Pinhole leak in metal hydraulic line

PoTreeBoy

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Another option is to use a compression to JIC adapter, then have a new hose made with a long 90° JIC fitting on the end.
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TheOldHokie

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Another option is to use a compression to JIC adapter, then have a new hose made with a long 90° JIC fitting on the end.
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I like that idea a lot 😍

Just cut the end off the existing hose and crimp on the new one. Any hydraulic shop can do that.


These convert-a-flare tube nuts, sleeves, and a plain JIC tube union are much less expensive than the male JIC compression fitting. I use all of those bits a lot and have them on hand. In addition to being a lot less expensive they allow you to skip dash sizes - e.g put a -08 end on a -06 tube.




Dan
 
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PoTreeBoy

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I like that idea a lot 😍

Just cut the end off the existing hose and crimp on the new one. Any hydraulic shop can do that.


These convert-a-flare tube nuts, sleeves, and a plain JIC tube union are much less expensive than the male JIC compression fitting. I use all of those bits a lot and have them on hand. In addition to being a lot less expensive they allow you to skip dash sizes - e.g put a -08 end on a -06 tube.




Dan
I'd just caution OP to measure that hard line before ordering parts.
 

D2Cat

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If/when you find a good hyd shop you will be able to come up with an alternative of some kind. I had a hyd hose blow on a '66 730 Case tractor two winters ago. I was using it to feed hay and needed it. The dealer could order the hose (It was about 35" long with a peculiar long 90 on one end), take a week to get it and cost $270. Asked him about about hose replacement since they makeup hoses. Said sure. A thirty minute wait and $77 I walked out with what I needed. Good luck with the project.
 

TheOldHokie

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If/when you find a good hyd shop you will be able to come up with an alternative of some kind. I had a hyd hose blow on a '66 730 Case tractor two winters ago. I was using it to feed hay and needed it. The dealer could order the hose (It was about 35" long with a peculiar long 90 on one end), take a week to get it and cost $270. Asked him about about hose replacement since they makeup hoses. Said sure. A thirty minute wait and $77 I walked out with what I needed. Good luck with the project.
Exactly!!

Dan
 

whitetiger

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Thanks all for your input! I went to a hydraulic hose shop as recommended. They did not think a compression or flare fitting would be a viable option.
The compression fitting is a good solution; I have used it and have seen it used many times. Just cut the tube back a little to get to a good section of the tube, and emery cloth it clean and smooth.

Their first recommendation was to tack weld it ALA Smokeydog.
Do not try welding it. The tube is worn thin and rusted—pitted. If you weld it, you will very likely get debris from the weld in your control valve.


Their second recommendation was to replace the whole metal section with rubber hose (I tried sourcing the OEM part [70050-00709] but it's discontinued and impossible to find.) They were thinking this is would cost about $150 to $300, which is actually less than I thought but still steep for a poor tightwad like me.
I have a friend that can MIG weld it for free, but not until next Sunday and I really need it ASAP.

A couple people have recommended JB Weld. I have some which is rated to 5000#.
Only in your wildest dreams would JB Weld repair a high-pressure leak in a hydraulic tube.

Do I have anything to lose by cleaning it up really good and trying that first?
Use a compression fitting and add a short section of hose to repair it. Just use two P clamps around the tubes rather than the c-clamp to hold the hose and tube in place.
 
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