Diesel idiot with G5200 fuel problem !! Help ?

[bevis]

Timing is changed by shims between injector pump and block mounting surface. I don't recall if adding shims retards or advances timing.

To eliminate coincidental problem take shaft apart again, may be difficult but then you will isolate or eliminate that system as a trouble spot.


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you are correct about the coupling separation but that will not eliminate the load placed on the motor from pulling the weight of the tractor and the load put on it by the HST during driving . But it will be a good for a static test.

Is this a good product ?
http://stanadyneadditives.com/injector-cleaner/

 

[CountryBumkin]

you are correct about the coupling separation but that will not eliminate the load placed on the motor from pulling the weight of the tractor and the load put on it by the HST during driving . But it will be a good for a static test.

Is this a good product ?
http://stanadyneadditives.com/injector-cleaner/

Any cleaner that comes in a bottle is only for preventative maintenance. It will not be strong enough to clean already dirty/clogged/worn injectors. Remember your mixing it in the fuel tank so it will be diluted. It won't hurt anything but also will not help in diagnosis.

If you eliminate all the other causes first and are left with injectors as the likely cause, then remove them and have them professionally tested and cleaned.

 

[bevis]

I now have all 3 manuals. The user / G5200 WSM and the D600 WSM. I now see a lot i didn't understand. I need to verify that the return system from the injectors is not plugged. I think that is going to be step 1.

It looks like something has been repaired on the return side as you can see from the pics. There is a non OEM piece of fuel line on the return back to the pump. Who know what has happened in the past. Maybe just a leak.

Also the schematic shows theres a valve on the bottom of the air filter housing but in the last pic i don't see a valve, just the filter inside. Anyone know if there is supposed to be a valve on the bottom of the air filter housing and its purpose ?

 

[Daren Todd]

The return system is easy to diagnose. Just disconnect it at the fuel tank. Stick the hose in a bucket. And if you have an electric fuel pump. Just turn the key on if it's a manual fuel pump, just start the tractor and check the jug. If it's filling with fuel, your good to go


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[bevis]

The return system is easy to diagnose. Just disconnect it at the fuel tank. Stick the hose in a bucket. And if you have an electric fuel pump. Just turn the key on if it's a manual fuel pump, just start the tractor and check the jug. If it's filling with fuel, your good to go


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its electric.
great idea.
thanks

 

[CountryBumkin]

That "valve" you're talking about on the bottom of the air cleaner is just a short rubber tube/snout that looks like a rubber tube with one end pinched closed. The pinched end is really open but it takes a little weight (i.e. some water or debris build up) to open the pinch and fall out.

 

[bevis]

Ok after some tbl shooting and removing the body ( wow, access finally ) i find that the pump is not working ( no voltage to it ). I go straight to the battery and pump and bypass work fine. I start looking for the fuse i see on the schematic. I find it blown. Put in a new fuse and start tractor. runs fine through the rpms. shut off tractor and fuse is blown again. now i need to hunt the short.

ok, would the feed pump not working cause all that black smoke and bogging ?

Also D600 WSM says no antifreeze in summer time. As it reads, it appears that its meant for winter. they specifically say run water. Im in Florida and its hotter than hades right now.

So I'm on a quest to find the short or whatever is pulling too much current. maybe a bad ground. I have a amp probe that reads DC amps so it should not be too bad to find.

also is it normal to hear a ticking sound during the idle ?
As rpm increases it disappears and best i can tell its coming from the front of the HST pump. I can wiggle the fiber joint back and forth when the motor is off and i can hear a click. is that normal or a sign of impending doom for the HST ? that tick is not coming from the joint. its coming from the front of the pump best i can tell.

 

[Cglaza]

I have the g6200 and when my fuel pump quit working it was doing allot of what you are describing. Check the amp draw of your pump. Might not be shorted, could be pulling to many amps. Inbox you get it going well your going to love that little tractor! Good luck!

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[Tooljunkie]

By running a new pair of wires and running same amp fuse will eliminate a wiring issue. Cheaper than slamming in a new pump and hoping for the best. Unless pump is inexpensive then start with that.
Hope you get it solved.

 

[bevis]

By running a new pair of wires and running same amp fuse will eliminate a wiring issue. Cheaper than slamming in a new pump and hoping for the best. Unless pump is inexpensive then start with that.
Hope you get it solved.

We are not talking about a pump wiring fuse or i would have already replaced the wiring. We are talking about a 10 amp main fuse that terminates on the AC terminal of the ignition switch. In that circuit are also the headlamps / fuel pump / oil pressure light and the hour & temp meter. Wish it was as simple as replacing the pump wiring. It very may well be the pump pulling more than 10 amps but i won't know until i put the amp probe on it so i can see exactly whats going on with it. I'll find the problem. I guess i might as well fix and paint the body while its off too.

 

[bevis]

Well so far i have not found the problem but the problem is gone so far.
I replaced the fuse and it blew once again. I then started chasing the wiring back and could not find anything amiss . I put in a new fuse and turned on the key. The fuel pump runs and pulls less than 2 amps. So blowing a 15 amp fuse is a problem somewhere in the wiring. I suppose that the pump could be intermittently shorting and blowing the fuse. It does make a ticking sound while running. I installed the temp gauge / hour meter i bought and started it up to check the meter operation which worked fine except that I'm missing the sending unit for the temp. I ran the motor, under the load of the PTO, for quite a while and it didn't seem to miss a beat. The pump pulled a max of 2.7 amps at wide open throttle. A reading at the main battery + terminal showed a max amp draw, while running, of 2.7 amps. That was before i installed the hour meter so it may go up a couple of 10ths. So the only real amp draw during the run is less than 3 amps. I'll test the amp draw when the starter is running and report it back.

Next step is to get the fender back on and put it under full load with the deck and the HST by mowing and see what happens.

 

[bevis]

I put the fender back on yesterday afternoon and mowed with it for about 30 to 45 mins. The temp, shot with a temp gun, was about 195 to 200 at the head / rad / water neck. Thats seems ok considering that the temp here was in the 90's. No bogging or smoking. The fuse did not blow. It seems that the biggest part of the problem was the fuel pump not running. Im going to pull the fender back off and repair / repaint it and the hood and run it till it drops.