Top link question

forky

Well-known member

Equipment
L2501 HST 4X4 8N BB 1266 Box Blade RTR 1258 Tiller QH10 48" pallet fork s
Feb 23, 2021
298
321
63
Wisconsin
Picked up a nut from the dealer to snug against the nut on the top link to keep
it from creeping when running the tiller on a quick 10 hitch, however I can't
back the threaded portion all the way out to add the nut. I get to the end
and does not turn all the way out. What am I missing? I don't want to
force it and strip the threads on the end.

Thanks for any help
Forky
 

BX25D Rookie

Active member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
2011 BX 25LB-R (dirt work, snow, and brush hogging) & 2013 BX 2370 (mowing lawn)
Mar 21, 2019
173
170
43
upstate, NY USA
I have zero experience with a L 2501.

All of the OEM Kubota top links for my BX machines have multiple plastic plugs in the cylindrical steel tube. If I recall correctly, you remove the plastic plugs, and using a specific roll pin punch,
you drive out the roll pin and then you can remove the threaded rod end from the cylindrical steel tube.

But I have no idea if the L 2501 top link is the same.
I looked at the exploded view parts list for the L 2501, it appears you remove a screw to gain access for the driven in pin.
 
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BX25D Rookie

Active member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
2011 BX 25LB-R (dirt work, snow, and brush hogging) & 2013 BX 2370 (mowing lawn)
Mar 21, 2019
173
170
43
upstate, NY USA
My take on the OP post (post # 1) is that he wants to install an additional nut.
So he has the ability to "double nut" the top link adjustment so it cannot vibrate loose.
 
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forky

Well-known member

Equipment
L2501 HST 4X4 8N BB 1266 Box Blade RTR 1258 Tiller QH10 48" pallet fork s
Feb 23, 2021
298
321
63
Wisconsin
I have zero experience with a L 2501.

All of the OEM Kubota top links for my BX machines have multiple plastic plugs in the cylindrical steel tube. If I recall correctly, you remove the plastic plugs, and using a specific roll pin punch,
you drive out the roll pin and then you can remove the threaded rod end from the cylindrical steel tube.

But I have no idea if the L 2501 top link is the same.
I looked at the exploded view parts list for the L 2501, it appears you remove a screw to gain access for the driven in pin.
Thanks for the information, Rookie. I wondered what the purpose of the screws were for.
Makes sense that is how it works. Who would have thought that's how it works. Not me LOL!
 

BX25D Rookie

Active member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
2011 BX 25LB-R (dirt work, snow, and brush hogging) & 2013 BX 2370 (mowing lawn)
Mar 21, 2019
173
170
43
upstate, NY USA
I'm guessing here, the top link driven in pins are installed so the threaded rod ends cannot separate and
drop a three point implement.

I have WSM's (work shop manuals) for my machines, and significant experience as a former auto/truck technician, along with tool & die/model shop machining career experience.

I still go to the Kubota website frequently and look at the parts exploded views for my tractors.
Sometimes it helps understand how a particular tractor system operates, or how to take it apart for service/repairs. I suggest you become familiar with that process.

I was doing a recent BX restoration and just couldn't figure out how to remove the entire assembly for setting the mid mount mower adjustment height. Even after looking at the WSM and the Kubota website parts exploded views. However, I did find a YouTube video showing me exactly what I was attempting to do, right down to what size metric deep socket was required. YouTube is another option in the toolbox.

Do you have a WSM for your L 2501?
If not, download an electronic copy here for free!
I just checked, they have both, Owners/WSM.
I have owners manuals in electronic format on my smart phone for when I'm away from the computer.
 

forky

Well-known member

Equipment
L2501 HST 4X4 8N BB 1266 Box Blade RTR 1258 Tiller QH10 48" pallet fork s
Feb 23, 2021
298
321
63
Wisconsin
Thanks for the link to the WSM. I only have the owner's manual, and will check out
the provided link.