Noob here - BX2200 Questions

[JohnFromOKC]

First off hello! Found this site and it's very informative. I didn't see an introduction section so I went here first. My name is John and I live in Oklahoma City. Just bought a BX2200 yesterday with 634 hours, a belly mower and box blade. The serial # on the frame is 5B238 - assuming a 2005 model? Paid $5750 for it. Seemed like a reasonable deal. Mainly bought it to mow - we have about 6 acres of woods and grass. I'm already wishing I had a FEL

My questions are:

1. Where do you guys like to buy your maintenance parts? Dealer? - Online?

2. Has anyone installed a FEL after the fact? If so, what do you guys recommend and what can I expect to pay?

3. I noticed the tractor ran pretty hot while mowing - just off the red zone on the gage. Called the seller and he said the gage was incorrect - said he measured the temp with an infrared thermometer and it was off. Ummmm - Don't think I buy that answer. Checked the screens and coolant, belt etc - thermostat perhaps?

Anyway, I'm happy to be here. If these are too many questions for one thread, please let me know and I'll make separate threads. I'll also continue researching among existing threads here.

Thanks!!

John

 

[Stubbyie]

Welcome, John.

Don't know much about your particular model but wonder if it is one that has a thermosyphon-type cooling system? Very little on this forum reporting thermostat problems on Kubotas but anything is possible.

Regarding FEL: based on my experience over time and with different models of different brands---you'll be much happier if you spring for a loader made by Kubota to specifically fit your machine. It won't be inexpensive, but you get what you pay for. If you buy used and can mount it a good hydraulic shop can plumb it for you. If you buy new, negotiate the dealer installing it. I've been disappointed to some degree with every afetermarket loader that I've come across. More wrt FEL, see below...

Regarding parts and dealers: I've found the major OKC-area Kubota dealer difficult to deal with. I've tried to buy machines from them and later after the fact tried them for parts. They act like they're doing me a favor to take my money and will NOT negotiate prices on parts.

Now for the good news (and I get absolutely nothing out of this referral and the dealer doesn't know I'm posting this): right down the road from you in Okmulgee is Stewart-Martin. Best tractor dealer I've had the pleasure to work with. Bought two machines from them (and run a used one through their shop; and had a Tech make a house call once) and all my parts. Owner is Joey, start with him and introduce yourself. Talk with Pam in Parts Dept. Super lady. Knows her stuff and understands how to make a deal.

They've expanded into Tulsa market with Joey's son Jonathan (nickname BoBo) running that store independently. Haven't dealt as much with them but spouse shagged some parts up there one day and the counter guy was subbing out of the Okmulgee store and recognized her when she walked in and treated her well. I know Pam out of Okmulgee will ship to you on open account once you get set up.

Back to loader: I think it would be worth your time to make trip over to Okmulgee and sit down and talk with them about a loader. Make your best deal and let them do the install. If you aren't set up to haul, use their trucks and make it part of the deal. We brought a machine back from up-country couple years ago and my spouse rode way up there with their driver and his wife and found them to be good people, took care of our new 'used' equipment, all at extremely reasonable cost.

I'd be real real curious what your experiences are if you choose to try the Stewart-Martin dealership.

Please post back your experiences so we may all learn.

 

[Toyboy]

As far as it running hot, mine is just the opposite, runs cold. I checked it w/infrared and it was 180 or better depending where I checked. So I changed the thermostat when I changed coolant. Same thing, showing still running cold.....rats! Maybe the sensor? I'll mess with it another day.

See if you can get a infrared sensor and check it yourself to see if it's the gauge or not. Then you have a place to start from.

 

[GWD]

If you are looking for an infrared thermometer, Harbor Freight has them:

http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=infrared+thermometer

For parts and consumables, it is hard to beat Messicks for Kubota-branded items. Not much is saved using after-market filters and such. Here is their page for the BX2200:

http://www.messicks.com/Wiki/Kubota/BX2200.aspx

Look at the tabs on the top to get more information about your tractor. I'd recommend buying the hydraulic oil locally since shipping cost on it is a nightmare.

BUT..don't go cheap on the hydraulic oil. Use high quality branded stuff from a dealer. New Holland or Case oil is fine but I have gone through the "cheap oil" stage and it was not pretty. Kubota SUDT (cold climates) or UDT (warm climates) works well.

Regarding the loader:
I bought a Kubota brand LA211 FEL after a few years of having the BX2200. They are very hard to find and the local dealer just happen to have one sitting out back all overgrown with weeds. Other companies make a FEL for the tractor and likely that will be what you will be looking at.

 

[JohnFromOKC]

Stubbyie - Thank you for your reply! I'm in the Arcadia area of Edmond in Oklahoma County - Jones address, but a lot closer to Edmond than Jones.

I work in Norman and pass this dealership every day:

http://countryequipment.com/

Any experience with them? I'll find out this afternoon because the little red plastic cap for the hydraulic oil fill on the back by the three-point hitch is cross-threaded, cracked and leaking. Got to have that to operate it this afternoon. I'll also ask them about the overheating issue.

As with anything used, there are bound to be little problems to deal with. I noticed a little stud that holds the MMM deck up on the right side is broken off, so I'll get to do a little welding repair to get back to level.

 

[JohnFromOKC]

TB - running cool sounds like a good problem to have. Seller said he measured his temp at 150 degrees.

 

[JohnFromOKC]

GWD - Thank you for the information! I will definately check it out.

On edit - where are you measuring the temperature? The engine block? Radiator? What is the best temperature range?

 

[TripleR]

We have a BX2200 with FEL and 60 MMM we bought new in 2003 and agree essentially with everyone else. The loader for that model is going to be a bear to find and unless you are lucky can wind up spending more than you could get a whole unit.

They are still great little tractors and we kept the 2200 even after buying a 2660. Ours was loaned out and left out in the weather resulting in some electrical issues and replaced switches and gauges.

 

[JohnFromOKC]

TripleR - Have you experienced any overheating issues with your BX?

 

[TripleR]

TripleR - Have you experienced any overheating issues with your BX?

Never have, we pull the screens after use and blow out everything out with compressed air, they have a really good cooling system.

 

[ipz2222]

I have the bx2230. Added a Bush Hog brand fel. Good unit, but you will have to have some kind of support to hold the back end up when you remove it.
Mine shows on the cool side on the guage. I use Mystik jt-5 for the hydralics. Availible at TSC. They have another Mystik there but it's not as good, just regular hyd oil.

 

[JohnFromOKC]

Thanks for all the replies guys! OK - I think I figured out the overheating problem - I had previously cleaned the screens and that didn't work. Through some internet research, I blew out the radiator with compressed air and greased the spindles on the 60" deck (I had assumed the previous owner had surely done that prior to the sale - bad assumption on my part). Went and ran it for about an hour and it stayed in the middle of the temp gage range.

Went to the dealer in OKC - Country Equipment, and they will install an LA211 for $3,500. Ouch! I'll check around for other dealers to see if I can get it done cheaper. I'll definitely check out Stubbyie's dealer friend in Okmulgee.

Any other Oklahoman's on here?

 

[cerlawson]

On over heating, that had been a common discussion herein year's past. I thought the heat sensor being near the muffler was the cause, so I insulated the area between the two with two sheets of aluminum foil when buying it,so if that was the cause, it didn't happen to me.

 

[85Hokie]

TB - running cool sounds like a good problem to have. Seller said he measured his temp at 150 degrees.

John,,

Actually running cool is VERY bad for any engine. Thus the reason for a thermostat. Ever see an 18 wheeler that has covered up his front vents in the winter time? Cause his engine cannot get up to temps!!!

People who think taking a thermostat out is a good thing, realllly bad idea! Water needs to stay in the heads and block for a second or more or it cannot pick up the heat!!!! Engines have overheated and the water temps been normal! Water running by a hot head and not getting heated!

Internal combustion engines need to run as hot as it can stand WITHOUT overheating ........race engines like about 200, most cars the thermostat FULLY opens at 180 ish ......

So measuring the temps with a probe would be the best way. Diesels run so much cooler than a gas engine.

Get a probe and find out what is going on! Probe the water in the radiator too.

 

[ipz2222]

I got my fel (bushhog) from a local dealer. It comes in Kubota Orange. Paid around $2700 and installed it myself. There was 1 L shaped fitting I had to buy but otherwise no problem.

 

[JohnFromOKC]

John,,

So measuring the temps with a probe would be the best way. Diesels run so much cooler than a gas engine.

Get a probe and find out what is going on! Probe the water in the radiator too.

Thanks 85 Hokie! Question - I have an infrared thermometer and a Fluke probe thermometer. Which one would you suggest, and where on the engine should I reference for the most relevant temperature reading?

As I mentioned earlier, I may have solved the heat problem. I'll know for sure as the outdoor temperatures rise.

I really appreciate the replies folks!!

 

[ipz2222]

Temp should be measured at the houseing where the top rad hose connects to the engine. Temp probes are more accurate than electronic (infa red).

 

[85Hokie]

Thanks 85 Hokie! Question - I have an infrared thermometer and a Fluke probe thermometer. Which one would you suggest, and where on the engine should I reference for the most relevant temperature reading?

As I mentioned earlier, I may have solved the heat problem. I'll know for sure as the outdoor temperatures rise.

I really appreciate the replies folks!!

harbor freight makes a cheap one, less than 20 bucks......

I have this one I use for HVAC to see how hot the air is, it is good +/- about 1 degree.


http://www.harborfreight.com/infrared-thermometer-93984.html


anywhere and everywhere.....head if you can get a shot on it, the radiator, nothing should be much hotter than 200 or so, now if you swing and shoot the exhaust, that might get up there! The water is a the most accurate way to determine what is going on inside, unless there is a blockage or something that keeps the water from circulating.

 

[JohnFromOKC]

Thanks for the replies guys! Been out of town all weekend - didn't get to play on the tractor - Raining right now. I'll fire it up next week and see how she runs.