New to tractor. Not as flexible as I use to be. I want something to drive up on that will raise the tractor a few inches. Would I need 2 or 4 ramps to make it level? Can you send where I can get the ramps
Fluid Changes
- Thread starter Clt1bkc
- Start date
Make your own from planks obtained at a sawmill, they will be safer than most plastic or tin ramps from an auto parts store. You can use a rope to drag them to the point of use. Most systems should be level for complete draining, so you should raise both ends.
NvRudder
Member
Equipment
L2501DT, LA525, R14's, Bison NVHA210 84" RB, Allied 60" SB, Diamond C 10k Dump
Try Rhino Ramps...got mine at Amazon...work great for tractor or truck transmission/transfer case work.
Jeff
I use a pair of 10k ramps with built in bottle jacks that can increase the height. They work great and I can add two jack stands and then lower the bottle jacks before pulling out the ramps. I got these off Amazon. Use DuckDuckGo or Google to search for them or there likeness. I always level with four 5k jack stands.
Attachments
DON’T TRUST PLASTIC ramps! And be suspicious of foreign-made welds that don’t have good penetration.
Make your own out of boards … Pine is fine. (NOT particle-board or MDF)
Make your own out of boards … Pine is fine. (NOT particle-board or MDF)
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You really shouldn’t need ramps to change fluids !! You got a beautiful garage a creeper board and stool on wheels.I have a L4701 I’m 54 years old no problem servicing Kubota well
You would need 4 for level !! You should just need a creeper board and a stool on wheels,tractors are very easily serviceable the way they set on tires.You have a great garage I service my L4701 on stone surface 2019 model very easy to service.
I have a creeper and a paved area. BUT the best thing I've found is simply a shiny piece of cardboard. I save the big pieces from things like flatscreen TV's and other packaging. Shiny side up I can slip all around easier than on my creeper. That provides a few extra inches clearance, being only 1/4" off the floor.
I also like to do the sloppy stuff over a section of grass or dirt. No spots to worry about if some drips here and there.
I do have a pair of sturdy formed steel ramps that my Dad bought me around 1990 for my first tractor - primarily to work on removing/replacing blades for sharpening on the belly mower. If I needed to get more clearance under the tractor I'd probably run the front onto the ramps and then raise the rear and put it on jack stands.
I also like to do the sloppy stuff over a section of grass or dirt. No spots to worry about if some drips here and there.
I do have a pair of sturdy formed steel ramps that my Dad bought me around 1990 for my first tractor - primarily to work on removing/replacing blades for sharpening on the belly mower. If I needed to get more clearance under the tractor I'd probably run the front onto the ramps and then raise the rear and put it on jack stands.
BTW… when I made my “board” ramps…. I saw no need to use hinges and latches. I just made them in two sections each. This allows the lower sections to be moved out of the way if I need to slide under the vehicle with the creeper.
I assembled the boards using deck screws. And chamfered the leading edges. And attached old seat belt webbing (actually boat trailer winch-strap) to the sides of each so I can easily carry them around.
It was a cheap way to have a durable, trustworthy set of ramps using lumber left-over from other projects. (and with the low “air-dams” beneath the front bumpers of cars these days…the first/lowest board is a bit longer so the air-dam/bumper doesn’t “drag” on the ramps….like so many commercial ramps do these days.)
I assembled the boards using deck screws. And chamfered the leading edges. And attached old seat belt webbing (actually boat trailer winch-strap) to the sides of each so I can easily carry them around.
It was a cheap way to have a durable, trustworthy set of ramps using lumber left-over from other projects. (and with the low “air-dams” beneath the front bumpers of cars these days…the first/lowest board is a bit longer so the air-dam/bumper doesn’t “drag” on the ramps….like so many commercial ramps do these days.)
4000 pound metal ramps
2000 each wheel…
2000 each wheel…
I hate to post this… those are the Very Type that Bent under the weight of my little 9N Ford when I rolled one rear wheel slightly off-center on it.
Elliott in GA
Well-known member
Equipment
LX 2610SU w/535,LP RCR1860,FDR1660,SGC0554,FSP500, DD BBX60005
I couple of weeks ago, I did my 200 hrs. service (plus replaced both air filters, fuel filter and the Hydraulic filter - not just the transmission filter). I just used a piece of cardboard - the cardboard is also great to leave under it overnight to catch any late drips.
mcmxi
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
***Current*** M6060HDC, MX6000HSTC & GL7000 ***Sold*** MX6000HST & BX25TLB
Perhaps you can dig a hole and make a service pit!
My uncle had one and it was very useful for oil changes and such. If there was a downside it was putting the large pieces of lumber back over the pit, and the fact that a hole in the ground is a storage room for some.
Personally, I wouldn't use the plastic ones on anything but a flat, paved surface. I use them for quick services on the cars. But that is only 2 wheels. For 4 wheels I would use 2x10 planks bolted together. Similar to what is posted above.
Never, ever trust your life with HF products.
Never, ever trust your life with HF products.