplugged from somewhere.

Looking at the back side of your dashboard, it is nice to see how simple tractors used to be before all sorts of electronics arrived.

The pto shaft appears to have no guard and this can be dangerous if you get close to it.

I have posted a couple of links to educate you on how dangerous these innocent looking parts of your machinery can be. If you already know this stuff, then I apologize for being your safety cop. Often people without a farm background get a tractor and don't realize just how dangerous certain features can be even for the most knowledgeable and experienced person.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gzNJrytf1g8
https://www.gemplers.com/docs/tailgate-training-tip-sheets/9-pto-danger-en.pdf

Your finishing mower with no belt guards is another matter to deal with.

Plse take a photo of the front of the dash so I can perhaps help further with your non operating electrical issues.

The next marked up image shows what I believe to be the fuses for your tractor. The one in the blue circle appears to be blown.

There is an excellent Work Shop Manual for your tractor on Kubotabooks.com

This link should take you there.
http://kubotabooks.com/AutoIndex/in...s/&AutoIndex=bcce87585ff33daf0544464af7385133


Dave M7040

 

[jwage]

Here are some more pics. Two of the fuses are definitely blown. I think I can just replace it with something like this.

Ninth-City 6 Way Car Auto Standard Blade Fuse Box Holder Block with 3A/5A/10A/15A/20A/30A Fuses https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CBGUXN4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_iWOFzbA0V8MWE

Thank you for the safety tips. I am aware the guard is missing and I am looking for a replacement. Or maybe I just need to get a new pto shaft?

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[Russell King]

You can get guards from Bare-USA for not very much.


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[Dave_eng]

Here are some more pics. Two of the fuses are definitely blown. I think I can just replace it with something like this.

Ninth-City 6 Way Car Auto Standard Blade Fuse Box Holder Block with 3A/5A/10A/15A/20A/30A Fuses https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CBGUXN4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_iWOFzbA0V8MWE

For the best job long term and also ease of installation you need a fuse block where the terminals are bolt as it will be more reliable for you in the long term and less work to install. Your existing bolt on terminals need a good cleaning but that is a better end product than a new crimped on terminal.

Modern fuse boxes are designed to have a single power supply in and then individual circuits out.

This fuse block has independent circuits not ones fed from a common bus.

https://www.amazon.ca/Blue-Sea-5037...1501533516&sr=1-17&keywords=marine+fuse+block

After all this machine is going to run for another 35 years!

Dave M7040

 

[jwage]

Thanks Dave. That certainly will be easier to install. A whole bunch easier!


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