Just finished up replacing the Knuckle Pivot Seal on my BX2200D
Kt was too bad, the worst part was the Snap Ring and the CLEAN UP.
Sorry for the lack of picture. And less than stellar - How To -
I was covered in Gear Oil and didn’t want make my phone any more than necessary and make it stink .
1. Buy a good set of Snap Ring Pliers.
I bought the Quinn from harbor freight. They did NOT work.
You need a set with Larger insert. The ones I used where 2.15mm or .080”. (The pieces that go into the little hole on the snap ring)
They need to be sturdy, and if they locking that is even better.
Once you get the Knuckle free be VERY careful . I had a glob of grass/dirt that fell into the knuckle when I dropped it down off the housing. ( I refer to the housing as the part that stays on the tractor. The part that the Snap ring goes on. )
2. To remove the old upper race from the housing. I used a 1/2 wood chisel. worked great to tap between the race a housing to pry it off. I used a 2” PCV coupling on a short piece of 2” PVC to install the inner seal on the housing.
3. The Outer Seal that is in the knuckle, it was a bit harder to remove. I couldn’t get a seal puller to work.
I ended up driving a small flat head screwdriver between the seal and knuckle.
4. The Tie Rod End Nut was rusty, The old cotter pin was rusted pretty bad too, it came out in piece.
To separate the tie rod from the knuckle, I smacked it with a big hammer where it mounts to the knuckle.
The Tie Rod Castle Nut is only Torqued to about 20 ft/lb. That doesn’t seem like enough.
But never the less that’s what I torqued it too, then just a little more to line up the slots for the cotter pin.
An impact wrench helps get the nut started. Other wise it just want to spin in the knuckle.
5. Other than the Tie Rod end Torque Specs, the other specs seem pretty high to me.
The gear cover uses 14mm bolts that call for ~61 ft/lb. It felt like I was going to strip them out or break off the bolts by the time I got to 61 ft/lb. Next time I’ll just use LocTite and a 1/2” drive ratchet. And go by feel.
6. Gear oil stinks, and it’s hard to clean off.
You can figure 3 cans of brake parts cleaner per side.
7. there is only one way to get the Gear Cover out of the Knuckle.
Study the picture close. It only goes in and comes out this way.
Other wise, the gear catches the bolt holes.
You have to tilt it and then slide it out.
Picture for parts clarification
Housing
Knuckle (Right) and Gear Cover w/Gear (Left)
Kt was too bad, the worst part was the Snap Ring and the CLEAN UP.
Sorry for the lack of picture. And less than stellar - How To -
I was covered in Gear Oil and didn’t want make my phone any more than necessary and make it stink .
1. Buy a good set of Snap Ring Pliers.
I bought the Quinn from harbor freight. They did NOT work.
You need a set with Larger insert. The ones I used where 2.15mm or .080”. (The pieces that go into the little hole on the snap ring)
They need to be sturdy, and if they locking that is even better.
Once you get the Knuckle free be VERY careful . I had a glob of grass/dirt that fell into the knuckle when I dropped it down off the housing. ( I refer to the housing as the part that stays on the tractor. The part that the Snap ring goes on. )
2. To remove the old upper race from the housing. I used a 1/2 wood chisel. worked great to tap between the race a housing to pry it off. I used a 2” PCV coupling on a short piece of 2” PVC to install the inner seal on the housing.
3. The Outer Seal that is in the knuckle, it was a bit harder to remove. I couldn’t get a seal puller to work.
I ended up driving a small flat head screwdriver between the seal and knuckle.
4. The Tie Rod End Nut was rusty, The old cotter pin was rusted pretty bad too, it came out in piece.
To separate the tie rod from the knuckle, I smacked it with a big hammer where it mounts to the knuckle.
The Tie Rod Castle Nut is only Torqued to about 20 ft/lb. That doesn’t seem like enough.
But never the less that’s what I torqued it too, then just a little more to line up the slots for the cotter pin.
An impact wrench helps get the nut started. Other wise it just want to spin in the knuckle.
5. Other than the Tie Rod end Torque Specs, the other specs seem pretty high to me.
The gear cover uses 14mm bolts that call for ~61 ft/lb. It felt like I was going to strip them out or break off the bolts by the time I got to 61 ft/lb. Next time I’ll just use LocTite and a 1/2” drive ratchet. And go by feel.
6. Gear oil stinks, and it’s hard to clean off.
You can figure 3 cans of brake parts cleaner per side.
7. there is only one way to get the Gear Cover out of the Knuckle.
Study the picture close. It only goes in and comes out this way.
Other wise, the gear catches the bolt holes.
You have to tilt it and then slide it out.
Picture for parts clarification
Housing
Knuckle (Right) and Gear Cover w/Gear (Left)
