L275DT Weak starting - basic questions

[timsch]

Hello all,

My L275DT has been sluggish starting 1st thing. Reading forum posts, I've got more questions than answers, so, some basic questions.

I've been using 10W-30 oil, but this last change this week went with 15W-40 Rotella T6. One post mentioned that wrong oils can lead to weak starting. Odds here? Beautiful weather out....

I cleaned a very corroded ground connection where the neg battery cable connects to the frame. I also took off that plate and cleaned the corrosion off between it and the frame. I expected that to be the main problem, but unfortunately that was not the case. Still sluggish starting after that.

Battery is a 2024 model, and load tests good.

Glow plugs work. My indicator has never worked in the years I've had it I just read a thread stating that the indicator is important to keep the GPs from overloading. I'll put that on the list of things to check out. How long should i engage them before 1st starting when weather is 70F?

I haven't looked at the starter itself. Maybe original - dunno. I've only had the tractor since 2018. Does it ground where it mounts to the frame like an 8N? I saw the positive but not a negative connection @ the starter. Maybe i just missed it.

There's smoke. Kicks off strongly before long & runs fine.

 

[Russell King]

I have an L185 that was sluggish when I got it.

The starter was removed and the repair shop said it was not repairable so I replaced it with a reb starter and that solved the issue. So I recommend you have yours checked. If you replace the starter I recommend you think about replacing the starter with a newer style gear reduction starter if you can get one.

Also, are you using the decompression knob to get it spinning and then start? That will help tremendously with the starting.

I glow plug mine every time I start it for 10 to 15 seconds in summer and 15 to 25 in the colder times (below 50 ).

Replacing the indicator and glow plugs is pretty inexpensive unless they increased prices lately. That helped starting. But I still don’t see the indicator unless it is pretty dark out.

Yes the starter is grounded at the mount only, you can add a ground if you want to. Replacing the cables is probably a good idea if they are older.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

re: I cleaned a very corroded ground connection

waste of time... buy ALL new cables and install. I've yet to see anyone 'clean a corroded cable', properly. Cables are dozens of conductors and water gets in between them and that's where the corrosion is worse.

simple quick test.
1) remove battery,place on floor close to starter
2) use GOOD battery jumper cables and connect at starter +ve big stud
3) watch for sparks,but now connect ground near starter
If starter spins normal, good starter ,good battery, BAD cables.

 

[timsch]

THanks for the replies.

My tractor was in pretty poor condition when I got it. There's nothing but a hole where my decompression knob is supposed to be, so I've always started with full compression. I didn't even know about it until I ran across it in the shop manual this morning. I'll fix that if I can find out how to.

15 seconds is about how long I activate the GPs. I held it this morning for about 20, and it turned over decently and fired in a few seconds, so not too bad. I saw another post stating holding for ~60 seconds may be needed. I'm wondering how long is too long...

I've never seen the indicator glow, but I did feel the heat when I put my thumb on it this morning, so it appears to be intact.

Cleaning corroded grounds is never a wasted effort. THanks for the test suggestion. I'll post back.


Edit: There's a frozen lever on the front of the valve cover that certainly looks like it would be pulled by a cable going to the decompression knob on the dash. I suppose that with full compression, I can expect nothing but a bit of a sluggish start 1st thing...

 

[Russell King]

The decompression lever is that lever at the front of the valve cover. It is probably frozen in place so will need some good penetrating oil sprayed on it. There should be a spring to force it back to compression position. You may need to move it by hand to get it moving freely.

The run position is to the right (sitting on the tractor). The cable pulls it toward the left.
You can get the cable from the dealer (probably). It is like a choke cable or throttle cable on a small gas engine. Very easy to install but you may have to get the dash and cowl loose or off to get it routed correctly.