SVL95-2S Running Hot with Drum Mulcher (Tighten The Altenator/Fan Belt)

Mikestolarik

Member

Equipment
SVL95-2s, 080-3 Excavator , CASE D3 Track Loader
OVERHEATING DESCRIPTION:
Below is a great read but, I'm going to get right to the cure. Tighten the alternator/fan belt so tight that when you turn the fan with your had, the crank pulley also turns. If the crank pulley turns a little then stops, tighten the alternator belt a little more. I have had a number of folks try this and it is working for everyone. I also change the radiator cap to a 16lb to increase the boiling point of the antifreeze to 225 degrees. Good luck and stay safe.

Im running a Kubota SVL95-2S with high-flow Battle-Ax mulching head (carbide teeth) with an external Loftness dual fan cooler, Only while running the mulcher, the machine motor temperature continually increases until "Hot" warning sounds off (code: 9114). If I let it cool to where the temperature reading is in the middle of the gage and begin mulching; it only takes an average of four minutes eleven minutes to overheat and sound the E9114 alarm. Hydraulics stay a cool 175 degrees. The coolant is running around 237 degrees.
I email a letter to Kubota Corporation for help with the over heating problem. I received no reply (shameful).
If anyone would like to talk to me about this problem, please feel free to call me at 931-292-0145 (Three Oaks Property Management).

9/7/24: On 4/25/21, my problem began when I had a vegetation mulcher cooler attached to the machine. On 9/7/24 (3 years 5 months later) some progress was finally made. A man named Aaron Barnes noted that the Kubota SVL95 cooling fan pushes a massive amount of air, so much air that the fan pulley may slip on the belt. The hotter the engine compartment gets, the more it will slip. He instructed me to tighten the fan belt tight enough so when I rotated the fan with my hand, the motor crank shaft also turned (which was very tight). I did as instructed. I mulched yesterday. It was very dusty. The Kubota did not over heat. I will keep everyone posted.
Conclusion: My overheating problem was from the dealer nor me not performing a perticular performing a task not consistently each time the machine was worked on. I have not been able to find a Kubota procedure on how to tighten fan belts.

PREVIOUS NOTES:
The below items CAN cause the SVL95 to overheat:
  1. Assure that the fan belt is tightened whereas, if you rotate the fan with your hand, the motor crank pulley also turns. This seems to be very tight, but this seemed to be the resolution. I also installed a 16lb radiator cap. The factory 13lb cap tend to release pressure to early causing the antifreeze reservoir to spew antifreeze. I also replaced the factory antifreeze reservoir with a 2"x10" tube type with a screw in top.
  2. Radiator: between the fins must be kept clean. Every three months, fins should be cleaned with a product such as Nu-Brite A/C fin cleaner. Remove the radiator, lay flat on saw horses. Spray the top side with Nu-Brite until the Nu-Brite can be seen running out of the opposite side. Be generous with the Nu-Brite. When clean, you should be able to see a small amount of light between the fins. Remember the fins are in a Zig Zag pattern so you will not see "Full" light. Check for bent fins on the engine side of the radiator.
  3. Motor venting clean and clear. Including the lift arm vents. Remove the door behind the tracks (four bolts. Only the top two bolt will come out all the way.
  4. Radiator is full of Antifreeze.
  5. I changed my radiator cap to a 16lb cap it increase the bolding point.
  6. Injectors all tested and changed (running rich). Installed new injectors.
  7. Clogged hydraulic fluid filters.
  8. Dirty Air filter.
  9. DEF full, only use high grade.
Ancillary Checks:
  1. Does it over heat at 3/4 or full throttle.
  2. Try different high flow setting right side 1-14 and left side from 1-9.
  3. Check temp of mulchers hydraulic hoses. I'm using mulcher with external dual fan hydraulic cooler. (Both fans running). The the ambient air is 95 degrees the hydraulic lines 127-137 max degrees.
  4. A/C condenser clean and full light can shine through.
  5. The inside of the machine is spotless with no debris in the bottom or in the lift arm cooling stacks.
  6. Lift arm top openings not blocked.
Historical Information leading to the cure of my overheating problem:

6/26/24: Although this did not cure my problem, I have discovered that; even after installing the protection grid over the inside of the radiator, the radiator fins continue to be flattened by debris. The flattening of the fins stops air flow which causes over heating. I have found that every 4-5 months, I have to pull the radiator and straighten the fins and clean the radiator with Nu-Brite. I also run a 50/50 mixture of antifreeze and distilled water. It has been proven that distilled water dissipates heat better than tap water.

10/3/23: Over heating is still present although it occurs sooner. I discovered that I have gotten another piece of wood caught between the fan and the radiator. The piece of wood beat the radiator fins flat. I remove the radiator to straighten fins. Kubota sells a screen that prevents this from happening ($1000.00). I made my own out of 1/2 inch live stock wire. overheating problem still occurring.

7/23/22, Bent radiator fins straightened: I completed a full 10 hours of operation and the skidsteer did NOT overheat. Even though ambient temp was +90 degrees and a massive amount of dirt dust when mulching, the temp gage did not reach the 3/4 mark. This worked for about three months, then it began over heating again. Something changed! Side note, I had taken the fan off when I removed the radiator.

7/11/22, Although this did not help, while at Kubota dealer, a mechanic noticed that the fan orientation was not correct. It was put on backwards when they installed the hydraulic cooler. The end of the fan blade has an extension or what I call a teardrop on the outer-end of the blade. please a fan blade is at 12 o'clock. The teardrop should be facing the "1:00" position NOT the "11:00" position. Note: Just because a combustion engine's fan is on backwards, does NOT mean that the fan pushes air in the opposite direction. Either way, the fan will still suck air through the engine compartment and blow air OUT of the radiator.
6/30/22: I fabricated a fan that sucks in ambient air into the engine compartment. This did NOT help one bit. I also wired my A/C fan to pull hot air out of the engine compartment instead of sucking air in. This did NOT help one bit. I also pulled the inspection panels off that are located behind the tracks. This did NOT help one bit.

5/30/22: Kubota dealer said the radiator was clogged. Used the mulched the next day, the machine overheated within the same time frame. I pulled the radiator out of the machine that evening and found 1out of every 4 of the radiator fins bent over. Humm!. All fins were straightened and the radiator was cleaner with "New-Bite" again. Operated the next day, problem was still there.

5/21/21: As suggested by the first Kubota dealer; I transported my Skid Steer to a different Kubota dealer to see if they would have any better luck resolving this problem.

Update 5/18/22: The SS went back to Kubota because it's still overheating. As requested, this time I delivered it with the mulching head on it. The tech spent most of the day testing the machine. He began by rechecked the new injectors to assure that all four were running correctly. They were.
Kubota Corp thought that the DEF Re-gen system might be clogged. They forced a re-gen and confirmed that the system was running at the correct temp and was not clogged. He operated the machine with his computer hooked to the system and sitting in his lap. Any time the mulching head was running the engine coolant temp rose significantly. Shut the head off and the temp began to lower. With this, he checked the engine and exhaust temps. He noted that the all engine and exhaust temps never increased enough to affect the coolant temp. This has lead him to believe that there could be a restriction somewhere in the hydraulic system. I'll have another update as soon as I know something. Flow test preformed, hydraulics flow as supposed to.

5/12/22: Took the machine to the Kubota dealer. On 5/2/22. motor still not throwing any codes. Motor is using 1/2 quart of oil every 300 hours. Kubota mechanic says that it normal usage. Mechanic checked port after the turbo to check for "oil burn". Turbo ports are clean with no residue.
After long deliberation, Kobota decided to send the injectors out to be tested. Three injectors were pushing too much diesel and failed the POP test.. Kubota warrantied all 4 injectors (zero cost for the repair).
***Mulched with the machine today: After 1/2 hour mulching, the machine is still overheating. Called
Kubota dealer, they said; tomorrow (5/13/22) they are going to set a conference call with Kubota to discuss the problem.

5/22/22: Kubota suggested setting the high flow settings from right side 14 left side 9 to 12-8 respectively. Machine still overheated.

5/12/22: To eliminate the hydraulic system as the problem. I jumped the fans in the Loftness hydraulic cooler that is mounted on the top of the machine. When the fans are on (all the time), the hydraulic system is running at 125 degrees, and the motor still gets hot.

Update: 4/25/22: Changed the thermostat and both belts. Machine continues to run hot while running the mulcher. The longer I use the machine the hotter it gets.



Thanks for your help
Mike
 
Last edited:

mattwithcats

Active member
Jun 17, 2017
776
66
28
Virginia
Check temperature of upper and lower radiator hose, top and bottom of radiator.

Careful, they are hot enough to burn you, and watch the fan!

The bottom one should be hot, the top warm.

If not, I suspect water pump first, then radiator second…
 

Mikestolarik

Member

Equipment
SVL95-2s, 080-3 Excavator , CASE D3 Track Loader
Check temperature of upper and lower radiator hose, top and bottom of radiator.

Careful, they are hot enough to burn you, and watch the fan!

The bottom one should be hot, the top warm.

If not, I suspect water pump first, then radiator second…
Great suggestion I didn’t think to do that, thanks.
And you are very correct, once I had a car where the impeller on the water pump began to slip, causing it to run a little hot.
 

GreensvilleJay

Well-known member

Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
Apr 2, 2019
10,967
4,669
113
Greensville,Ontario,Canada
OK, I know, silly question but...
as the fan's pulling lots of air in..where ,does it go afterwards ?
Could dirt/mud/?? plug up the exit holes in the 'armour' ??
 

Mikestolarik

Member

Equipment
SVL95-2s, 080-3 Excavator , CASE D3 Track Loader
OK, I know, silly question but...
as the fan's pulling lots of air in..where ,does it go afterwards ?
Could dirt/mud/?? plug up the exit holes in the 'armour' ??
That’s is a good question. I cleaned inside the belly and cleaned out the inspection covers at the rear of the tracks about four weeks ago, but the holes could be blocked already. It’s supposed to rain here Monday so, I’ll open them up and check them
Thanks
 

Mikestolarik

Member

Equipment
SVL95-2s, 080-3 Excavator , CASE D3 Track Loader
Is this the light that is coming on?
No sir, it’s the light picturing the motor cylinder with the thermometer next to it. (Attached). when running the machine for a long period of time the warning beeps three times, then the temperature light flashes two or three times, then it shut off for five or 10 minutes and then repeats
 

Attachments

rentthis

Active member
Lifetime Member
May 30, 2012
1,007
24
38
summerville,sc
If your fan belt is glazed, it might heat up in a couple of hours and slip enough to heat the engine. This is way to simple to be the problem but simple is good.
 

Mikestolarik

Member

Equipment
SVL95-2s, 080-3 Excavator , CASE D3 Track Loader
That’s is a good question. I cleaned inside the belly and cleaned out the inspection covers at the rear of the tracks about four weeks ago, but the holes could be blocked already. It’s supposed to rain here Monday so, I’ll open them up and check them
Thanks
I inspected the air exhaust cavities and they were somewhat full. I cleaned them out really good, but it is still getting hot a few hours of running. I discovered that if you use a “mulcher”, the air exhaust cavities can become somewhat full after 10-12 hours of operations. Although cleaning them didn’t solve my problem, I will be cleaning them after every mulching job.
Thanks for the good idea.
 

Mikestolarik

Member

Equipment
SVL95-2s, 080-3 Excavator , CASE D3 Track Loader
Check temperature of upper and lower radiator hose, top and bottom of radiator.

Careful, they are hot enough to burn you, and watch the fan!

The bottom one should be hot, the top warm.

If not, I suspect water pump first, then radiator second…
Temps are :
Top- 96 to 140 degrees
Bottom- 85-89 degrees
When over heating: the top hose is 225 degrees, bottom hose 189 degrees.
Appears that the high temp is coming from motors internal workings.
 
Last edited:

Mikestolarik

Member

Equipment
SVL95-2s, 080-3 Excavator , CASE D3 Track Loader
G

That’s a good idea to check. It squeals for about 5-7 seconds when I start it up. I’ll change it. and post the result
I changed the belt and the thermostat. set belt to manufacture specs. Tried turn fan with hand and was tight but not tight enough to have premature wear on water pump bearing.
Problem is still present.
 

Mikestolarik

Member

Equipment
SVL95-2s, 080-3 Excavator , CASE D3 Track Loader
That’s is a good question. I cleaned inside the belly and cleaned out the inspection covers at the rear of the tracks about four weeks ago, but the holes could be blocked already. It’s supposed to rain here Monday so, I’ll open them up and check them
Thanks
5/12/22: I'm keeping the air ports clean and free fro debris. Problem still present.
 

lugbolt

Well-known member

Equipment
ZG127S-54
Oct 15, 2015
5,119
1,804
113
Mid, South, USA
any leaks? Coolant ever low? Do you have to add any at any time?

Next thing to look at. Engine cold in the morning take the radiator cap off. Start the engine. Go back to the radiator while the engine is idling. Any bubbles will indicate a leaking head gasket or cracked head or both. Or maybe the head bolts aren't proper....was a bulletin for that on some of them as I remember.
 

Mikestolarik

Member

Equipment
SVL95-2s, 080-3 Excavator , CASE D3 Track Loader
any leaks? Coolant ever low? Do you have to add any at any time?

Next thing to look at. Engine cold in the morning take the radiator cap off. Start the engine. Go back to the radiator while the engine is idling. Any bubbles will indicate a leaking head gasket or cracked head or both. Or maybe the head bolts aren't proper....was a bulletin for that on some of them as I remember.
Hi, nope, no leaks anywhere.
I haven’t checked the radiator for small bubbles. I’ll do that tomorrow morning.