L35 HST shuttle shift grinds and will not engage

[rwgagnon]

Hi, New to this group. Lots of great info in here! Could not find an answer to my issue though.

I have an 1998 or so L35 with the Clutch and left hand shuttle shifter for Forward/Neutral/Reverse and the 8 speed selector on the left. I think it is the HST, not the DT, but it does not say GST anywhere on the fenders, etc. It does have a couple of thousand hours on it, the last 400 or so by me over the last 15 years.

Now the problem: in the last couple of months, I have been getting gear grinding when going between Forward and Reverse. Initially, it would go in finally after the engine slowed a bit (clutch in), but now it will not go in at all unless I put the gear selector into 0 - Neutral. Then it shifts between forward and reverse fine (still using the clutch for it)

I can change between gears 0-8 without needing the clutch while moving, so that part seems to be OK. (which makes me think it must be the HST model)

The clutch does need the throwout bearing changed, as it makes a scraping sound in neutral until I press on the clutch. But the clutch does not feel like it is slipping and the pedal feels pretty well adjusted. All the hydraulics work fine.

Hoping someone has an idea what this might be and if I could adjust or repair something without having to split the transmission and take it all apart.

 

[rbargeron]

I think the L35 was not offered with an HST. L35's have a regular dry-disk main clutch, a mechanical shuttle and glide-shift transmission. The glide shift trans has a built-in automatic hydraulic clutch for changing gears 1-8. The foot clutch is for decoupling the engine - not necessary for shifting gears but can be used for starting off and for F/R shuttle.

From the symptoms it sound like something in the main clutch/release bearing is dragging not fully disengaging. There's just enough drag that the transmission is being rolled by the engine, even in neutral, so it grinds when you try to shift, even with the clutch "in". There's a turnbuckle in the pedal linkage where you may get enough adjustment to work better for a while. Hopefully there isn't something more urgent going on. Maybe Wolfman will chime in - he's the resident GST guy. Take care, Dick B

 

[rwgagnon]

Thanks for the input Dick. Not really what I wanted to hear, but makes perfect sense with your explanation.

Have you seen any instructions or better yet, YouTube vids, on how to get the clutch out? I understand that the tractor has to be "split" but that sounds like a huge job. That said, I will probably try to take it on if it is even humanly possible for an amateur.

 

[rwgagnon]

Thanks for the input Dick. Not really what I wanted to hear, but makes perfect sense with your explanation.

Have you seen any instructions or better yet, YouTube vids, on how to get the clutch out? I understand that the tractor has to be "split" but that sounds like a huge job. That said, I will probably try to take it on if it is even humanly possible for an amateur.

To answer my own question, I have found a few vids for other Kubota models, which are probably pretty much the same. Maybe time to send it out...

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

All L35's are GST's (glide shift transmissions, can be shifted up an down in any gear at anytime without clutching) and not HST's (hydro-static transmissions, forward and reverse pedal operation, no shuttle).

Now on to your problem,
It sounds like your problem might me multi fold, started out with a clutch that would not disengage completely or properly and then as such you have destroyed the synchronizer rings and keys on the shuttle shift.

Good new is it's an easy fix and you get to both the synchro's and clutch in the same split.
It's not hard to split an L35, I can split my L3450, almost the same setup, in about 4 hours.
Get the WSM and with that and help from several on this forum you can get it fixed and running right again in no time and save a ton doing that.

 

[rwgagnon]

Good new is it's an easy fix and you get to both the synchro's and clutch in the same split.
It's not hard to split an L35, I can split my L3450, almost the same setup, in about 4 hours.
Get the WSM and with that and help from several on this forum you can get it fixed and running right again in no time and save a ton doing that.

Well that is good news - I already have the manual and probably all the tools. Do you happen to know if the loader and backhoe need to come off first? All the vids I have seen they are off, but no mention of wether this is required or they just happened to be like that.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Yes pull both the backhoe and the loader as less weight and less things getting in the way is a much better way to go.

 

[lugbolt]

....and the ROPS/Canopy, loader and backhoe subframe. There's where most of the time is consumed on the L35 split. Have done 3 or 4. Then the shuttle shift lever where it goes down onto the transmission can be a real bear to get off. That's really the worst parts. Once that's out of the way, it's an hour job to get it split, then maybe another hour to find the problem(s) if you've done one or two.

Could be a number of things. Synchronizers, shuttle clutch problems, etc. As said, need to split and disassemble to inspect and fix. You can, however, remove the valve body from the LH side of the transmission and reach inside to feel if the hydraulic clutch's snap ring has broken. But you can't fix it from there, still has to be split.

 

[rwgagnon]

....and the ROPS/Canopy, loader and backhoe subframe.

Yes, took at closer look at it yesterday and it has none of the "quick disconnect" features of the newer versions. In addition to the ROPS, there are about 20 bolts on each side holding the loader subframe to the tractor frame. I forgot to check the hydraulic hoses but my guess is that they are not quick connects. At least the backhoe is on quick disconnect, but the two "clamps" are more often corroded and stuck than not. Ahrg...