Pinhole leak in metal hydraulic line

[forrest carver]

I have an '84 L275. During a job I noticed a leak on the metal hydraulic line (actually my 6yo son noticed it and flagged me down. Good job kid!) The leak is 180 degrees from the red X in the photo below.

A while back a hose sprang a leak and it was easy to replace. This, however, is a very long metal line with several bends going almost all the way to the control block, and the cubical fitting is a part of it. My first thought was to use a rubberized hose clamp to repair it, but the pinhole is so close to the cubical fitting that it seems like a difficult repair. What should I do?

When the rubber hose sprang a leak it looked like normal hydraulic fluid. On this leak, the oil looks more like an emulsion. Is this something to be concerned about?

P.S. same disclaimer as all my other posts: I'm a novice, don't know the terminology, etc. Explain like I'm five.

 

[jaxs]

First and foremost, be extremely cautious when you or the kid are withing a few feet of this leak. Eye damage being primary concern but hydraulic pressure can inject oil below skin which has far more serious ramification than one would think.

As for repair, contact a hydraulic hose shop. They can likely splice a new fitting and foot or two of line if you remove it and take it in.. Fittings are not same as plumbing so even if you try diy you'll have to source parts at a hydraulic hose shop.

 

[PoTreeBoy]

First you need to measure that hard line and determine if it's metric or imperial.

That fitting and hose appear to be NPT, 1/4 or 3/8"?

You can cut off the tube and use a compression adapter. Most of them are straight, so you may need an elbow to turn the corner.

Being so close to that clamp could complicate things. Hopefully, you can get enough length sticking out to install the fitting. Otherwise you'll have to extend the tube.

 

[JimmyJazz]

I had a similar issue not long ago. I looked up the part on Messicks website called them the next day and had the part in my hand maybe the day after. Super fast. I think the part was about $100 and the shipping was $70ish . I called and complained about the shipping cost and they reduced it a good bit. When I ordered it for some reason they could not not tell me how much the shipping would cost. I was and am very pleased with Messicks. Their employees are top notch. It was a small pain to replace but if I can do it anyone can. Good luck.

 

[Smokeydog]

Had a small pin hole leak on hard line going to steering box on B20. Disassembly would have been very involved. Took a chance to mig spot weld it as a temporary fix till I had time to fix. Lasted 23 years till I sold it.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

Kinda 'weird' the 'white build up around the fittings,

It being a steel line , it'll have full 2,000+- # pressure in it, so be super careful
!
The best option is to buy the correct line and replace it. yes ,can be a 'challenge' fishing it in BUT 'they' did it at the factory and pretty fast ,so if it takes you an hour...not a big deal.

If you decide to 'patch' the line, get properly rated fittings ! remember it's 2000+ PSI not house water plumbing !!!

Also, when repairing consider adding a rubber rectangle between that clamp and the 2 steel lines ?

 

[D2Cat]

It's a 40 year old part, I'd replace it and be done with the problem!

 

[jaxs]

Well, everything besides duct tape has been recommended so that puts you back to square one.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

Probably a good idea to replace the one above it ? Looks like 'tape' around the threads ??

 

[forrest carver]

Thanks all for your input! I went to a hydraulic hose shop as recommended. They did not think a compression or flare fitting would be a viable option. Their first recommendation was to tack weld it ALA Smokeydog. Their second recommendation was to replace the whole metal section with rubber hose (I tried sourcing the OEM part [70050-00709] but it's discontinued and impossible to find.) They were thinking this is would cost about $150 to $300, which is actually less than I thought but still steep for a poor tightwad like me.

I have a friend that can MIG weld it for free, but not until next Sunday and I really need it ASAP. A couple people have recommended JB Weld. I have some which is rated to 5000#. Do I have anything to lose by cleaning it up really good and trying that first?

 

[Henro]

The JB Weld idea gave me a LMAO moment, but thinking about it, MAYBE if you gobbed it on real good, all around the tubing, after cleaning the tubing REALLY WELL, with a stroke of luck it might work!

Who knows...I doubt it but have been wrong before. If you do try it please do report back...

 

[forrest carver]

I'll give it a shot, I don't really see any downside in trying it out (???)

Until then, a couple more questions for you all.

#1 any thoughts on the emulsified look of the leaked oil? is that simply from it being "aerated" by splashing into the metal at high pressure?

#2 I don't know how much oil has leaked out. I would guess anywhere from a cup to a quart but really have no idea. Is it better to underfill or overfill? How will I know if either has occurred?

 

[PoTreeBoy]

I'll give it a shot, I don't really see any downside in trying it out (???)

Until then, a couple more questions for you all.

#1 any thoughts on the emulsified look of the leaked oil? is that simply from it being "aerated" by splashing into the metal at high pressure?

#2 I don't know how much oil has leaked out. I would guess anywhere from a cup to a quart but really have no idea. Is it better to underfill or overfill? How will I know if either has occurred?

So that white stuff is foam from the oil? How long has it been since the oil was changed?

I like J B Weld, but I think you're wasting your time with that. Either wrap something around it to keep someone from getting hurt and use it until your friend is available, or remove it and take it to a (preferably TIG) welder.

 

[D2Cat]

If you are going to use JB weld be careful to not get any of the product pushed into the hole. You don't want a BB of that hardened stuff in your hyd system. Once the weld is set up I'd put a SS clamp over it.

I would think if you can locate the ends needed a hyd hose would not cost what you were quoted. If the fittings were $20 a piece and the hose was $50, you wouldn't have a hundred in it!!!!

 

[ruger1980]

You will see oil under high pressure and velocity coming from a pin hole leak foam like that. As far as fixing the best solution as stated is to replace the line with new. If not available you could remove it and braze or weld over the hole but chances are the tubing is pitted and compromised anyway. Do not try JB Weld it will not last if it works at all. There are shops that can build you a new line if needed. They can silver solder or braze your ends or new ones on a new section of steel tube.

 

[hodge]

JB Weld works good at what it's designed for, but you are expecting it to contain high pressure by bonding to the exit of the oil. You don't have much to lose by trying, but keep your expectations low. If it were mine, I'd bite the bullet and buy the new line. Fix it once, right, and don't look back.

 

[TheOldHokie]

I have an '84 L275. During a job I noticed a leak on the metal hydraulic line (actually my 6yo son noticed it and flagged me down. Good job kid!) The leak is 180 degrees from the red X in the photo below.

View attachment 151242

A while back a hose sprang a leak and it was easy to replace. This, however, is a very long metal line with several bends going almost all the way to the control block, and the cubical fitting is a part of it. My first thought was to use a rubberized hose clamp to repair it, but the pinhole is so close to the cubical fitting that it seems like a difficult repair. What should I do?

When the rubber hose sprang a leak it looked like normal hydraulic fluid. On this leak, the oil looks more like an emulsion. Is this something to be concerned about?

P.S. same disclaimer as all my other posts: I'm a novice, don't know the terminology, etc. Explain like I'm five.

Drop yhe JB Weld abd step away frome the tube!!!

Two options neither of which are expensive:

1. Cut the end of the pipe off and splice on a short length of new tubing. You can use hydraulic compression fittings or 37 degree JIC flares both good to thousands of PSI. If your hydraulic shop can't habdle that find a more knowledgeable shop. Here is a picture of a flareless tube umion.

1. Same as above but use a short length of hydraulic hose instead of tubing. Thats an easy DIY repair. for under $100.

Dan

 

[mikester]

JBWeld LOL

That stuff's expensive, just tie an old rag around the leak. Put an old bowl under the tractor when it's parked to catch the drips. That way you can pour it back into the tractor when the bowl is full.

See, you can be safe AND frugal.

 

[TheOldHokie]

I have an '84 L275. During a job I noticed a leak on the metal hydraulic line (actually my 6yo son noticed it and flagged me down. Good job kid!) The leak is 180 degrees from the red X in the photo below.

View attachment 151242

A while back a hose sprang a leak and it was easy to replace. This, however, is a very long metal line with several bends going almost all the way to the control block, and the cubical fitting is a part of it. My first thought was to use a rubberized hose clamp to repair it, but the pinhole is so close to the cubical fitting that it seems like a difficult repair. What should I do?

When the rubber hose sprang a leak it looked like normal hydraulic fluid. On this leak, the oil looks more like an emulsion. Is this something to be concerned about?

P.S. same disclaimer as all my other posts: I'm a novice, don't know the terminology, etc. Explain like I'm five.

BTW - that picture looks like the plumbing on a loader. (L1730 ??). I am guessing its not part of the tractor's main hydraulic system. A longer distance picture of that junction showing where on the machine its located would be helpful.

Dan

 

[PoTreeBoy]

Here's one possibility. Use a long elbow and a compression adapter screwed together. The long elbow would give you something to clamp to. These are from Discount Hydraulic.