Ballast counter weight for claw grapple

[Blue2Orange]

Any approximate amount of counter weight recommended for the 54" Kubota (land pride) claw grapple?

Keeping the 90's vintage 7ft back blade. Guessing around #300. Only real counter weight owned. Which would be close to the max lift weight of the grapple. Good enough? But the plan might be to build up a 3 pt carry all if enough weight can be hauled on it to counter the grapple. Bit less clunky in tighter quarters v. the blade and a place to haul the chainsaw plus other tools.

 

[Old Machinist]

If you don't have any other ballast like loaded tires or wheel weights a good rule of thumb is to match the capacity of the loader. If the loader will pick up 1200 lbs stick as close to that on the back as you can.

 

[BX25D Rookie]

I built this three point counterweight for my BX from an empty solvent barrel and scrap steel.
It is filled with concrete and it's ~ 450 pounds.
It's in close and tight to the rear of the machine, with about half of the counterweight forward
of the ends of the three point arms. it's tough to get it in much closer.

IMG_20230920_164800040_HDR by cee_Kamp 32ACP, on Flickr

I have some basic instructions and work-in-progress photos here: Page #3 of this thread, Post #44.

Buying several Kubota tractors, building a Camp, and maintaining 69 acres of recreational/hunting property.

Had to dig a hole under the "crooked" pine tree. It's the Pet Cemetery under that tree. Stepdaughter had a Guinea Pig which passed during winter when the ground was frozen. Kept it in the spare freezer until we had nice weather again. IMG_20200526_180458356_HDR by cee_Kamp 32ACP, on Flickr...

www.orangetractortalks.com

Was it you asking about the chronic failure point with the BX tractor tie rod ends rubber boots/seals?
Yes, they do dry rot and fall apart.
Easily repaired aftermarket. I changed out my BX tie rod ends boots/seals so dirt/water didn't get in them and cause them to wear out prematurely. See the above thread, Post #104 & #105 on Page 6.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Your BX can lift 680 lbs, so counter weight should not exceed that.

 

[Trustable]

I don’t have a grapple or the same tractor - but I highly recommend doing what @BX25D Rookie did. I did something similar and it works great! I used 11 bags of concrete, an old plastic drum my neighbor gave me, a tsc drawbar, and my neighbor also welded up some thick steel to the bar for the top link pin. the bags were 50lbs each so theoretically It weighs at least 550lbs. I use it primarily when I’m working in the woods, lifting, and doing anything with the bucket w/o box blade. I also put weep holes in the bucket for drainage, as well as a pvc pipe to carry shovels, brooms, logging tools, or whatever else I need. Not the best looking weight, but it works

 

[NordTrac]

I don’t have a grapple or the same tractor - but I highly recommend doing what @BX25D Rookie did. I did something similar and it works great! I used 11 bags of concrete, an old plastic drum my neighbor gave me, a tsc drawbar, and my neighbor also welded up some thick steel to the bar for the top link pin. the bags were 50lbs each so theoretically It weighs at least 550lbs. I use it primarily when I’m working in the woods, lifting, and doing anything with the bucket w/o box blade. I also put weep holes in the bucket for drainage, as well as a pvc pipe to carry shovels, brooms, logging tools, or whatever else I need. Not the best looking weight, but it works View attachment 152091 View attachment 152092 View attachment 152093

Nice design! Looks pretty much like what I'm trying to put together.

Couple questions:

1- what's the height from bottom to the drawbar?
2- what's the distance between the drawbar and the top link connection point?

Merci,
e

 

[Trustable]

Thanks!

1 - height from ground to top of drawbar is about 18 inches


2 - height from bottom of the drawbar to the top link is about 21 inches.

That being said - I did not do it by measurements when I cut the holes. I backed the tractor up to the barrel and ensured it was in between the three point. Then just lifted the three point until I thought it was at a good spot where I could barely lift the barrel to get it off the ground. For the top link, after I had a drawbar and I just tried to see how high the top link could go before it came close to hitting the tractor, then went below that. A lot of trial and error basically but since the barrel was empty it wasn’t bad to figure it out. As you can see in the pictures, there’s a lot more room for more concrete so you could easily fit on the other 5 to 6 bags in at least. Also I do not have any rebar in there. I figured since it’s in a thick container with the drawbar and bar stock that should be plenty. I’ve seen videos or some people cut the container off and in that case, I’d recommend Rebar, but I think it acts as an extra protective measure.

 

[Old Machinist]

Any approximate amount of counter weight recommended for the 54" Kubota (land pride) claw grapple?

Keeping the 90's vintage 7ft back blade. Guessing around #300. Only real counter weight owned. Which would be close to the max lift weight of the grapple. Good enough? But the plan might be to build up a 3 pt carry all if enough weight can be hauled on it to counter the grapple. Bit less clunky in tighter quarters v. the blade and a place to haul the chainsaw plus other tools.

You need to consider the weight of the grapple in addition to what it picks up.

According to the lift capacity the wolfman says you have you would be about halfway there with the blade. You could add another 300 lbs to that and be on target.

I have a 500+ lb box blade I added 300 lbs of barbell weights and two suitcase weights to for my JD tractor. I just had to notch the back of the top lip on the box blade to make clearance for the suitcase weights and I went ahead and welded those tabs on as a side stabilizer. They don't budge in use.

 

[D2Cat]

Neighbor game me weights off of a weight machine he was scrapping. I had an old dirt scoop that most people use for a yard ornament which I modified. Each weight had the weight stamped on it. I think there is 1000# pounds in the scoop.

 

[Blue2Orange]

Skid steerer style quick attach on the loader. From what I've been told the max lift is reduced vs. straight pin attachment. Have to check the specific max load.

Counter weight for safe operation and.... An excuse for a box blade and/or a dump style carry all 3pt implement. The Split-Fire box on paper is interesting, but a bit too pricey. Plus now add the additional import tariff costs for Made on Canada. Looking at a carry all by Titan at 1/4 the price, but limited to just carry and dump. From what I understand Titan is a Chinese company. Unsure of the quality. Will check the dealer's inventory of used implements and hope.

Old neighbor moved back to his family farm about 20 mile drive from here. He is a competent welder. Might need him to weld up a bucket similar to the above image. Joe creates some interesting non functional pieces. Another neighbor purchased one of Joe's spider made out of stuff sitting around in his piles of odds and ends. Looks like landscape rake tines for legs. He did design and had a small company purchase the rights to build a 3pt implement that sort of looks like pallet forks, but designed to pick up logs and hold them for transport. Will need to check the costs and if he can build me one.

 

[Blue2Orange]

Dirt scoop. Another option. Thanks for the post.

 

[Blue2Orange]

I now own a Vassar dirt scoop. Made in the USA.

Dealer had 4 "antiques" sitting around. Definitely too wide a bottom link spread in 3. Vassar design allow for both in or out positioning if using as a back scoop v. reverse. Previous owner has the pin mounted inwards. Just need to move the pins ~1/2 inch more inwards. ~1" of thread to play with. Need to find an adapter to allow using the QH05. Bottom link pins are fine. Top pin position for engaging the hook is a bit off. Worst case "slow hitching".

 

[GreensvilleJay]

I think the SSQA adapter 'robs' you of 80#,so a 4 scoop load becomes 5. Not a big deal for me.