I have quite a bit of play in my steering and after looking at the tractor I found the tie rod ends to be worn and the steering bushing. I have never done this repair before and wonder is there a guide to this? Any advice? I don't see much in google searches maybe I am calling it the wrong name. I usually work on my own equipment but will take it to my mechanic if I have to.
L3710 steering bushing
- Thread starter Brak876
- Start date
I found another thread here through google that talks about it but no answer look at the diagram here
L4300DT Steering play
Hello, Overlooked excessive pitman wear when I purchased tractor last fall, so now I need some advice on how to remove pitman assembly or if it's possible to remove pitman shaft/bushings without removing the whole assembly? Just thought I'd ask first before tearing into it..... pat
www.orangetractortalks.com
oh that one
yeah I've replaced them before. You usually have to ream the bushing after replacing it. Or just get the whole pitman arm that has new reamed bushings already installed. Make sure to get the pin too as it is usually worn as well. There's possibility that the bracket that holds the pin is worn/oblonged, so you might want to look at that before ordering parts. There is a thrust washer between the pitman arm and the bracket, it also wears--I've had to dig around and find thicker washers in the past to take up most of the clearance. You don't want it "tight" but you do want to remove most of the slop. Kubota should have offered the washer as a selective shim.
Takes a hydraulic press to remove/replace the bushings and this repair can only be done if there is a bushing left in the arm. If it's worn through and into the arm, you have to get the arm. Replacement arm is updated. I don't know what they updated, just know that the part number changed a few times since it came out in 1990-whatever year it was.
Even after pressing the bushings out/new one in, a lot of times the bushings are mushroomed just a little so you have to ream it. If you don't have access to a press and the right mandrels to use with it, and a reamer, you may find it more convenient to replace the whole arm assembly.
yeah I've replaced them before. You usually have to ream the bushing after replacing it. Or just get the whole pitman arm that has new reamed bushings already installed. Make sure to get the pin too as it is usually worn as well. There's possibility that the bracket that holds the pin is worn/oblonged, so you might want to look at that before ordering parts. There is a thrust washer between the pitman arm and the bracket, it also wears--I've had to dig around and find thicker washers in the past to take up most of the clearance. You don't want it "tight" but you do want to remove most of the slop. Kubota should have offered the washer as a selective shim.
Takes a hydraulic press to remove/replace the bushings and this repair can only be done if there is a bushing left in the arm. If it's worn through and into the arm, you have to get the arm. Replacement arm is updated. I don't know what they updated, just know that the part number changed a few times since it came out in 1990-whatever year it was.
Even after pressing the bushings out/new one in, a lot of times the bushings are mushroomed just a little so you have to ream it. If you don't have access to a press and the right mandrels to use with it, and a reamer, you may find it more convenient to replace the whole arm assembly.
There's possibility that the bracket that holds the pin is worn/oblonged,
It is, could you offer some advice? There's about 1/4" gap to the rear between the pin and the inside of the crossmember bracket. It's oblong so shimstock is not an option. Drill it out and add a bearing? Can it be welded to make up the gap? I suppose this means the pitman arm is in trouble as well. Thanks.