New to the forum repairing/refurbishing a B8200HST

[beemer530]

I just acquired an 85 B8200 HST 4WD With loader, box scraper, and bush hog. It had the same owner for the last 20 yrs maintaining 10 acres in southern AZ. Unfortunately he must have only used water in the cooling system. There is a 3/8" hole in the water flange bolted to the head behind the water pump. There also appears to have been leaking from the gasket also. The previous owner removed the sheet metal , radiator,fan, water pump, alternator, and air cleaner, then died before doing anything else. I know I am missing the oil cooler and probably some nuts and bolts, but that I'll figure out later. I drained the oil, first getting some clear water then very black oil. Since the engine wouldn't turn with a rubber strap wrench, I guess I'll have to remove the glow plugs to add some penetrating oil and see if there is water in any cylinders. It won't surprise me if I end up removing the head. I'll get a few pics tomorrow.

I don't have a shop nor operator's manual yet, so my only question right now is the best source for one, preferably in pdf format. I do have the parts diagrams which will be very helpful and have read many posts and articles here. I will appreciate any help along the way and will be happy to share my experience.

 

[MagKarl]

Kubota seems to keep a tight grip on the manuals. You can find parts manuals for download, but when it comes to service manuals, good luck. I ordered a full set of manuals for mine from Messick's. They are very expensive photo copies of the original manuals, but, they are the best I could find and worth the money if you plan on doing anything yourself.

http://www.messicks.com/Articles/KubotaManuals.aspx

 

[bruceatlam]

Or keep an eye on E-Bay --- they'll show up there. Still probably pretty expensive but you can find original manuals in very good condition. Originals are a lot better than the copies ---

 

[beemer530]

Thanks for the input on manuals and yes, I have been reading the resources here. Well I removed the head and found water and rust in #1, rust in #3, and #2 clean cause it was up all the way. Obviously had been sitting longer than I was led to believe. (I bought it from the son-in-law if the deceased owner.) Now to decide which way to proceed. I didn't see obvious signs of water leaking past the head gasket, so I need to find out the source. Looks like it will need to be bored or new liners and definitely some head work. I haven't removed the oil pan to check the bottom end yet.

beemer

 

[Kytim]

Of course you an order them from SDVic. It would kinda financially help support the forum. See their sticky ad in the for sale section!

SDVic and Mr. K. really support US by providing the forum to exchange ideas and info.

 

[Rustbucket]

Hi Beemer

It would be really nice to see some pictures of your rebuild journey, if you can find the time!

 

[beemer530]

# 3 cylinder was down enough to hone the rust enough to gain more than a few inches of rotational movement at the crank. I finally got # 1 piston low enough to hone. After several honings and cleanings it should be safe to remove the pistons without damage in the slight chance they are still good. I have a few pictures so far and will try to up load from my phone.

beemer

 

[beemer530]

Here are a few more pictures. The visible neglect of coolant and use of some oviously corrosive water can be seen in the pic of the water flange (per Kubota) or what I would call the thermostat housing. I have also included a picture of the Tractor as I brought it home. I have the sheet metal for the front which had already been removed.

beemer

 

[beemer530]

I put the head back on to make it easier to remove the motor. I set up the engine hoist and disconnected hoses and linkages, then undid all bolts to find that there wasn't enough room for the engine to move forward in the subframe. Don't know why I thought this would be easy. FEL needs to come off, so the motor was bolted back to the subframe. I set up the hoist to lift the loader off after releasing it. It had been on a long time and wouldn't release from the rear. I had to use a bottle jack, penetrating oil, and an air chisel with blunt tip to release the loader from the rear pockets. Thanks to the pictures on here, I saw what was necessary to support the loader when removed. Using some 1"thick wall square tube and some 5/8" rod I quickly made 2 stands. These temporary feet were laying around, I will do permanent ones later. Safely supported, I rolled the tractor out. It appears that the subframe has to be separated from the tractor before the engine can be removed. Not sure if I should keep the front axle attached or separate the axle at the center pivot? Can't wait till I get a service manual.

Beemer

 

[beemer530]

Well I got the tractor split and the engine is out. yea. The head, clutch, flywheel, oil pan, Pistons, and rear plate are off. So far everything but the head and cylinder walls are in good shape.The front cover is loose, but the pto adapter on the crankshaft is stuck on. Maybe an overnight soak with WD-40 will help.

 

[beemer530]

Finally got the PTO adapter off with a combo of soaking, tapping, using a screw driver and hammer around the flange to pulley seam, and heat. The pulley came of easily with a 3 jaw puller after buying a 29mm deep socket for the center nut. Off came the cover to inspect the gears and check out how the timing marks line up. Well they are off but seem to be the same number of teeth off in all 3 places. Not sure what this means at the moment, certainly it should be set properly when I reassemble the engine. I'll check it all out tomorrow before removing the crank shaft.

beemer

 

[beemer530]

I took the cam out, got the injector pump,fuel pump, hydraulic pump, and crankshaft off or out. I just have the oil pump and a few studs to remove and it is ready for the machine shop. i'l post some pics tomorrow.

beemer

 

[gurn]

Beemer530,looks like your doing a good job on the project. Best of luck with the rebuild and I can't wait to see the finished project.

 

[Kytim]

Looks like your doing a fine job of it! that block sure was rough. careful around that freestanding loader, those stands could allow it to move laterally causing injury to someone or thing.

For me it takes less time to prevent injury than to heal!

 

[beemer530]

Thanks for the compliments and encouragement

Yes,the block is rough. At some point it got a leak on top between the water flange (thermostat housing) and the head. I think the previous owner just added water and let it leak for a long time which accounts for much of the exterior rust. There was even a home made raised letter tape label reminder above the instrument panel to check the water. I was told he started to fix it, but got sick and died before fixing it. I think the job was too much since front pulley and cover were never removed and it sat for some time with the exhaust stack pointing straight up. Piston 2 was up and water got in to cylinders from the exhaust manifold. There was flaking rust in bores 1 and 3 which were down at different heights. The bores were cleaned up a bit with a hone before removing the pistons to mitigate damage and give me a better idea of cylinder wall damage. So far the pistons are showing no signs of wear, but I haven't measured any tolerances yet. The crankshaft has ridges on the main journals that I can barely feel with my fingernail, so it will need some work too.


I also was concerned of lateral movement with my loader stands, but the bucket is on the ground and there is a notched 2x4 from the ground to the front mounting tube right behind the bucket. I then shimmed one stand to compensate for the uneven ground. It is stable and I keep checking it. No accidental bump is going to move it. As soon as the engine is operational the loader will go back on for good.

beemer

 

[smokeys]

Hey Beemer - You go guy. I am not a mechanic but I'm impressed with your speed, "Engenuity", and quality work and pictures for the rest of us to help you. Will be checking your reports daily and living through your experiences. Welcome to the forum, really a great family here.
Regards,
Smokey

 

[beemer530]

Thanks for the compliments Smokeys.

Well I soaked the pistons in carb/parts cleaner and then used a brass wire brush on the carbon. The pistons measure out as standard and are in very good shape, but I haven't measured the ring clearances yet. I was expecting much worse after seeing the cylinder bores.

beemer