Rear Hydraulics

[JasonW]

Needing some input/guidance on rear hydraulics if there is anything I may be overlooking.

I currently have one rear remote on my M6040 that I use with a hydraulic top link.
I just purchased a rear blade with hydraulic tilt and angle adjustments. Also purchased a box blade with hydraulic scarifiers.

So either way I will need more rear remotes. Dealer I purchased the rear blade from said each additional remote was $1,500 for my tractor. I can stack up to three on my model. Will definitely be shopping around price wise if I go this route.

Would I be better off adding two additional factory remotes or going with a hydraulic multiplier running off my current remote? Looking at the Summit hydraulic multiplier kits.

What other implements are there that would need multiple remotes that wouldn’t work with just a hydraulic multiplier?

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Even if you spend the money for the factory valves, you still may end up needing a multiplier anyway.
A good chance that before your done you will add a hydraulic side link for the 3pt hitch for box blade use as well as an offset cylinder for the rear blade.

A multiplier is without a doubt the cleanest least costly way to get more sets of couplers to use.

Get a control grip for your rear control lever that has all the switches in it. That way you have full control of all the hydraulic outlets without ever moving your hand back and forth changing switches.

I have added 3 diverters to my smaller tractor for a total of 4 sets of couplers and 2 diverters to my larger tractor for a total of 5 sets of couplers.

When you start using hydraulics to make adjustments, you can never have enough.

 

[wsurff]

I have a Summit 2x multiplier on my L6060. Works well. Sounds like you may need a 3x multiplier for your needs.

 

[JasonW]

Yes I’m leaning towards the summit 4 circuit multiplier. Just didn’t want to have to buy twice if it will not work some implements that I don’t know I have to have yet.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

A multiplier will work any implement that your existing control valve works. The only difference is unless you get maintained switches (not recommended for a control grip) you might as well forget about the self-cancelling portion of your current valve.

To emphasize, they will work for any purpose that the existing valve & couplers will connect to. The only difference is if you have maintained or momentary switches. You would need a maintained switch to take advantage of the self-canceling feature of your current control valve.

 

[JasonW]

Yes I Believe the factory valve is self canceling detent. I’ve used a pull type disc and I believe that feature worked then but it doesn’t work with my hydraulic top link.

I believe the summit setup uses maintained switches, although if I go with their kit I might use different switches depending how big their switch box is.

 

[JohnDB]

...
I just purchased a rear blade with hydraulic tilt and angle adjustments. Also purchased a box blade with hydraulic scarifiers.
...
Would I be better off adding two additional factory remotes or going with a hydraulic multiplier running off my current remote?

I've never used a hydraulic multiplier so perhaps MtnViewRanch and wsurff can put me right here: if you need to actuate different cylinders - for example adjusting the tilt and angle on your rear blade while operating - I got the impression that it takes extra actions (switching the multiplier between cylinders, then operating the spool valve) to do that compared to having a spool valve for each (or even better, a joystick for the both)?

Yes cost may be a disadvantage, and maybe there are circuit or space limitations on your options too (don't know your model of tractor), but would useability be a consideration?

 

[McMXi]

I've never used a hydraulic multiplier so perhaps MtnViewRanch and wsurff can put me right here: if you need to actuate different cylinders - for example adjusting the tilt and angle on your rear blade while operating - I got the impression that it takes extra actions (switching the multiplier between cylinders, then operating the spool valve) to do that compared to having a spool valve for each (or even better, a joystick for the both)?

Yes cost may be a disadvantage, and maybe there are circuit or space limitations on your options too (don't know your model of tractor), but would useability be a consideration?

@MtnViewRanch was helpful with my understanding of how these diverters work which to me is a better description than multiplier. You're correct that you have to energize a solenoid on the diverter in order to open up that circuit so that you can adjust the cylinder on that circuit.

Based on @MtnViewRanch's recommendation I ordered an X Series control grip from Scorpion with four buttons that attaches to one of the rear remote control levers in the cab. The buttons are momentary so you push a button and move the lever to activate the cylinder associated with the solenoid controlled by that particular button.

Scorpion X Series control handle with up to four faceplate buttons.

Scorpion X Series control handle with up to four faceplate buttons. Single or double trigger, long life snap action, field replaceable switches, many other options.

www.controlgrips.com

 

[McMXi]

Yes I Believe the factory valve is self canceling detent. I’ve used a pull type disc and I believe that feature worked then but it doesn’t work with my hydraulic top link.

I believe the summit setup uses maintained switches, although if I go with their kit I might use different switches depending how big their switch box is.

I have three sets or rear remotes on both tractors, but ideally would have four. One of the three remotes in the MX is a float detent (FD) and two in the M6060 are float detent type (FD). If you plan on running any equipment that needs float then you'll need to add another rear remote. I use float when running the folding cutter, the flail and the snow blower.

The Scorpion control grips are probably the nicest way to add control of multiple circuits although the switch box that ships with the Summit kits looks decent, just not as ergonomic as momentary buttons on the grip on the control lever.