L355SS fluid leak through blind plug holes

[turbowells]

As I was clearing some snow with my L355 Shuttle Shift, I noticed some fluid drops in the snow. Within the few minutes it took me to get back to the point where I could take a look at the leak, it was a slow stream.

I'm fairly certain it's hydraulic fluid and not engine oil coming from the blind plug holes at the bottom of the flywheel housing. Looking at the holes, it appears there were plugs in at one time, but they look like they've been gone for some time.

The tractor seems to be operating properly.

Any thoughts on how to continue? I've read quite a few threads and watched some videos, but would like to get headed in the right direction.

I've attached a photo and page from the parts manual showing the leak locations.

 

[turbowells]

I've been going through the workshop manual. It looks like if I'm lucky, its the main shaft seal, unlucky if it's the hydraulic manifold (or worse).

Since the blind plugs were removed, I knew about the problem immediately. If they'd been in, oil would have filled the housing and it would have been another failure that clued me in.

 

[rbargeron]

This sounds like a leak I posted about in 2016. The tractor was my L345, nearly the same machine. The power steering box has an iron plug with a large o-ring at the bottom. Its a bit of work to take the steering box off and fix it, but a lot less than splitting the tractor for a main shaft seal. If its a steering leak - the power-assist will soon stop working - it uses a separate small reservoir above the engine.

Mine has started leaking again - its on the winter list Let us know what you find. Dick B

 

[turbowells]

I'll be looking at this again tomorrow. There is a small amount of hydraulic fluid on top of the flywheel housing around the Shuttle Control Valve (for the shuttle shift). It no where matched the fluid coming out the bottom, but I'll take a deeper look.

 

[turbowells]

I was hoping the steering was the cause of my leak, but it seems unlikely. I couldn't see how a leak from the steering could find it's way to the flywheel housing.

It appears the L345 and L355 are substantial different due to the Shuttle Shift. On the L355, a steering leak will run right into the reservoir.

I'm no expert and I'm certainly willing to be told I'm wrong.

I've attached a photo from the L355 workshop manual.

 

[JimmyJazz]

I don't know if this makes you feel better. If you saw my stained garage floor you would die. I have never owned a tractor or motorcycle that didn't leak. I am somewhat in the "good enough" camp on such things. Now if your heart valve was leaking that of course is a different story. Merry Christmas.

 

[SidecarFlip]

I don't know if this makes you feel better. If you saw my stained garage floor you would die. I have never owned a tractor or motorcycle that didn't leak. I am somewhat in the "good enough" camp on such things. Now if your heart valve was leaking that of course is a different story. Merry Christmas.

You must own a Hardly Davidson, they all leak.... Quality assembly there...

 

[07wingnut]

or a vintage British motorcycle.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

As rbargeron said:
The steering box bolts to the top of the Clutch housing and if there is an issue with the steering it can leak into the clutch housing.
It's fairly easy to verify, the PS on that model uses a different reservoir for the PS, so check it for loss.

 

[rbargeron]

You're right turbowells - the steering is indeed further back. This just proves I shouldn't try to go by memory. The clutch housing on the L355 is longer than on the L345 to fit the shuttle assembly between the clutch and the trans. So my idea about your leak was bogus.

Regarding oil leaking around the shuttle valve (which IS above the clutch housing) transmission hydraulic oil and power steering oil should be the same. This fact doesn't explain the leak though.

There's a trace of black oil on the front driveshaft tube. Was any leakage wiped off before the picture? Engine oil is usually black.

Does it leak right away after cold start or develop later? Probably need to clean everything up and watch it warm up and idle to see what appears where.

 

[turbowells]

I realized I never followed up on this thread. I apologize.

I had a talented friend come over and look at the tractor last December. I was headed to Florida the first week of January for a few months and he was going to split the tractor while I was away. The hydraulic fluid was leaking out slow, but steady. The rate was like a water faucet where the rate was such it was barely a steady flow.

A few days later, I was getting the tractor ready to drive over to his shop about a half mile away. A small amount of fluid came out when I started it and it stopped.

I drive the tractor around every day for the next week and it didn't leak. Once back from Florida this spring, I did a fair amount of rototilling and other work. It hasn't yet leaked again.

The day I started the tractor and it started leaking was very cold. The shuttle shift lever worked very hard. We had a few warm days leading up to and including the day I was to take the tractor to the shop.

I suspect there's a seal in the shuttle shift mechanism that's marginal. I'll have to keep an eye on it.

Thanks to all who responded.

 

[turbowells]

This is a follow up from my original post.

The leaking has increased over the last couple of years. Originally it only leaked during cold weather, but now it's dripping fairly steady through the warm months. I topped off my engine oil and hydraulic fluid and used the rotary cutter for a couple of hours. The engine oil level was fine, but the hydraulic fluid was down well below the bubble.

I've pulled the tractor apart. It looks fairly dry behind the clutch with the exception of some fluid around the starter. As I feared, it's not evident as to where its leaking. I had to drain the hydraulic fluid when I split the tractor, but I didn't drain the engine oil.

The bolts around the hydraulic manifold are all tight. There doesn't seem to be anywhere around the hydraulic manifold where it looks like fluid is coming. The attached photo is right after I pulled the tractor apart.

I'm leaning toward replacing the main seal behind the clutch bearing and the O-rings. Any thoughts on something I'm missing would be appreciated.