Installed telescoping stabilizers on 3-point hitch, PTO driveshaft is grinding on them

[serendipitist]

I upgraded my threaded 3-point hitch stabilizers to the nicer telescoping versions. I got them installed today and I am having an issue with them and my rear deck mower. We live in a very hilly area, and when I go over a change in grade, or if I raise the three-point hitch up off the ground, the drive shaft for the PTO starts grinding against the stabilizer. Not only did it chew through the plastic housing on the outside, but it started digging into the metal of one of the stabilizers. I didn’t have this issue with the OEM stabilizers. I’m attaching some photos so you can see what I’m seeing, have I missed something here on my install?

 

[DustyRusty]

I have a BX23S and use a LandPride FDR1660 rear finish mower with a QH05 quick hitch and haven't had any problems with it hitting my stabilizer brackets. My stabilizer brackets are similar to yours except that they came from a larger tractor I modified 20 years ago to use on my BX22.
I don't know if a quick hitch will solve your problem. Check out this thread that I started a few weeks ago. You will note that the mower can float with my hookup with the optional upper plates. I didn't post a new photo after I took "flintknapper's" suggestions, however, he helped to resolve my issues.

Is this attached correctly?

Tractor BX23S / QH05 with Land Pride FDR 1660. I know the shields are not on the driveshaft. Right now I am test-fitting everything, and the shields will go on once everything is settled.

www.orangetractortalks.com

Edit: I just checked and the part I added is called a LandPride Floating Link Bar. I did find the part on Messicks dot com #320-013A ($41.54). I also ordered a bunch of 3/4" I.D. flat washers to take up the slop in the linkage. I will try to get a picture tomorrow. Check with your dealer to make sure that these part numbers are correct for your application if you believe that this will resolve your problem.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Flip the stabilizers around.
You also need to use the cotter keys correctly
Both go through the hole then you bend the other end to keep them in.

 

[hodge]

Flip the stabilizers around.
You also need to use the cotter keys correctly
Both go through the hole then you bend the other end to keep them in.

The stabilizers are installed correctly. The pivot plate can be flipped upside down- it isn't concentric- and it will give more clearance.
I've seen the same issue numerous times, and it usually involves a larger than normal universal joint. The profile of the stabilizers is only marginally different than the clevis's of the turnbuckles, so driveshaft was either very close before, or was rubbing- just not as much as now.

My stabilizers are much thicker/heavier duty than those Chinese knockoffs. I use 3/8" flat plate, where that looks like 3/16" or 1/4", and I use bolts instead of clevis pins. I've only had a handful- less than 10- customers with interference issues with the PTO shaft, and in all cases, they had an exceptionally large universal joint (like what's on cat 2 implements). I've built and sold thousands of sets for BX's, so in most cases, there is no interference. It isn't a common condition.

 

[chim]

Flip the PLATE and let the bars as they are. Check the video below:

EDIT- Hodge posted while I was typing

 

[D2Cat]

The picture looking straight down makes it look like the mower could be centered better and would allow for more clearance.