Separating a Kubota L35 - Pulling Engine

[Arkansas]

Hey guys, could use some more advice.

If you will notice the pictures of the frame bolts on this thread

- I have hoisted the engine
- Stud bolts are removed
- Front frame bolts are all removed
- Removed the rear frame bolts (the four bolts inside the orange paint)
- There were two bolts on the engine that looked like it was helping hold it against the clutch housing - I have removed those too

I cannot get the front of the tractor to separate from the engine. I have it supposed on a wheeled jack. I have disconnected everything that I know. I had multiple guys tugging on the front last night and it will not come free from the engine. Obviously I need to slide the front of the tractor free so I can then slide the engine forward off the clutch and then lift it out.

After removing the studs, the front remaining six bolts, the rear eight bolts (ones in orange), and two bolts on top of the clutch housing that looked like it was holding it to the engine block, I have done all I can see to do.

Any advice? Anyone know what I am missing?

 

[100 td]

Have you had a squiz at the illustrated parts layout, you may pick up what's holding it up?
https://www.kubotausa.com/parts

 

[Arkansas]

Have you had a squiz at the illustrated parts layout, you may pick up what's holding it up?
https://www.kubotausa.com/parts

Good suggestion. Yes, I have looked at it but it won't hurt to give it another look. Best I can tell, I am either missing some connection or the metal frame and metal side of the engine block are stuck together.

 

[jimmyjoe]

Before you do anything else get rid of those CONCRETE BLOCKS.

 

[Arkansas]

Before you do anything else get rid of those CONCRETE BLOCKS.

I'm all ears JimmyJoe. I was using the concrete block/wood to help support the tractor once I separate it. I also have a couple jack stands helping. Is there a specific issue I should know about when using the concrete block?

 

[Arkansas]

On many machines Kubota used very strong adhesive/sealant between mating surfaces of major iron parts. I'd try using a tapered steel chisel-type tool at the seam to see if it will let go. Good luck, Dick B.

Thanks Dick...I will give this a try.

 

[rbargeron]

Do you have this parts drawing? I deleted my earlier post - doesn't look like there's a glued seam on this front frame.

There may be two more bolts hidden behind the "rear frame bolts" in your middle picture ?

 

[D2Cat]

I'm all ears JimmyJoe. I was using the concrete block/wood to help support the tractor once I separate it. I also have a couple jack stands helping. Is there a specific issue I should know about when using the concrete block?

The use of concrete blocks is a NO NO. Use solid wood, like oak or other hardwoods. That block will crumble and cause damage to your tractor and/or you. Not safe!

Might do a search of something like "safe cribbing" for ideas on how to cross the wood for stability.

 

[Arkansas]

Do you have this parts drawing? I deleted my earlier post - doesn't look like there's a glued seam on this front frame.

There may be two more bolts hidden behind the "rear frame bolts" in your middle picture ?

I think you are right. As was suggested in an early comment, I went back and started looking through the parts drawings and I noticed the same thing you did. On the 'driver side' of the frame it looks like there are two more bolts behind the 'rear frame bolts' that need to come out.

The fact that you noticed this too gives me some confidence that we might have found the issue. I'll try and remove those two bolts tonight and see what happens.

In the meantime, I'll see if I can replace the concrete block with something a little better.

Thanks for your thoughts...it is really helpful.

 

[rbargeron]

Sorry to be a PITA but the bolting to the engine is symetrical at that location - there's the same group of six holes on the other side too. (for 10 bolts 020, 2 studs 090).

Not sure how to get access with the loader in place. If you have a model TL720 (see attached) it's pretty heavily attached.

Do you have the L35 WSM? It may say the loader has to go to separate the machine. My L48 has a 1200 lb under-frame that has to go to separate it.

Best luck - I'll be rooting for you. Take care, Dick B.

 

[Billssa]

Hey guys, could use some more advice.

If you will notice the pictures of the frame bolts on this thread

- I have hoisted the engine
- Stud bolts are removed
- Front frame bolts are all removed
- Removed the rear frame bolts (the four bolts inside the orange paint)
- There were two bolts on the engine that looked like it was helping hold it against the clutch housing - I have removed those too

I cannot get the front of the tractor to separate from the engine. I have it supposed on a wheeled jack. I have disconnected everything that I know. I had multiple guys tugging on the front last night and it will not come free from the engine. Obviously I need to slide the front of the tractor free so I can then slide the engine forward off the clutch and then lift it out.

After removing the studs, the front remaining six bolts, the rear eight bolts (ones in orange), and two bolts on top of the clutch housing that looked like it was holding it to the engine block, I have done all I can see to do.

Any advice? Anyone know what I am missing?

Hello, need to rebuild my engine. is this a project that I could do myself with a shop repair manual. Time is not that important. What would a l35 be worth with bad motor

 

[Fluke216]

Hello, need to rebuild my engine. is this a project that I could do myself with a shop repair manual. Time is not that important. What would a l35 be worth with bad motor

what did yo end up doing.

 

[whitetiger]

what did yo end up doing.

Billssa has not been on this site in over 13 months now.