Fixing hole in side of block
- Thread starter joesmith123
- Start date
Russell King
Well-known member
Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
@joesmith123
in the video when it first started (in your post #603) I noticed that the whole fuel limit assembly was unscrewing when it ran. So I assume that it is really loose and needs to be properly adjusted and then tightened up. How is that done? I have no idea!
in the video when it first started (in your post #603) I noticed that the whole fuel limit assembly was unscrewing when it ran. So I assume that it is really loose and needs to be properly adjusted and then tightened up. How is that done? I have no idea!
Got rest of parts close to clean and then paint
Got 2 pallets close to tractor, brought all parts that need blue including front axle using 3 point lift on bx1500
@Russell King
in this image, I try to show yall how that adjustment works; that nut adjust the point that stop the fork from going too far forward
I think I pulled it out too far, and it allowed the fork to go too far forward, and let the pin on the injection pump come OUT of its slot
What happens if I try to run it with this port open, and the other port that shows the injection pump latch? That way, I can monitor what happens and we can get to solving this area
My suspicion: if idling and not too high rpm, it shouldn't be pushing out too much oil out of these ports and it should be possible to make the idle adjustment with these ports open
I know we saw oil come out of them during the runaway but maybe thats because the rpm was high and oil pressure very high
Move parts to pallet in shade, first cleaning: brush them with diesel brush, get the big stuff with files, hit with compressed air
Files and brush in bucket of diesel
Upgrade to the solvent puddle: if left open, it evaporate and is lost
I put in jar that closes, now it last longer and keep close when you need clean hand
Hit parts to paint with: compressed air with file, then soaked in diesel with big paint brush, then wire wheels
Lift axle with bx1500, do that cleaning I narrated
Hit front axle with everything
All parts ready to be painted blue
Paint gun: 32 ounce canister
Next: hit everything with compressed air, part cleaner, poke hole in enamel blue gallon, pour into paint canister, water it down with paint thinner, go through and hit all parts from all angle, small mist no runs
I haven't looked at paint, hopefully it match
Got 2 pallets close to tractor, brought all parts that need blue including front axle using 3 point lift on bx1500
@Russell King
in this image, I try to show yall how that adjustment works; that nut adjust the point that stop the fork from going too far forward
I think I pulled it out too far, and it allowed the fork to go too far forward, and let the pin on the injection pump come OUT of its slot
What happens if I try to run it with this port open, and the other port that shows the injection pump latch? That way, I can monitor what happens and we can get to solving this area
My suspicion: if idling and not too high rpm, it shouldn't be pushing out too much oil out of these ports and it should be possible to make the idle adjustment with these ports open
I know we saw oil come out of them during the runaway but maybe thats because the rpm was high and oil pressure very high
Move parts to pallet in shade, first cleaning: brush them with diesel brush, get the big stuff with files, hit with compressed air
Files and brush in bucket of diesel
Upgrade to the solvent puddle: if left open, it evaporate and is lost
I put in jar that closes, now it last longer and keep close when you need clean hand
Hit parts to paint with: compressed air with file, then soaked in diesel with big paint brush, then wire wheels
Lift axle with bx1500, do that cleaning I narrated
Hit front axle with everything
All parts ready to be painted blue
Paint gun: 32 ounce canister
Next: hit everything with compressed air, part cleaner, poke hole in enamel blue gallon, pour into paint canister, water it down with paint thinner, go through and hit all parts from all angle, small mist no runs
I haven't looked at paint, hopefully it match
Last edited:
Spread all parts on pallets, hit with cleaner then paint
Spread all parts on 3 pallets close to tractor
Took off more from engine, hit it one more time with 6 inch soft wire wheel, 1000 rpm
Back of tractor before cleaning and paint
youtube.com
Up close video of everything after 1 hit of part cleaner
Put tape over area you don't want paint
Enamel, paint thinner, drill holes in paint can, mix into canister
First coat
@Ktrim
Paint gallon is shown in picture next to paint thinner, match perfect
Put 2nd coat on everything, going through with headlight aiming paint gun up underneath machine, watch your fingers
Don't use all the paint, tomorrow flip all the parts etc and get the other side
Put 2nd coat on everything, still half gallon left of paint, put coat of black paint on air housing
Now that paint detour done, now I need put energy into planning forward:
hone in on the governor/injection pump latch/fork situation/front adjustment
I'm thinking: take out governor spring to remove the cover, try to pry up forks so it hold the latch better, if you cannot pry up fork, take out injection pump to get better leverage on the fork
Front adjustment bolt: I remember taking it out completely, I did alter the adjustment, I would need to either look at WSM and tinker with it until it is figured out
There is another adjustment, on the other side, that also has spring on it, that one was not touched
They even put plastic cover over them to keep them in place
Plan: get it to where the latch stay inside the fork, tinker with the front adjustment until you get it somewhat in its place, put intake manifold on for the choke plan like yall advise, try to get her started again with those ports open to keep eye on the latch of the injection pump, making sure it stay in the fork and not go right/full throttle, then
if successfully started and not running away, then make adjustment on the front pin that stop the fork front going too far forward, get it to idle at the desired rate
Huge task yall can advise on, I have been thinking about this for awhile, but recently have needed it.
I have 55 gallon barrels, they have thread on them, one big and one small to let air out. I want to use them as holders of different solvent, and would have a sealed line coming out of them and it would go to a lightweight small hose gun that I use to do whatever.
The hose would retract from high area so it stays off the ground, it would be small and lightweight, it would go far distance. Does not have to be high pressure. I can use small pump.
They would be holding solvent, plumbing coming out of them, going to a central pump, with switches depending on which tank I want to pull from. Also to fill them up, I take pickup truck and get get the solvent, and I want a way to pump out of them and into the barrel I want without too much effort/mess.
Tons of time/energy is wasted so far on this project these past few months in the handling of the solvent, tipping over barrels, carrying 5 gallon cans, etc. It is inefficient and it would help move the show forward.
Talk to me generally about this setup. Going into the barrels, it would need a siphon that pulls from bottom of barrel. How would setup the shaft that is tight to the line, and also screws onto the top of the barrel? I soon draw diagram outlining the whole thing.
Also, it is important for it to be easy to fill them back up without taking out all the plumbing
Spread all parts on 3 pallets close to tractor
Took off more from engine, hit it one more time with 6 inch soft wire wheel, 1000 rpm
Back of tractor before cleaning and paint
September 25, 2024
youtube.com
Up close video of everything after 1 hit of part cleaner
Put tape over area you don't want paint
Enamel, paint thinner, drill holes in paint can, mix into canister
First coat
@Ktrim
Paint gallon is shown in picture next to paint thinner, match perfect
Put 2nd coat on everything, going through with headlight aiming paint gun up underneath machine, watch your fingers
Don't use all the paint, tomorrow flip all the parts etc and get the other side
Put 2nd coat on everything, still half gallon left of paint, put coat of black paint on air housing
Now that paint detour done, now I need put energy into planning forward:
hone in on the governor/injection pump latch/fork situation/front adjustment
I'm thinking: take out governor spring to remove the cover, try to pry up forks so it hold the latch better, if you cannot pry up fork, take out injection pump to get better leverage on the fork
Front adjustment bolt: I remember taking it out completely, I did alter the adjustment, I would need to either look at WSM and tinker with it until it is figured out
There is another adjustment, on the other side, that also has spring on it, that one was not touched
They even put plastic cover over them to keep them in place
Plan: get it to where the latch stay inside the fork, tinker with the front adjustment until you get it somewhat in its place, put intake manifold on for the choke plan like yall advise, try to get her started again with those ports open to keep eye on the latch of the injection pump, making sure it stay in the fork and not go right/full throttle, then
if successfully started and not running away, then make adjustment on the front pin that stop the fork front going too far forward, get it to idle at the desired rate
Huge task yall can advise on, I have been thinking about this for awhile, but recently have needed it.
I have 55 gallon barrels, they have thread on them, one big and one small to let air out. I want to use them as holders of different solvent, and would have a sealed line coming out of them and it would go to a lightweight small hose gun that I use to do whatever.
The hose would retract from high area so it stays off the ground, it would be small and lightweight, it would go far distance. Does not have to be high pressure. I can use small pump.
They would be holding solvent, plumbing coming out of them, going to a central pump, with switches depending on which tank I want to pull from. Also to fill them up, I take pickup truck and get get the solvent, and I want a way to pump out of them and into the barrel I want without too much effort/mess.
Tons of time/energy is wasted so far on this project these past few months in the handling of the solvent, tipping over barrels, carrying 5 gallon cans, etc. It is inefficient and it would help move the show forward.
Talk to me generally about this setup. Going into the barrels, it would need a siphon that pulls from bottom of barrel. How would setup the shaft that is tight to the line, and also screws onto the top of the barrel? I soon draw diagram outlining the whole thing.
Also, it is important for it to be easy to fill them back up without taking out all the plumbing
Last edited:
Ktrim
Well-known member
Equipment
B2400, lA352 loader,3pth quick hitch/z122r zero turn/restored 52 farmall super a
What kind of paint?
I use off the shelf kubota paint 4:1 with xylene. Sprays nice
I use off the shelf kubota paint 4:1 with xylene. Sprays nice
Flip parts paint other side
Hit everything with compressed air
Flipped over everything
Go mix paint and apply
Moving metal to expose parts that need paint
2nd coat on everything, moved levers around getting small missed areas
Hit everything with compressed air
Flipped over everything
Go mix paint and apply
Moving metal to expose parts that need paint
2nd coat on everything, moved levers around getting small missed areas
Last edited:
Looks like a burglar/trespasser deterrent (aka booby trap)
to me. After that thing is finished with a man his pants will surely need to be hit hard with lots of laundry soap and hot water. 
