B3200HSD Loader Arm (lever) Block and curl control ball link replacement.

[jkahan]

B3200HSD Loader Arm (lever) Block and curl control ball link replacement.

Big ask -- hoping someone can tell me how to actually replace a failed part. PIA in terms of space and acces. The ball link (part of loader arm assembly) that controls my loader curl failed. The screw that goes into the loader lever block sheared off; I've removed the block and have a new one on order (as well as a new ball link). Am thinking the only way to actually replace the ball link is to remove the metal bracket around the whole assembly. Any help would be greatly appreciated. thanks - josh

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Remove the pin and pull straight up.

 

[jkahan]

Remove the pin and pull straight up.

View attachment 128893

thanks for the info - I finally remembered what I did 4 years ago when the same parts failed. Will post photos and info shortly (just waiting for one more replacement part to arrive). again; thanks.

 

[jkahan]

To beat a dead (but now fixed) horse... here is some more info on the Kubota B3200HSD Loader Lever Assembly - Other B models might be very similar.

Twice now, once four years ago, and again this week, the interface between the loader lever (operator control arm) and the hydraulic valve failed. Both times, bucket curl functionality was lost. The curl function is achieved by a bolt interface into a metal block beneath the loader operator control lever. This curl bolt /link is subject to stress (stripped bolt) over time.

Below is a photo of the lever assembly (fully assembled) and a markup of the same area. I've also included a snapshot of Kubota diagram F15200.
I usually use Kubota's Parts site (KubotaPad) and Messicks for diagram and parts help. I have had awesome results working with my local dealer, Messicks, and Coleman Equipment. Diagrams J28002 and J28400 are also useful; Part numbers are found on F15200 (but not shown in this post).

Repair Protocol for Lever Block and Curl link.
Obvious (easy) stuff - remove seat, tool box, plastic shield, right side metal shield, metal support beam, and of course, the loader (operator control) lever. This will allow one to remove the metal block (010 in the diagram below) that the loader lever is attached to. The horizontal metal support beam has to be removed to gain access to the bolt (060) that attaches the lever block into the metal bracket. There is also a collar (050) in the block that this bolt slides thru. Despite what I have read, it is IMPOSSIBLE (at least on the B3200HSD) to replace the curl interface (part 030 and stuff below it if necessary) without removing this metal bracket - not hard to do - just 4 easily accessible bolts and a spring (part #130); Diagram J28002 shows how this bracket attached to a bracket on top of the hydraulic valve.

Anycase - maybe this is obvious to some but its a once in a blue moon problem (or at least once every 4 years) for me. While I am grateful for the comments and help that I received, here and elsewhere, I did want to point out that on the B3200HSD it is IMPOSSIBLE to do this repair without removing the stuff noted above.

thanks for listening
-josh

 

[trikepilot]

Found this writeup as I had the same failure on my B2620 on Saturday. I got it all disassembled and ordered the new rod end.

Kubota #45404-95770 END, ROD (CREEP

END, ROD (CREEP

www.messicks.com

Hope to put it all back together this coming weekend and be back working. Will follow up with how it all went to add to the collective knowledge for others who find this thread.

I found this youtube video that I post for posterity despite the fact that he does not film any of the interesting parts.

 

[trikepilot]

Further update for those that follow me down the rabbit hole on this issue loader curl issue.

The part # required is:

#45404-95770 END, ROD (CREEP)

I linked the part at Messicks above but it is more expensive, has shipping costs, and takes longer to get to you. For cheaper and faster part use this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0D3YS2B6H?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

I ordered Sunday night and it arrived Tuesday. I came out to the farm after work on weds and had it all reassembled and working perfectly in 30 mins.

This is not a hard DIY repair. It is a bit finicky to get access in there and some long skinny hemostats really made it pretty painless.