The past couple times I have used my RGR1258 tiller, I have noticed the gear oil looked milky white. The first time I noticed it, I removed the plate to the gear case and cleaned out the milky oil and put fresh oil in. I used it to till my garden. Then about a month later I noticed it looked milky again. So I opened the gear case again and it was, in fact, milky white. I cleaned it out again and replaced with fresh oil. I checked the rubber gasket between the cover and the body of the gear case and found it to be in good shape. I removed the vent plug and thought maybe moisture is getting in there. I also noticed after using the tiller, gear oil runs out of the vent plug hole. I only put the required 3 qts / 6 pints in there. So I know it doesn’t have too much oil in it. At first I put thread tape but then removed it because that would defeat the purpose of the vent plug. So I am curious, is there a liquid sealant I can put on to keep this from happening or is this just part of it?
RGR1258 Tiller Vent Plug
- Thread starter jeremyzcook82
- Start date
Runs With Scissors
Well-known member
Equipment
L2501 TLB , Grappel, Brush Hog, Box Blade, Ballast box, Forks, Tiller, PH digger
Where is it stored? I
Inside or outside?
I was originally thinking that condensation was your problem, but I have a difficult time believing that much condensation would form in one month.
But I suppose Georgia is a lot more humid than Michigan is.
I am just "spit ballin" here, are you sure your putting the gear oil in the right place?
Gear BOX is 2 pints.
Gear CASE is 6 pints.
Just an observation.....
Inside or outside?
I was originally thinking that condensation was your problem, but I have a difficult time believing that much condensation would form in one month.
But I suppose Georgia is a lot more humid than Michigan is.
I am just "spit ballin" here, are you sure your putting the gear oil in the right place?
Gear BOX is 2 pints.
Gear CASE is 6 pints.
Just an observation.....
It is stored outside. Yes, I am putting the 6 pints / 3 qts in the gear case. The one that is on the side of the tiller, not the gear box on top. I just can’t believe there isn’t a better solution than what I have heard from others which is “just change your oil after use”. That to me sounds like a waste. There has to be a solution to keep water out. Could it be a bag vent plug? Also, why would oil be leaking out from where the vent plug is when I am using the tiller? It isn’t over full
Great way to destroy equipment. If you want your stuff to last find a spot indoors to park it. Building a mouse condo with plastic wraps doesn't solve the moisture problem storing outside.
Runs With Scissors
Well-known member
Equipment
L2501 TLB , Grappel, Brush Hog, Box Blade, Ballast box, Forks, Tiller, PH digger
Here is another "thought".
Are you sure you are draining out all 6 pints?
I had a situation about 2 years ago when I bought my "oil sucker".
I used it on my wifes minivan and I sucked out all the oil first through the dipstick tube, then dumped it out.
Then I unscrewed the filter cap and replaced the filter.
However when I went to refill it, I could only put 5 quarts in before the fill mark on the dipstick was reached.
Hmmmmm.......Thats odd, I would have bet my life that it took 6 quarts..........
Long story short.....I called my BIL, and he told me that by not draining it out the bottom, a "Vacuum" develops in that engine, and 1 full quart is trapped.
Instead, he informed me that I need to take the filter cap off FIRST, then suck out the oil to get all 6 quarts out.
He was right.
Maybe something similar is happening to you, and you are leaving some in, and accidently overfilling it?
Just a hypothesis.
EDIT: The above scenario would also explain why the oil gets "milky" right away. Cause there would always be some "milky" oil in it, contaminating the new oil.
Are you sure you are draining out all 6 pints?
I had a situation about 2 years ago when I bought my "oil sucker".
I used it on my wifes minivan and I sucked out all the oil first through the dipstick tube, then dumped it out.
Then I unscrewed the filter cap and replaced the filter.
However when I went to refill it, I could only put 5 quarts in before the fill mark on the dipstick was reached.
Hmmmmm.......Thats odd, I would have bet my life that it took 6 quarts..........
Long story short.....I called my BIL, and he told me that by not draining it out the bottom, a "Vacuum" develops in that engine, and 1 full quart is trapped.
Instead, he informed me that I need to take the filter cap off FIRST, then suck out the oil to get all 6 quarts out.
He was right.
Maybe something similar is happening to you, and you are leaving some in, and accidently overfilling it?
Just a hypothesis.
EDIT: The above scenario would also explain why the oil gets "milky" right away. Cause there would always be some "milky" oil in it, contaminating the new oil.
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Mine doesn’t have a drain plug on it. It only has the fill plug/vent plug up top. It has a site window on the side of the cover. So in order to drain it I have to remove the whole gear case front plate. So yes, it is completely drained and I wipe it down to make sure all the milky gear oil is gone before I replaced the cover and refill it.
GreensvilleJay
Well-known member
Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
re: Great way to destroy equipment.
Not always true. My tiller's been outside for 16-17 years and still a 9 out of 10 ( -1 from USING it ! ). The rear blade was 60 years old, 3 furrow plow almost 70. All 4 tractors from late 50s, all function great.
Older farm equipment was built to last( real paint, thicker tin,etc.)
As for the vent,if your add 2 'street elbows' to form an upside down 'U', that will prevent rain water from getting in.
Not always true. My tiller's been outside for 16-17 years and still a 9 out of 10 ( -1 from USING it ! ). The rear blade was 60 years old, 3 furrow plow almost 70. All 4 tractors from late 50s, all function great.
Older farm equipment was built to last( real paint, thicker tin,etc.)
As for the vent,if your add 2 'street elbows' to form an upside down 'U', that will prevent rain water from getting in.
Yes, I should probably build something to store my equipment in. I wouldn’t wanna keep it like the dealership does for years sitting outside on their sales lot. Ha ha. I guess it’s fine for them. Anyways, I still don’t understand how the vent plug is causing all the moisture to get inside the tiller. It seems like not a great design.
Yours has been the first helpful comment. Thank you very much for the advice. What kind of pipe? And will I have to put anything on the threads or just screw them in to the top where the vent plug goes?
Have you looked at the gasket and shaft seal at the upper input shaft bearing? Either of those could be a source of water ingress. Condensation is not a likely cause of that much moisture in your oil. Also what kind of gear oil are you using and I assume you checking it before use?
What the heck you got your ole lady driving that aint got a drain plug?
I checked the gasket but not the shaft seal. I use the recommended oil from the manual, 80-90. Yes I check the sight glass before each use. If it looks milky I don’t run it until I swap out. I called land pride and they said with the metal vent plug, I should be fine putting thread tape on the threads.
Russell King
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
There are many different types of vent plugs and some are more weatherproof than others. You could try to change it to something like this (shown below) that is the correct size or just put a plastic or metal shield over yours when it is sitting around (think butter tub or bucket whatever fits best)
Runs With Scissors
Well-known member
Equipment
L2501 TLB , Grappel, Brush Hog, Box Blade, Ballast box, Forks, Tiller, PH digger
Oh it's got a drain plug for sure, but since I bought that "oil sucker" for the boat, I have become even more lazy, and found "other uses" for it.
Like these motors with the "cartridge" type filters, that are accessible from the top.
Now I don't even have to put it on the hoist......Just pop the hood, swap out filters, suck out the oil, refill it and go.
Takes about 4 minutes to change the oil....Hell, I do it when she stops to 'drop off the groceries' between shopping runs now..
It's "stupid-fast and easy"
