I have an L4310, 2WD, and the charge light is on. I replaced the battery (it was old and tested bad) and the alternator after it wouldn't charge and the light is still on. The voltage at the battery is 12VDC whether the tractor is running or not. I think it is the VR but can't find the part on the diagram. I called Messicks and they said the VR was internal to the alternator and cost $441. I don't believe this is right as I can replace the alternator for a fraction of that. I am not close to the tractor right now and can't dig into it. Googling it I found part # 15351-64600 and it says it is for the L4310 but I can't confirm. Does anyone know what part number is for the VR? Any ideas?
L4310 F Voltage Regulator
- Thread starter Waimea Mike
- Start date
The voltage regulator is inside the alternator which is a 40 amp unit.
Depending upon your electronic skill level you might do better finding an independent alternator and starter repair shop. That way you keep the quality components and only replace what has failed.
Alternators with internal regulators have been common since at least the 1980's
Dave
Depending upon your electronic skill level you might do better finding an independent alternator and starter repair shop. That way you keep the quality components and only replace what has failed.
Alternators with internal regulators have been common since at least the 1980's
Dave
As Dave stated above, it's integral to the alternator. You typically see the external regulators on older and smaller kubota B series that utilize a dynamo.
Also, if your battery is truly at 12.0VDC, it's only half charged. A fully charged battery should read around 12.6VDC
The WSM sates the regulator can be removed for replacement, so maybe you have a local shop that can test it. I'm going to assume that very, very few people bother to diagnose and replace the regulator section, hence why it is more expensive than the alternator itself, which is much more common.
Also, if your battery is truly at 12.0VDC, it's only half charged. A fully charged battery should read around 12.6VDC
The WSM sates the regulator can be removed for replacement, so maybe you have a local shop that can test it. I'm going to assume that very, very few people bother to diagnose and replace the regulator section, hence why it is more expensive than the alternator itself, which is much more common.
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OEM parts cost more than chinese aftermarket parts. So you get on amazon and search for a L4310 alternator, you'll find a bunch of imported and inferior alternators for $80 or whatever they are. Attractive price isn't it? I have used a few on different projects and I've had a few of them fail-one of them spectacularly, but that was a customer who used it on a race car with the wrong pulley ratio. They don't like to be spun 25,000+ RPM....
However, the factory alternators are a low failure rate part. In the decades that I did dealer work I can't think of any that I had to replace due to failure? I have a few in the storage building that were salvaged from replacement engines, but I can't think of any that actually failed. They are "that" good.
That said, I'm kind of with NIH here. I wonder if there's not a separate problem? Do you have +12v at the large lug on the back of the alternator? Check that first. Second, make sure you have +12v on the little 2 pin plug, one of those wires should be 'hot' with the key on. That' is the wire that "tells" the alternator to "turn on". No 12v there, it won't charge.
However, the factory alternators are a low failure rate part. In the decades that I did dealer work I can't think of any that I had to replace due to failure? I have a few in the storage building that were salvaged from replacement engines, but I can't think of any that actually failed. They are "that" good.
That said, I'm kind of with NIH here. I wonder if there's not a separate problem? Do you have +12v at the large lug on the back of the alternator? Check that first. Second, make sure you have +12v on the little 2 pin plug, one of those wires should be 'hot' with the key on. That' is the wire that "tells" the alternator to "turn on". No 12v there, it won't charge.