BX2380 Universal Joint Shaft Seized

[loves2cycle73]

My BX2380 sat outside over the Winter (mower deck was removed), now the universal joint shaft for the easy-over mower deck is seized up. I have tried a ton of PB blaster, heat, etc. I cannot get them to come apart. It will not let me engage the PTO on the mower deck since it will not slide. Any suggestions? I am seeing $500-$700 to replace the part.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Find 2 good sized heavy objects like a tractor or a tree or a truck, put a ratchet strap on each end.
Tighten the straps and it should pop the two parts apart.
Then clean a grease that shafts so they slide.
Keep parts like this out of the weather.

 

[85Hokie]

Before pulling apart - take a sharpie or a knife and make a mark along the axis so you will know how they go back together (there is ONLY way!) Spray some lube juice down and allow it to sit awhile. Then put some tension on the two ends.

ONCE apart - grease the male end well!

 

[Speed25]

^^ If you do this, make sure you cover the ends with heavy moving blankets or something to keep parts from potentially sling-shotting. I've seen too many winch-related things go wrong over the years with people not expecting that release of kinetic energy when something breaks free. Definitely like the idea though.

 

[Speed25]

As another option- by the joint, on the large side, hit both sides with two hammers at the same time. You don't need to hit it so hard that you'll bend anything, but the harmonic shock will often break things corrosion free. Maybe rotate it 90-degrees and do the same, but I've found this shock to break a lot of stuck things free.

 

[Dustball]

Check to see if the end of the tube/yoke is solid to the point where you can drill/tap a hole for a zerk fitting.

Knock the u-joint out, install a grease fitting, and pump the cavity full of grease. The hydraulic pressure should separate them assuming the grease is unable to escape past the splines if there's enough rust buildup.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

As another option- by the joint, on the large side, hit both sides with two hammers at the same time. You don't need to hit it so hard that you'll bend anything, but the harmonic shock will often break things corrosion free. Maybe rotate it 90-degrees and do the same, but I've found this shock to break a lot of stuck things free.

View attachment 152402

You have to be incredibly careful as this is a splined shaft and there is a hollow behind the splines and if you hammer on it and egg it out you will never get it apart.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Your shaft is on the left and it allows for dirt and debris to get packed behind the splines, making it Lock the shaft in place.

The new style is on the right and has splines the whole length to keep it from getting junk packed behind the splines.

You might drive the shaft in so the splines pop out the other end ( like this picture ), then wash out the back side.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Check to see if the end of the tube/yoke is solid to the point where you can drill/tap a hole for a zerk fitting.

Knock the u-joint out, install a grease fitting, and pump the cavity full of grease. The hydraulic pressure should separate them assuming the grease is unable to escape past the splines if there's enough rust buildup.

View attachment 152404

Won't work it's an open joke, not sealed on the back side.

 

[Russell King]

@North Idaho Wolfman

Please look at the direction it is hanging in post #1. If that was turned the other direction, could you then pour that outer tube ”full” of penetrating oil and let that soak the splines for a while?

I think from your pictures that would work. The come back in several to 24 hours and try to move it together and apart.

I have had success with PB Blaster breaking things loose that were severely rusted but time and patience were required. And there are other equally good penetrating solutions so I don’t want to start that argument (again).

 

[loves2cycle73]

Your shaft is on the left and it allows for dirt and debris to get packed behind the splines, making it Lock the shaft in place.

The new style is on the right and has splines the whole length to keep it from getting junk packed behind the splines.

View attachment 152411

You might drive the shaft in so the splines pop out the other end ( like this picture ), then wash out the back side.

View attachment 152412

Good to know!

 

[loves2cycle73]

@North Idaho Wolfman

Please look at the direction it is hanging in post #1. If that was turned the other direction, could you then pour that outer tube ”full” of penetrating oil and let that soak the splines for a while?

I think from your pictures that would work. The come back in several to 24 hours and try to move it together and apart.

I have had success with PB Blaster breaking things loose that were severely rusted but time and patience were required. And there are other equally good penetrating solutions so I don’t want to start that argument (again).

Actually that did it. I sprayed it full last night and let it set until this afternoon. Coming from a Jeep/Off-road perspective, I was weary to try very hard with the ratchet strap idea. I can see on the splines that there is one area with a larger gap so it should be easy to realign. Would it be better to coat it well with anti-seize or grease when I reassemble?

Thanks for the help everyone!

 

[85Hokie]

Actually that did it. I sprayed it full last night and let it set until this afternoon. Coming from a Jeep/Off-road perspective, I was weary to try very hard with the ratchet strap idea. I can see on the splines that there is one area with a larger gap so it should be easy to realign. Would it be better to coat it well with anti-seize or grease when I reassemble?

Thanks for the help everyone!

CLEAN the grooves inside and out best you can - grease and do a good bit of sliding to mate the two.