New tractor - a few problems

[gpreuss]

I would take the front end of the FEL tractor and the transmission/rear end of the other, and combine them to make a really nice tractor. The job sounds daunting, but once you start it goes pretty well. Have plenty of jack stands, come-alongs, and a bottle jack or two, and you should be good to go. Take a thousand pictures (something I always forget to do) and reassembly is made simpler.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I would just split it at the bell housing and then work backwards.
Like gpreuss said have plenty of jack stands and blocks to work with.

One trick to dealing with the front end of the tractor is to have some wood shims and wedge one or more on each side right between the front axle and the frame to keep the front end from webble wobbling back and forth when you separate it.

 

[TxRzrBk]

I would take the front end of the FEL tractor and the transmission/rear end of the other, and combine them to make a really nice tractor. The job sounds daunting, but once you start it goes pretty well. Have plenty of jack stands, come-alongs, and a bottle jack or two, and you should be good to go. Take a thousand pictures (something I always forget to do) and reassembly is made simpler.

I have been contemplating this option but started down the more difficult path because the one without the FEL is one of the early b7100s that does not have an integrated overrun clutch and has the shorter PTO stub. I am not sure it is worth all of the trouble to get the better stub and integrated clutch so I may go with the plan you have outlined.

 

[TxRzrBk]

Anyone think it worth it to go to the extra trouble of swapping the transmissions for the updated PTO stub and integrated overrun clutch?

 

[TxRzrBk]

I successfully swapped the back halves of the two tractors, the one with the bucket now has working 4wd. The process was much easier than I thought it would be, it was just me with a floor jack, a set of jack stands and a pile of wood blocks, it ended up taking me a full day but I was super slow and careful on the first one, on the second one I was exactly the opposite.

One fly in the ointment - in testing out the 4wd I noticed it was fairly difficult to disengage, when the same back half was on the other tractor it definitely wasn't difficult. I have only tested it twice out of fear that I will tear it up again. The only remaking parts of the 4wd system that could cause the problem would be in the front axle. Any ideas?

 

[gpreuss]

Was it on the ground, or on blocks? On the ground, it is often difficult to get it out of 4WD. Since the front end turns just a bit faster than the rear end, the 4WD gears are always under some strain. Make sure tire sizes are proper. Don't mix really old and really new tires. On my tractor, it disengages easier if I am coasting downhill. Sometimes I have to stop completely.
If it is on blocks and is still difficult to disengage, the good thing is that you have a spare front axle!

BTW, great job, getting it all swapped around, retaining your original toe and finger count!

 

[MagKarl]

Since you now have a loader and 4wd, you might try lifting the front tires to see if unloading them makes it easier to shift out of 4wd. I just leave mine in 4wd all the time.

 

[TxRzrBk]

Thanks Guys, I had not thought about the tires but indeed the knuckle head who had it before me has some ATV looking front tires on the tractor, they appear to be larger than the stock tires. I had planned on swapping the out for the stock AG tires I have on the other tractor, going to swap them and see if that help. I know it can be difficult to shift out of 4wd but the other tractor was always smooth as glass unless going uphill.

I had a look at swapping the axles last night and it looks super simple, I am going to test this setup a little more before I pull the trigger on that.