Been watching some videos on operating one of these. Will be my 1st time. One video showed raising the front so the blade won’t dig in to deep. Would like to hear from you seasoned box blade owners on anything I should do and don’t. Appreciate any help. It’s a 48 inch land pride box blade I picked up for $595. Will be using my 1880 to pull it.
Box blade tips
- Thread starter Bearcatrp
- Start date
You'll make a mess with it before you figure out how to use it correctly.... You'll need to adjust the toplink a whole lot to learn how it works. You'll wish you had a hydraulic toplink much sooner than later....
Attachments
^^^This^^^ But don't be discouraged.
What, exactly, do you want to accomplish with it? Your answer will help all on here with experience, and help you get where you need to be faster. It's not rocket science as you know, but a lot of trial and error time can be saved for you.
Runs With Scissors
Well-known member
Equipment
L2501 TLB , Grappel, Brush Hog, Box Blade, Ballast box, Forks, Tiller, PH digger
Every situation is different, however, I will point out my "mistake" when using mine for the first time.
I wanted to smooth out my gravel drive. There were some small, uneven areas developing.
So I put those ripper shanks down to "rough up" the surface, thinking that it would "speed up" the process.....
Well all that did was "pluck out" a sh!t ton of big ass, ankle breaker, rocks.
I should have just used the 'blade and box" to lightly go over it.
I got way to aggressive with it.
Don't be in a hurry.......Go slow, and take your time.
Thats my $.02
I wanted to smooth out my gravel drive. There were some small, uneven areas developing.
So I put those ripper shanks down to "rough up" the surface, thinking that it would "speed up" the process.....
Well all that did was "pluck out" a sh!t ton of big ass, ankle breaker, rocks.
I should have just used the 'blade and box" to lightly go over it.
I got way to aggressive with it.
Don't be in a hurry.......Go slow, and take your time.
Thats my $.02
OP,
I'll add that with the BX Series, we don't have position control so you'll need to be aware of your box blade height each time you lower it. You'll eventually get the hang of fiddling with the 3pt control to get the height even between consecutive passes. Also, if progressing across really uneven ground sudden changes in elevation can cause problems. For example, as the front tires roll down into depressions (think driving across a small ditch) the back of your box blade will raise up causing you to deposit unwanted material.
Good luck, hope this helps.
I'll add that with the BX Series, we don't have position control so you'll need to be aware of your box blade height each time you lower it. You'll eventually get the hang of fiddling with the 3pt control to get the height even between consecutive passes. Also, if progressing across really uneven ground sudden changes in elevation can cause problems. For example, as the front tires roll down into depressions (think driving across a small ditch) the back of your box blade will raise up causing you to deposit unwanted material.
Good luck, hope this helps.
For me, using a box blade on a gravel driveway, this was the most annoying part. I can't say I've ever totally solved it either - as far as I can tell, it's just a basic limitation to a rear-mounted implement on a small tractor. (pushing the fill backwards at least on a few passes does help, though)
It is THE reason road graders have a long wheelbase.
As Scissors notes, go slow. It's definitely possible (actually likely) you and a box blade will make your gravel driveway worse, at least initially. You need to get proficient at 'feathering' your 3PH lift control. Sometimes slow forward speed and 'float' helps.
All this assumes OP is using the box blade on a gravel drive. If it's to be used for grading or backfill around new construction, for example, a different 'learning process' is at play.
All that said, the box blade has been a great value for me - I've pushed and pulled around countless tons of misplaced material, with generally good results.
One more thing to add... that back dragging the heel of the FEL (with a load in the bucket and in "float" mode) will help smooth out mistakes faster than trying to make everything perfect with just the box blade!!!
If you don't know what float mode, just ask...
For those that are new, pushing the joystick forward, lowers the bucket but if you push it further forward, it will click into a detente which holds the joystick in the up most position allowing hydraulic fluid to flow in and out of the lift cylinders freely, not putting down pressure nor carrying any weight. Using the heel of the bucket, dragging backwards feathers out rough sections.
For those that are new, pushing the joystick forward, lowers the bucket but if you push it further forward, it will click into a detente which holds the joystick in the up most position allowing hydraulic fluid to flow in and out of the lift cylinders freely, not putting down pressure nor carrying any weight. Using the heel of the bucket, dragging backwards feathers out rough sections.
Last edited:
On these tiny tractors I find it a lot easier to use the bucket to do the heavy lifting of knocking down high spots and filling low and then just using the box blade to finish. As others have said, a short wheel base will leave you constantly adjusting the box blade with every bump and dip.
I made sure when I bought this tractor it has a float mode. Used to operate large loaders years ago. Was using it yesterday on a few spots in the driveway. Want to get it as level as possible before bringing in some class II. Has someone plow my driveway this past winter. Didn’t know he used his blower. Have about third of my class II I laided down last year blown into my yard. Allot of raking coming up.
The short wheelbase comment is very true. I often found using a crosshatch, or X, pattern helped make an area more even. If you just go back and forth, it's very hard to get the height adjustments just right so you gather material in the high areas and deposit it in the low spots. You can even end up making the dips and humps worse instead of of better. By alternating between back/forth and crosshatch you eventually get an area that is more flat.
trikepilot
Member
Equipment
B2620HSD w/ LA364 & BH65, 48SQ Bush Hog, LandPride RB1560, Woods 5ft Box Blade,
SOOOOO True!!! I just got a rear hydraulic toplink installed and it makes a world of difference. Some weight on the box blade, I feel, also helps with adjusting or feathering the blade/ground contact to get it to effectively do what you want. And you will most definitely screw things up on the driveway as you learn. The good thing is - it is gravel and easily moved back into place. I have 0.6mi of gravel driveway to maintain. I have found the box blade best for the heavy lifting of repairing ruts, spreading new gravel, and re-crowning. For the more frequent "dressing" of the driveway, I picked up a stout drag harrow that lets me quickly and easily smooth out the gravel. The box blade and drag harrow complement each other very nicely. Tines down to rough up and redistribute gravel and then tines up to smooth it all over.
Blue2Orange
New member
Equipment
BX2380 with LA344S & QH05. SB1051. SG0554. BB1248. RB0560, Vassar dirt bucket
Also a newbie to box blade. Couple decades of just using a back blade to "smooth" out the driveway and trails. The transitions from up to down and down to up have been at times challenging. Lot of smoothing "back blading" with the loader bucket.
Dealer shop person noted he used the scrapper box to "level" his driveway. Available for rent at the dealership. If just minor valleys and high points vs. deep wash outs. Best maybe to use the scrapper box to level everything before using the box blade to spread new gravel?
Dealer shop person noted he used the scrapper box to "level" his driveway. Available for rent at the dealership. If just minor valleys and high points vs. deep wash outs. Best maybe to use the scrapper box to level everything before using the box blade to spread new gravel?