Replacing Bearings on BX2751 Quick Hitch

[patrickkiddak]

I bought a used BX2751 quick hitch and at least one of the bearings needs to be replaced. And there may be an additional bearing stuck to it and PTO linkage may be used on to the shaft? I removed the grub screws on the bearings but can't get them off. Should I just order the extra bearings then take the whole to a gear shop to have them clean it up instead of messing monkeying with it? Thanks!

 

[biketopia]

Did you pull the set screws out of each collar on the pillow blocks? There may be two on each, if so, you're just going to have to find a way to tap on things to get them to slide off the shaft, or get the shaft moving, they're a pretty snug fit when fresh and clean, years of dirt and rust makes the slip fit, interference fit real quick.

 

[DustyRusty]

That is why you should have a press in your garage, and not the one that is used to print on paper. Lacking the proper tools you are SOL (if I am allowed to use that expression).

 

[GreensvilleJay]

Those bearings may be 'locking' or 'eccentric' bearings. You remove the setscrews, then rotate the ring CW or CCW, I forget, to release it from the shaft. They do that to set the distance then end of the shaft is from the bearing mount. The critical dimension will be listed in the installation sheet....

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

They are locking collars, there is a second dimple in them that you use a punch on to release the collar.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

THAT's them ! Lightly tap with a small punch cause 1st direction you go, you'll tighten it even more so go the other way .... I 'think' CCW to loosen ?
I found removing the setscrew helped,squirt of 'oil' in the hole.

 

[lynnmor]

The lock collars are to be tightened in the direction of the shaft rotation, in this case they might be tightened in either direction.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

THAT explains why I've had 'fun' in previous encounters with them ! Unless you KNOW which way the shaft rotates AND that the installer turned them the correct way, you have a 50-50 chance of loosening them the 1st time. Me, I have a 100% chance of TIGHTENING them even more ! Yup, Mr. Murphy follows me around.....

 

[DustyRusty]

It's good you rid yourself of Mrs. Murphy before she bumped you off!

 

[Dustball]

The bearings on this particular one is not a locking collar type.

70060-02699

The issue with this type is that sometimes a raised ring will form on the shaft where the set screws are tightened which may make it difficult to extract the shaft from the bearing.

 

[DustyRusty]

Looking at the picture, the rust alone on the shaft will prevent it from sliding off. I would spray it down with penetrating oil and using a strip of abrasive cloth polish the shaft down to bare metal. Just had to do this to a cylinder that rusted when I left the dump body up over the winter so snow and rain didn't rust out the dump body floor.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

The bearings on this particular one is not a locking collar type.

70060-02699

View attachment 132696

The issue with this type is that sometimes a raised ring will form on the shaft where the set screws are tightened which may make it difficult to extract the shaft from the bearing.

Where did you get your information?
That's not the bearing on that quick hitch!

The bearing for that model is:
70060-00925
And it does have locking collar

 

[Dustball]

Where did you get your information?
That's not the bearing on that quick hitch!

The bearing for that model is:
70060-00925
And it does have locking collar

View attachment 132728

View attachment 132729

It's blatantly obvious that you're wrong when you look at the bearings in the OP's picture.

The bearing you're showing is an insert and requires flanges.

How can you say that I'm wrong when the OP's picture is so obvious.

This is what the OP has.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

when the snowblower kerfuffle was mounting up page after page, I recall seeing that the bearings LOCKED the shaft at a certain distance, which made sense to me,long long time ago. The Ujoint could slide a bit on the splines , as required though.
For sure the shaft has to be 'shiny and smooth'. The 'burr' from the setscrews can 'bind' up as well.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

It's blatantly obvious that you're wrong when you look at the bearings in the OP's picture.

The bearing you're showing is an insert and requires flanges.
View attachment 132734
View attachment 132735

How can you say that I'm wrong when the OP's picture is so obvious.

This is what the OP has.

View attachment 132736

Yep your right I missed that detail when I looked at 2 sets of prints with 2 different serial number breaks and 2 different prints.

Thanks for being so nice and polite in pointing out my mistake.

 

[BAP]

Yep your right I missed that detail when I looked at 2 sets of prints with 2 different serial number breaks and 2 different prints.

Thanks for being so nice and polite in pointing out my mistake.

Too many people don’t know how to be polite anymore, particularly when hiding behind a keyboard.

 

[Dustball]

Too many people don’t know how to be polite anymore, particularly when hiding behind a keyboard.

"Where did you get your information?
That's not the bearing on that quick hitch! "

This is not the first time he's attacked one of my replies unprovoked. I'll leave it at that.

 

[DustyRusty]

One needs to have a thick hide and a strong sense of personal identity to post on a forum where others can be critical of your post. If someone posts incorrect information (not saying that this thread has any incorrect information) it is up to those that recognize the mistake to correct the information for the historical record of those that come to the forums and search for answers from previous posts. We are all human (or so I believe) and subject to making mistakes.
I can see where both people could be correct on how the bearing is held in place if there was an update to the hitch in production. I remember a time when I was rebuilding a transmission and following the factory service manual page by page just to make certain that I didn't mess up. I found that there had been an upgrade to the transmission during the time between when the manual was printed and the transmission was manufactured. I found the update in the parts manual that gave a serial number break for the old design and the updated design. An experienced transmission rebuilder wouldn't have even given it a second thought, but to me, the inexperienced person doing the job, it was a learning experience.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

"Where did you get your information?
That's not the bearing on that quick hitch! "

This is not the first time he's attacked one of my replies unprovoked. I'll leave it at that.

Well I took the time to go back and look in your 211 posts to find my first "Unprovoked attack" on you.
I don't think asking you if you can't read a thread title an attack.
Sounds like someone needs a vacation.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

curious, so I found the snowblower 4 point hitch manual and it uses the same bearings(same part number ). There are TWO setscrews (@ 90* ) used to secure the shaft to the bearing. I'm wondering if the OP hasn't removed BOTH of the setscrews on EACH bearing ? If he has , a solid 'tap' to move the shaft ,in and out may free it up a bit from the bearings.
It'd be nice to see IF what ever is on the right side ( front ?) of the hitch could be removed. I assume a U-jointed shaft to snowblower box ?