Just got my L3901 this weekend and am loving it so far! I would like to know if I can use the front end loader to lift up my riding mower (Green x500) to clean the deck, change the blades, etc. I've tried searching for this topic, but surprisingly have found no info on it (lifting riding mowers with a fel). I don't want to spend $150-200 on a dedicated riding mower lift I can use my new $20k toy! Seems straight forward enough, but want to make sure it would be safe.
Front end loader uses
- Thread starter Timberlake580
- Start date
I use mine for anything it will lift! Just be smart and safe about it, and remember that most FEL's bleed down a bit so never rely on it staying in the air especially with a load on it. Imagination is your only limitation 
Here is me (on my tractor) helping my neighbor (on the ladder) load a new refrigerator in his RV/Bus through the side window-it wouldn't fit through the door! Sorry for the green picture, no offense meant
Here is me (on my tractor) helping my neighbor (on the ladder) load a new refrigerator in his RV/Bus through the side window-it wouldn't fit through the door! Sorry for the green picture, no offense meant
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I'd recommend something that you can place it on to be stable, like 48" clamp on bucket forks (found inexpensively on ebay w free shipping) or skid steer pallet forks. You could certainly block one side from moving and use to bucket to tilt the mower up enough to comfortably get under it and clean it.
IDK
IDK
The pallet forks look like a great idea. My first attachment is coming next week (rotary cutter), but I'll keep my eye out for other useful things. I think my first purchase (after the cutter) will be piranha front end blade. I have lots of brush and small trees to clear and I've noticed the bucket alone only can do so much. Thanks for the tips. I figure I can just lift up the mower and put some kind of blocks or jack stands under it for support. I need to also look into having hooks of some kind attached to the loader. I'm not a welder, so what are my options?
One more item to stuff into this post...does anyone have any experience unloading a gun safe from a pickup and moving to the house? THe safe I'm looking at is close to 800 pounds and would be significantly heavier than the fridge Kenny lifted. I'm still new to tractors and it just seems crazy heavy to lift with that loader! Of course, counter weight would play a factor, but thats another thing I'd like to tackle one of these days. Thanks everyone for the quick and helpful responses.
One more item to stuff into this post...does anyone have any experience unloading a gun safe from a pickup and moving to the house? THe safe I'm looking at is close to 800 pounds and would be significantly heavier than the fridge Kenny lifted. I'm still new to tractors and it just seems crazy heavy to lift with that loader! Of course, counter weight would play a factor, but thats another thing I'd like to tackle one of these days. Thanks everyone for the quick and helpful responses.
Timber, are you getting a quick attach setup for you loader? Most call it a SSQA (skid steer quick attach). Ask your dealer, and get it if at all possible, it will make changing the bucket to things like forks or a grapple effortless. The forks for me are used much more than my bucket nowadays.
PLEASE make sure you use rear ballast also!
As for hooks, please check your PM's...
PLEASE make sure you use rear ballast also!
As for hooks, please check your PM's...
Yes, it has the quick attach. I already had the dealer install a front valve for a grapple. That was going to be my FIRST purchase, but I need the cutter to tame my pasture before reseeding. What brand of grapple do you recommend?
The regular Bolt on Hooks should work well for you then.
The small Wicked Grapple from EA has great reviews and the price is decent. They have bigger ones as well but that's not always better.
The Titan brand has some mixed reviews, a lot of bad ones about the QA not fitting well and customers having to weld in shims to fix them, and in the pics I've seen , the welds are horrible looking. They are priced less for a reason, but some like them because of that and don't mind some work to get it right-I have a different opinion on that.
85Hokie
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The problem I had was how to hook the chain, I have raised three different types of riders to "get under" them to change the blades. Being careful while under was the hard part!
Here is a picture of me taking out the "trash" - a non runner that I needed to get to the trailer to haul off..............
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North Idaho Wolfman
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85Hokie
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BX-25D ,PTB. Under Armor, '90&'92-B7100HST's, '06 BX1850 FEL
That was good for a morning chuckle!
RIP JD!
hydraulic drive went out.......got it for free, engine was a pita to start....everything about became a PITA......so a guy offered me a cnote, and I said wth.........$ talks and the trash went on the trailer!!!
Daren Todd
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Thats one to forward to jdhydraulic drive went out.......got it for free, engine was a pita to start....everything about became a PITA......so a guy offered me a cnote, and I said wth.........$ talks and the trash went on the trailer!!!
neighbor works for them, and just came home with an 80 horse kubota with all the goodys.Your tractor probably does have the lift capacity to pick up that safe. I've moved two safes with a little help (pre tractor). A small 350 lb safe and a big 1100 lb safe. Both of them were laid down in the bed of a truck and then stood upright to move in the vertical position. If you have a pallet it's mounted to makes things a little bit easier. If you have a tilt trailer to load the safe on that would be preferred (closer to the ground and more stable). I would not recommend transporting a big safe vertically. And I would also definitely say you want the pallet forks to help lift that puppy. Then don't forget to fold your ROPS or if you go in a garage you'll be more concentrated on the front than the back. Cardboard is your friend to slide the safe in and out of the truck and for heaven's sake check your tailgate cables before you try putting that kind of load on the tailgate. Maybe even fabricate a sawhorse setup a little lower than your tailgate height (to compensate for the 800 lb load).
The only thing I see wrong with the picture is that the ROPS is folded while using the loader.
Anytime the loader is in use, that ROPS should be up and solid for safeties sake whenever possible.
Other than that, just looks like you're taking out the trash.
Anytime the loader is in use, that ROPS should be up and solid for safeties sake whenever possible.
Other than that, just looks like you're taking out the trash.