belt tension gauge for mower deck?

[MAArcher]

Does anyone use a belt tension gauge for their mower decks? I'm wondering if the cheap amazon ones work. I only mow three acres with a good condition Land Pride 60" FDR2560 finish mower and I have to replace the belts two or three times a season. I haven't tried the $100 belts from the dealer, I've been using $20 belts from V-Belt guys and I just put on a D&D Power Drive belt and have a Dayco on the way as a back up. Hoping to find one that works.

I can't find any play in the deck and although there's some visible vibration in the belt at low speeds when I throttle up it seems to go away. The only think I can think of that might be causing the belts to where prematurely is that I'm not adjusting the tension correctly. So I'm hoping to find a way to precisely adjust to 7-10lbs of force at 1/4" deflection.

 

[mcmxi]

I have an OTC 6673 belt tension gauge that works well. I use it on my Jeep TJ mostly, and would consider using it on the Del Morino flail but I don't have a spec for belt tension.

Your belt life does seem excessive to put it mildly, but maybe you're running the mower 8 hours a day for months on end though.

 

[85Hokie]

I only mow three acres with a good condition Land Pride 60" FDR2560 finish mower and I have to replace the belts two or three times a season. I haven't tried the $100 belts from the dealer, I've been using $20 belts from V-Belt guys and I just put on a D&D Power Drive belt and have a Dayco on the way as a back up. Hoping to find one that works.

I can't find any play in the deck and although there's some visible vibration in the belt at low speeds when I throttle up it seems to go away. The only think I can think of that might be causing the belts to where prematurely is that I'm not adjusting the tension correctly. So I'm hoping to find a way to precisely adjust to 7-10lbs of force at 1/4" deflection.

Not trying to be ugly - but try one of the "expensive belts" and see if that helps. Sometimes it IS what you pay for is what you really get.

 

[lugbolt]

yup I agree with hokie here.

people often think that a belt is a belt and that's not always the case. Sure some chincanese company can make a belt the same vee, same width, same length and just sell it for $20 vs the OEM $100 but we have to ask ourselves, why are they cheaper? One, they're less expensive to make (WHY??) and two, that's exactly how certain companies do business--make it cheap, sell it cheap, and sell many-regardless of what kind of quality it carries (if any at all).

went through all of this with the old generation one Kommanders, people would tear the belts up and go buy a chinese belt from napa, just to tear it up in 5 hours use. I was doing training on them at DFW and found out that the OE belts had kevlar inside of them, and a fabric sheath on the outside (covered by "rubber"). The kevlar added strength (it don't stretch) and the sheath helped reduce running temperature. there's more to it, but those were the highlights of the class Kevlar isn't exactly cheap compared to nylon or "cotton" cords but most people didn't care about the cost since $20 was cheaper than $80, I mean, they could buy 4 of the chincanese belts for the price of ONE kubota belt, right? But then wonder why it keeps breaking when we drop the deck into the DIRT and then turn the blades on at full RPM.

 

[kcs 61]

I’ve got the same problem with my FDR1660. It ate up the OEM belt so I bought one from Amazon. Ate that one too. Looks like it is tearing off the outer covering. Talked to the dealer and he said there is no tension adjustment for the belt. The spring does that He told me most of the time it’s the tensioner pulley or the tensioner arm.

 

[PaulL]

yup I agree with hokie here.

people often think that a belt is a belt and that's not always the case. Sure some chincanese company can make a belt the same vee, same width, same length and just sell it for $20 vs the OEM $100 but we have to ask ourselves, why are they cheaper? One, they're less expensive to make (WHY??) and two, that's exactly how certain companies do business--make it cheap, sell it cheap, and sell many-regardless of what kind of quality it carries (if any at all).

went through all of this with the old generation one Kommanders, people would tear the belts up and go buy a chinese belt from napa, just to tear it up in 5 hours use. I was doing training on them at DFW and found out that the OE belts had kevlar inside of them, and a fabric sheath on the outside (covered by "rubber"). The kevlar added strength (it don't stretch) and the sheath helped reduce running temperature. there's more to it, but those were the highlights of the class Kevlar isn't exactly cheap compared to nylon or "cotton" cords but most people didn't care about the cost since $20 was cheaper than $80, I mean, they could buy 4 of the chincanese belts for the price of ONE kubota belt, right? But then wonder why it keeps breaking when we drop the deck into the DIRT and then turn the blades on at full RPM.

There's two different sorts of Chinese stuff.

There's the "it's made in the same factory by the same guy, but we sell it out the back door not the front door" type. And there's the "we make it with the cheapest materials we can find, and it's kind of the same size but not the same thing at all" type.

It's very hard to tell which you're buying. The first set can be pretty good buying. No middlemen.

I remember being in China on business and running out of black business socks. And a town nearby could sell me socks. But only in a pack of 100. But the pack of 100 was going to cost about what I'd pay for 1 pair at home. It is incredible how cheap it actually is to make a lot of the stuff we buy, even with kevlar in the middle and sheath and all the rest of it. The exporter adds 50%, the importer adds 50%, the wholesaler adds 50%, the retailer adds 50%. There is value to be had out there. But it's hard to find it.

 

[TheOldHokie]

Not trying to be ugly - but try one of the "expensive belts" and see if that helps. Sometimes it IS what you pay for is what you really get.

COROLLARY

You only get what you pay for and sometimes not even that

As I discovered "the hard way" a $30 aramide (aka Kevlsr) belt from V-belt Guys is not a suitable substitute for a genuine WOODS belt from the dealer. Same section and materials but no where close to same tensile strength. The lesson cost me more in busted aftermarket belts than the OEM belt which I ultimately purchased from Messicks.

Dan

 

[MAArcher]

The manual called for a quarter inch deflection at 7-10 lbs. I got a cheap 10lb gauge off Amazon and couldn’t believe how far off I was, way to loose. I used a square held against the deck for the reference point. Hopefully having the right tension helps.

Dealer parts may be of good quality, but it’s almost always significantly over priced and you can often find the same part made by the same factory or an OEM equivalent part for less. In the case of this belt, I’m sure I’ll find one that’s reasonable. I’ll pass the info on if I do.

 

[Old Machinist]

I've had some issues with the generic belts they are selling at Tractor Supply. The old "Kevlar" belts they use to sell were great. I have some of those that have been running for years. Their new brand doesn't say "Kevlar" on the packaging and they are not lasting for me.

Brand name mowers have a habit of using odd length belts you can't source in generic sizes. I will usually round down to the shorter generic size and get "Kevlar" if I can find it.

Make sure you aren't using a 1/2" or 4L belt where a 5/8" or 5L belt is needed. How are your belts fitting in the pulleys? If they are riding to deep you may need wider belts. Same goes if the belt is riding too high in the pully you may need a narrower belt.

I usually adjust fixed tension belts to about a 1/2" deflection on a moderate push. If you want to get more exact you could get a fish scale and pull on the belt with that.

 

[TheOldHokie]

Dealer parts may be of good quality, but it’s almost always significantly over priced and you can often find the same part made by the same factory or an OEM equivalent part for less. In the case of this belt, I’m sure I’ll find one that’s reasonable. I’ll pass the info on if I do.

Thats exactly what I thought. I tried multiple sources selling "OEM equivalent" aramid belts. None were even close. Gates sells a "super heavy duty" belt that might be satisfactory but it costs more than the Woods belt. Its also rumored Gates makes the Woods belts

Good luck,

Dan

 

[Donystoy]

Proper oem type Kevlar belts are a must on these types of mowers as has been frequently discussed here. I tried regular "Gates" belts on mine and was lucky to get a year out of them. They just cannot handle the horsepower.

 

[StephenR]

I have had belts that lost the outer belt and didn't last for a whole yard mowing, 4 hours. I found the pulleys had rough edges, so I replaced them and put a new Kevlar belt from Amazon on the mower. It has mowed the yard 3 times, and it still looks really good.

 

[D2Cat]

Some belts are designed to run on pulleys only, no idler putting tension on the back of the belt. When the belt is running with the tensioner heating/wearing on the back side belt life is shortened quickly. Need to use the belt designed for the application.

 

[MAArcher]

Proper oem type Kevlar belts are a must on these types of mowers as has been frequently discussed here. I tried regular "Gates" belts on mine and was lucky to get a year out of them. They just cannot handle the horsepower.

If I can find a $20 belt that lasts a year I’ll be happy. That’s five years for $100, the cost of one dealer belt that could get burned up by jamming one tree branch or dog toy you ran over by accident your first time out with it.

The belts that on there now says its a "D&D Power*drive b - 103 4318" and I can't find any info on it so we'll see how long it lasts. The other belt I got is a "Dayco Wrapped Industrial belt PB103" which is the next I'll try.

The stock one isn't blue or gray covered, its all black, but its supposed to be Kevlar (aramid). 5/8 wide with 103" id, 106" od.

Hopefully it was just a tension issue but time will tell I guess.

Should there be any play at all in the idler pulleys? Mine does have a little.

 

[DustyRusty]

Does anyone use a belt tension gauge for their mower decks? I'm wondering if the cheap amazon ones work. I only mow three acres with a good condition Land Pride 60" FDR2560 finish mower and I have to replace the belts two or three times a season. I haven't tried the $100 belts from the dealer, I've been using $20 belts from V-Belt guys and I just put on a D&D Power Drive belt and have a Dayco on the way as a back up. Hoping to find one that works.

I can't find any play in the deck and although there's some visible vibration in the belt at low speeds when I throttle up it seems to go away. The only think I can think of that might be causing the belts to where prematurely is that I'm not adjusting the tension correctly. So I'm hoping to find a way to precisely adjust to 7-10lbs of force at 1/4" deflection.

I just was looking to see what I could find for a belt for your FDR2560 and one of the websites that I looked at has this "warning". Possibly this could be the reason you are having belt problems. You are getting the wrong belt for the mower.

THERE IS TWO DIFFERENT BELTS
FOR THIS MODEL​

 

[lugbolt]

Thats exactly what I thought. I tried multiple sources selling "OEM equivalent" aramid belts. None were even close. Gates sells a "super heavy duty" belt that might be satisfactory but it costs more than the Woods belt. Its also rumored Gates makes the Woods belts

Good luck,

Dan

someone makes kubota belts too. That doesn't mean that Gates you buy at Napa and the belt that you buy at a woods dealer is the same belt, though

similarly yamaha. I had to do a 3 week GRUELING class on....engine oil. Yamalube is made by someone else. Sure is. Thing is, though, the additive package is different to suit motorcycle use (transmissions, wet clutches, etc) and if you bought it at a parts store under the other brand, it's completely different-even though it's made by so-and-so.

kubota fluids too. Oil comes out of the same place as the place that makes other brands, but it's not the same exact stuff.

never ceases to amaze me that folks will go to a dealer & buy equipment, but they'll never set foot back in that dealer to buy any parts because "overpriced". Then next time you need, say a belt, napa is out of em and your last resort is the dealer. You head to the dealer to find out that they've closed up shop....cause ya didn't support them other than an initial sale of the equipment. If you don't support the dealer, they won't support you.

 

[Donystoy]

The mower that came with my B7200 in 1985 and that I sold last year still unbelievably had the original factory belt. Since around 2005 I regularly cut around five acres with it until I bought my zero turn four years ago. Prior to that I used it on a 3/4 acre lot.
The Ariens zero turn that I now use has a skinny half inch Kevlar belt. It just amazes me as to how it stands up to cutting sometimes 12" thick grass. I do have a spare belt for it just in case.

 

[TheOldHokie]

The mower that came with my B7200 in 1985 and that I sold last year still unbelievably had the original factory belt. Since around 2005 I regularly cut around five acres with it until I bought my zero turn four years ago. Prior to that I used it on a 3/4 acre lot.
The Ariens zero turn that I now use has a skinny half inch Kevlar belt. It just amazes me as to how it stands up to cutting sometimes 12" thick grass. I do have a spare belt for it just in case.

I bought my Woods mower around 1995 and up until a year ago it had the original belt on it. I had to replace it because one of the spindle pulleys broke and chewed it up otherwise ot would still be going strong.

Dan

 

[MAArcher]

I just was looking to see what I could find for a belt for your FDR2560 and one of the websites that I looked at has this "warning". Possibly this could be the reason you are having belt problems. You are getting the wrong belt for the mower.

THERE IS TWO DIFFERENT BELTS
FOR THIS MODEL​

Where did you find that? Massick’s only has one belt listed.

 

[mikester]

who needs for torque or tension tools!

Does anyone use a belt tension gauge for their mower decks?

Popeye says "I eats me spinach and me arm is me gauge"