Working with fiberglass .... urghhh!

[mcmxi]

Sometimes you have to go backwards in order to go forwards. I've been trying to keep that front and center in my head this past week or so.

It's been decades since I worked with fiberglass, but about a week ago I started on another upgrade on my boat. For whatever reason, Robalo decided to recess the center section of the console dashboard (for want of a better word). This might be attractive to some but it limits the owner in terms of upgrading displays, gauges or other dash mounted electronics. I decided that I'd convert the console to a larger flat surface to offer more real estate for upgrades such as dual GPSMAP displays. This of course means that I'd need to fill the recessed center section.

Here's the console when I bought the boat.

The first step was to remove everything from the dash. I added a jack plate gauge and trim tab controller a while back, and those holes can be seen in the photo below. It was disappointing to see how little care was taken by Robalo when cutting the holes for the fuse panels/switches, guages, GPS and radio. The two holes I added were sized correctly and cut carefully with minimal clearance around whatever is installed. This is one of the problems with mass-produced, middle tier boats. There's little attention to detail, but I've never looked at a high-end boat so maybe it's not just the sub $100K market.

Step two was to grind off the gelcoat on both sides and bevel the holes on the backside to lock the layers on the front to the rear surface. The wood fillers are there in the photo taken from the front side because those holes don't need to be filled since new holes for a 10" GPSMAP and audio controller will eliminate them.

After partially filling in the holes that need to be filled from the backside, I began to add layers of CSM and Bi-axial mat on the front side to build up the center, and then added some layers across the entire console. The patchy appearance is due to my using an orbital sander to eliminate any surface imperfections that won't be easily fixed with fairing compound.

I'll use a colloidal filler/resin mix to fill up the holes from the backside then add a couple of layers of CFM. After that I'll apply layers of gel coat over the front and back sides once I'm happy with the flatness of both surfaces. The front surface is already flat enough but I'll be fine tuning it and might even add one more layer of CSM to improve the finish.

More to come.

 

[mcmxi]

In the spirit of full disclosure, I probably should have filled all the holes from the front side and then started to layer fiberglass mat and resin. Also, I'm not enjoying the process that much. Fiberglass is awful stuff, and once I'm done with this I hope that it's many years before I touch the stuff again.

 

[PHPaul]

Boat-building is big business here in Downeast Maine. There are a half-dozen shops within 20 miles of me, probably more if I took a census. Mostly building lobster boats, plus Hinckley over in Trenton/Bar Harbor builds yachts.

I worked briefly for one of the lobster boat guys, doing general maintenance around the plant. I HATED going to the layup shop, just the smell of that stuff aggravated me. I can't imagine dealing with the dust and fibers. You literally couldn't pay me enough.

 

[jaxs]

Oh, well,a-bless my soul,but what's wrong with me?
I'm itchin' like a man on a fuzzy tree.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

Kinda curious as to why you didn't just cut out the old 'face' or 'front' surface and then bond a flat sheet of FG as the new surface ?

 

[mcmxi]

Kinda curious as to why you didn't just cut out the old 'face' or 'front' surface and then bond a flat sheet of FG as the new surface ?

That's a great question. I thought of a number of approaches including something like that but was concerned about reducing the integrity of the console. My first idea was to cut a 3/16" sheet of aluminum, weld on studs, get it powdered coated white and bolt it through the console but that didn't seem elegant. My concern re any cutting out of a large section was whether or not the console would change shape once some of the rigidity was reduced? Also, I don't know if the end result would be as good compared to leaving as much of the existing console in place and building on that. It's all academic at this point since I'm way down the road with no intention of turning back.

I got the five round holes filled flush with the rear surface using a mix of resin and fumed silica. Once I've filled the two rectangular holes I'll apply two layers of CSM and then gel coat. I'm not looking for a mirror-like surface on the backside of the console, just a clean and tidy, factory looking finish. The new holes that I need will span many of the existing holes so I wanted a structurally sound surface to cut into to mount the new electronics.

With the additional layers of CSM and bi-axial mat on both sides, this console should or could be stronger than it was from the factory. It's not a structural component but I don't want the console flexing while under way.