Trailer Size for B2601

[paulprop14]

New to the site, and just bought a B2601 with FEL and 60" MMM. Very excited! I'm looking for a trailer to transport the tractor for service when needed. I know this topic has been addressed before, but here's my situation:

1. I'm only looking to move the trailer about 10 miles away, without the FEL or MMM. This puts the weight of the machine at ~1600 lbs. Total tractor length, not including 3PH, is 95".

2. I have a Jeep capable of a 5000 lb tow. I don't have a bigger truck, and don't plan on getting one.

That being said, is a single axle, 3500 lb GVAR trailer (6x10), ok for moving the tractor without the implements? I know a dual/tandem axle is ideal, but with a 6 x 10, we could conveniently use this size trailer for a bunch of other stuff (mulch, wood chips, firewood, compost, etc.). I prefer to stay smaller since we're only on a small property, which is why I got the B2601 and not the 2650 or L series.

Thanks all
PP

 

[Sparky73]

Welcome! I'm new here as well. Trailers were just discussed a couple of days ago in this thread:

http://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=35965

If you scroll down to post #7 on that thread, there is a pic of a BX on a 6x10 trailer to give you an idea. Personally, I wouldn't want to pull a B2601 on that small of a trailer even for short distances. With your tractor at 9.5' naked, it will essentially be centered, front to rear, on the entire trailer with very little tongue weight. This will result in it bouncing, up force on your hitch, and swaying which could easily throw your jeep around even at low speeds. You could probably get away with a little longer landscape style trailer but I think 6x10' is too small.

 

[paulprop14]

Thanks for the link. I guess it isn't a matter of the length (10' vs 12'), but rather single vs tandem axle. On our smaller lot, a single axle can be maneuvered by hand much easier, etc. Looks like some say single axle is ok, some say they wouldn't do it. With the B2601 and the trailer, my total tow weight would be just under 2500 lb, vs 3500 GVAR. But if the issue is the weight distribution, that's something I hadn't considered...

Does anyone here just have their dealer pickup their tractor for servicing? My dealer is literally a 15 min drive from the house. I'm sure it comes with a cost, but is it substantial? I'm on the road for work a lot, so there'd be a convenience factor w/having them pick up...

Thanks
PP

 

[Sparky73]

I think a single axle would be ok for your 10 mile infrequent trips as long as you were careful. Main issue I see is the weight distribution which could be solved with longer (maybe 6x12') single axle trailer.

One other thing to consider is trailer brakes which are required in most places for anything over 2k lbs. Again, you could likely get by without them if you're right around 2k lbs depending on your Jeep's ability to brake the load (based on model, weight, etc.) as long as you down have any major hills on the route and the road isn't slick.

If you need a trailer either way, I'd go with the slightly longer one and try it our with your tractor. Worst case is you have a nice landscaping trailer and have to have the dealer pick up your tractor for service.

 

[Charlie5320]

Most trailers are built with a 60% axle set back UNLESS it is a tilt trailer then most of them are 50/50. I have 5x10 tilt trailer with a 3500 lb axle and have hauled quite a few garden tractors with out any problems. If I needed to haul my 2670 for a few miles I wouldn't be afraid to do it with NO implements on it. I wouldn't take it out on the interstate and run 70 mph though. I bought the trailer to haul my golf car behind my motor home and it does that very well. I've also hauled a 250 gallon water tank on it several times.

 

[paulprop14]

Thank you both for your responses. I’ll talk to the trailer dealer tomorrow and see what their opinion is. I’ll also call my local Kubota dealer to see what they charge for pickup/dropoff service. Much appreciated.

 

[Egressman]

Thank you both for your responses. I’ll talk to the trailer dealer tomorrow and see what their opinion is. I’ll also call my local Kubota dealer to see what they charge for pickup/dropoff service. Much appreciated.

Please read this before you tow or buy a trailer!

http://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=36195&highlight=b2601

 

[skeets]

Paul if I may, doing service on your "B" is not majic, no matter what your dealer may have told you. Also if you were told that, by you doing the services would void your warranty they lied to you.
Doing the services on your tractor, has a 2 fold benefit
First and foremost you learn your machine! And this is very important if you want to use it to it's fullest capacity, no matter what your going to do with her. The more you know the better you will feel about your machine, trus old Dad on this one.
Second is of course MONEY! And when you do get a bill for the service make sure you have a bottle of tums. Now even you doing the services your self is not cheap by any means, but its a lot cheaper than the stealer,,,errr dealer. Service takes basic tools, some time, and if you use this board, well my friend you have just about all the knowledge in the world for your little beasty!
I have a friend that has his masters in EE, smart as a whip until you hand him a tool,, duhhhh whats that for?
We worked through his services, one time and he figures he saved himself 300 to 400 bucks each time.
All Im saying is that a trailer is a nice thing to have but if that is the only reason you want it, you would do better spending that money on some tools and a work shop manual.
Just MHO you understand

 

[eipo]

I don't think a tongue weight would be an issue. Pull the tractor on forward and you'll have the heaviest end on the front of the trailer. You may find better weight distribution by backing the tractor on as pulling on forward my put too much weight on the ball.

Most folks shy away from single axle trailers as opposed to double axle because more thought needs to go into tongue weight/balancing the load on the trailer. There are all kinds of horror stories you'll find on the net about single axle trailer failures... Almost all of them are due to improper loading.

Heres what you need to do, and you only need to do it once....

Hitch your single axle trailer up to your jeep, and pull the tractor on facing forward. Wait until your wife is away from the house and grab your bathroom scale. Place it under the jack and then lift the coupler of the trailer off the hitch ball so all the tongue weight is on the scale. You want to see a number that is 10-15% of the total trailer weight. I would figure the weight on a 10', single axle trailer made from angle iron right around 800 pounds. Add your tractor weight and multiply by .15 and see how close you are to your scale reading. If you need to take some weight off, you can move the tractor on the trailer to adjust weight. When you get to your 15% number, mark the trailer with something permanent so you always know where to place the tractor on the trailer.

You may find that proper weight distribution requires you to back the tractor on as the back may be lighter than the front.

Its certainly possible and can be done safely, you just need to do your own due diligence to make sure you do it safely.

 

[Jamiec]

I'm a new member here, I recently purchased a b2601 tlb myself, and had a hard time deciding on a trailer. I also purchased a 6.5x14 flat deck aluminum trailer for my limited transporting. Its only a single axle 5200lb with brakes. Should I be concerned now? BTW tracter hasn't been delivered as of this post. My dealer says it should be fine but I'll take real world opinions.

 

[Bmyers]

We are right at the edge of how far the dealer will go to pick up a tractor without a charge. The challenge is then we have to work around his schedule.

We purchased a trailer and I have just dropped mine off when I needed service or had the 3rd function valve installed. Plus, the trailer has allowed me to to take it from the farm to the house and do some work around the house.

So, for me, having a trailer was the better option.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

Any 5by10, single 3500# axled trailer will easily carry the B2601, though you'll have to try it both ways to see which way has the correct tongue weight for hauling. I would carry solid wood blocks to keep the rear of the trailer from moving down while loading/unloading. I'd also add Ebrakes, and backup lights.

 

[greg86z28]

You mention TLB. Add up all the weights of the tractor, loader, backhoe, any additional ballast weight, other implements or anything else you expect to have on the trailer. Add all those weights to the weight of the trailer (empty). It should not exceed your axle rating.

Second - what are you pulling it with? Make sure you understand the towing capacity and payload capacity of your tow vehicle.

If you can satisfy all the above requirements you're good to go!

 

[michigander]

seems like big load with a lot of tongue weight.

what you pulling it with ?

16' to 18' tandem steel seems like would be more ideal and same money ? maybe even cheaper ?

 

[Jamiec]

You mention TLB. Add up all the weights of the tractor, loader, backhoe, any additional ballast weight, other implements or anything else you expect to have on the trailer. Add all those weights to the weight of the trailer (empty). It should not exceed your axle rating.

Second - what are you pulling it with? Make sure you understand the towing capacity and payload capacity of your tow vehicle.

If you can satisfy all the above requirements you're good to go!

I should be good for my tow vehicle as I'm running a 2017 ram 4x4. The trailer has a dry weight of 770 lbs.

 

[Mjinpa]

I just got a B2601 tlb and I’m hauling it on a 7x16 tandem axle trailer. 14 ft is a bit short. With the machine pulled as far forward as possible on the trailer, the backhoe just has enough room to clear the gate when it’s closed. If I swing the backhoe to the side there’s obviously more clearance. So it’s gonna stick out the back on a 14.

 

[i7win7]

You should consider carrying spare tire and hydraulic jack for roadside flats. If you have a 2 axle trailer some 2x6 or 2x8 pieces of wood will allow your to pull good tire onto blocks, raising flat off the ground, faster than jacking. You will need a 3pt trailer mover accessory to move empty trailer for mowing, ect.

 

[Jamiec]

I just got a B2601 tlb and I’m hauling it on a 7x16 tandem axle trailer. 14 ft is a bit short. With the machine pulled as far forward as possible on the trailer, the backhoe just has enough room to clear the gate when it’s closed. If I swing the backhoe to the side there’s obviously more clearance. So it’s gonna stick out the back on a 14.

I did look at some 16 ft car trailers, my issue is I live in town right now, when I finish this house I'm off to the country where ill have more room for trailers. I think my neighbors hate me now with the 2 boats..lol

 

[GreensvilleJay]

re:
seems like big load with a lot of tongue weight.

what you pulling it with ?

16' to 18' tandem steel seems like would be more ideal and same money ? maybe even cheaper ?

The ORIGINAL poster says it weighs about 1600# and hauler's a Jeep..
there's no way that's a 'big load' and no need for a tandem trailer. I can haul 4000# all day with my SA5by8 trailer no problem.

 

[greg86z28]

I'll run the numbers since no one here has actually done that.

Estimated weights:
B2601 - 1632 lbs
FEL - 559 lbs
Bucket - 200 lbs
Backhoe - 750 lbs

Total tractor load - 3,141 lbs - assuming no other implements or ballast (like fluid filled tires).

Trailer weight is 770 lbs - add that to the tractor load. Grand total ~4000 lbs which is less than 5,200 lbs so your trailer can haul it.

Next is tongue weight. For 4000 lbs you want 10-15% tongue weight, let's assume 13%. That's 520 lbs. This means you need to position the tractor on the trailer so that it puts 520 lbs of weight on the truck. With a short trailer and limited space to maneuver you may struggle getting this right.

Next is your truck's capabilities. Look up your truck's payload capacity, should be a sticker on the drivers side door. This is the amount of weight you can put on your truck which includes, people, gear, tongue weight, etc. I have a base model F150 with few features - my payload is 2000 lbs. If your Ram is a high trim model, you'll be surprised how all those comfort features drastically reduce your payload capacity. Add up your body weight, passengers body weights and anything else in the truck or in the bed. Add to that the tongue weight. This total cannot exceed the payload capacity.

Next look at your trucks towing capacity. You might need to figure out if you have a tow package or not and what your truck can do. This is dependent on engine, gearing, cooling features (radiator, oil), among other items. Ram should have a chart which says what the truck can do based on engine, drive (4x4 vs 4x2), axle ratio, cab type and whether or not it has a tow package or not.

I'm assuming your situation will be fine, but the above methodology is the way to answer your question with the actual numbers/limits.

BTW congrats on the B2601. I just picked one up myself. Backhoe will be in sometime this month (July).