B6000 valve springs

[chip]

A few years ago I purchased a B6000 which would not start, tested compression and found it drastically low. I took it apart and discovered the piston rings were broken. I honed the cylinder walls as there was little to no ridge, put in new rings, rod bearings, and gaskets. Wanted to lap the valves at that time but needed it running asap. Starts and runs good. Checked the compression and the front cylinder is good but the rear is a little low. Now I have some down time between mowing and snow plowing so I am lapping the valves. I have the head off with no problems but I can not release the valve stem keepers to get the valves out. I have a cheap universal overhead valve spring compressor but it just pulls the bottom of the spring up.
Is there some trick to these, or do I have the wrong tool? I tried pushing down with a proper sized socket and the spring does not have much tension and the valve opens but if the head is flat on the table the retainer will not push down at all and the spring will not compress as the valve hits the table.
Any and all advise will be greatly appreciated, Thanks

 

[D2Cat]

Chip, it shouldn't take too much to get the keepers free. Maybe go to your local auto parts store and see if they have a spring compressor for rent. Usually you make a deposit and get it all back when you return the tool.

 

[cviola2005]

Set the head flat on the table. Use the socket to hold it down tight, and tap a few times with the hammer. I have seen the spring cap and keepers stuck together like that, and a few taps breaks them free.

 

[chip]

Thanks for the hammer and socket trick it worked on the first strike. Now to lap and reassemble.

 

[cviola2005]

You're welcome! Glad to help, and glad to 'hear' your project is moving on.

Now....if only we could 'see' the project....

 

[chip]

So Sorry I did not take any Photos. But during the job I noticed one of the valve seals could be replaced. If it becomes a problem can these be replaced with the head still on the block? I do not see why not. The machine runs great and starts so much better.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

So Sorry I did not take any Photos. But during the job I noticed one of the valve seals could be replaced. If it becomes a problem can these be replaced with the head still on the block? I do not see why not. The machine runs great and starts so much better.

You can, but your going to have to come up with an adapter to air up the cylinder to keep the valve up while you replace the spring and keepers.

 

[chip]

Thanks, I think I can use my compression tester adapter into the glow plug hole. I was going to bring the piston up but I like your idea better. This time I will take some pics.

 

[lugbolt]

Been a while since I've done one, and the last one was a V2203 (MX5100). Anyway, I remember that the valve wouldn't drop down far enough to disappear out of the guide with the piston at TDC, thus negating needing to use an air adapter to hold the valve up. Some of these little engines you don't need a spring compressor at all. Just press the retainer down and drop the keepers in. To get the keepers out initially, I tap the outside edge of the retainer just once or twice. Then when you go to compress the spring it comes right off.

 

[chip]

Update
Today I replaced the valve stem seals. It was easier than anticipated. I would have liked to post pictures but it is a two hand procedure and I did not have an assistant. There are two marks on the flywheel which can be seen through the hole in the right side of the bellhousing, 1Fl and 2Fl. When 1 is seen the front piston is up and when 2 is seen the rear piston is up. After removing the valve cover, I removed the rocker assembly. With the proper piston at TDC I just had to push down on the valve spring cap with coax cable crimpers and remove one keeper with a magnet. The cable tv crimper works great because it only opens so far and is the perfect spacing. Only one keeper needed to be removed to get the spring cap off. One of the springs was stubborn so I pushed it down to the piston with a spark plug socket and gave it a very light tap with a hammer to release the keepers. Then I pried the seal off the head with a screwdriver and slid it off the valve stem with needle nose pliers. Slid the new seal on, replaced the spring cap and keepers pushing down with the crimpers. Installed the rocker assembly, and did not need to adjust the valves as the adjuster lock nut did not need to be touched. Put the valve cover back on and started right up.
Moral of the story is replace the stem seals when the head is off. Would have saved time.