B3030 Top and Tilt Hydraulics - 3 Point Rear Remotes

[jcmiller77]

I have a B3030 that I just had the rear remotes added to the machine. I am looking to oder both the top and the tilt cylinders. I have taken the measurements of the current threaded rod links.

Top: 17 1/4 - 26 3/4
Side: 14 1/4 - 17 5/8

Hydraulic Options:

Category 1 Hydraulic Top Link 17 5/16" - 25 3/16
Category 1 Hydraulic Top Link 18 1/8" - 26 3/8
Hydraulic Side Link: 14 9/16" - 18 5/16

The stroke of the cylinder seem to be a little different. I found these on Agristore USA.

I was thinking to go with the 18 1/8 to 26 3/8. This way the angle is not too tight when the 3 point is fully lifted and the top link is fully retracted.

Would anyone have any experience in picking these cylinders? Any advice on these or recommendations on a different spot to buy them?

Thank you for taking a few moments to respond.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I have a B3030 that I just had the rear remotes added to the machine. I am looking to oder both the top and the tilt cylinders. I have taken the measurements of the current threaded rod links.

Top: 17 1/4 - 26 3/4
Side: 14 1/4 - 17 5/8

Hydraulic Options:

Category 1 Hydraulic Top Link 17 5/16" - 25 3/16
Category 1 Hydraulic Top Link 18 1/8" - 26 3/8
Hydraulic Side Link: 14 9/16" - 18 5/16

The stroke of the cylinder seem to be a little different. I found these on Agristore USA.

I was thinking to go with the 18 1/8 to 26 3/8. This way the angle is not too tight when the 3 point is fully lifted and the top link is fully retracted.

Would anyone have any experience in picking these cylinders? Any advice on these or recommendations on a different spot to buy them?

Thank you for taking a few moments to respond.

The 18 1/8" - 26 3/8 top link would be fine, just need to grind the tractor end ball swivel down to 1 9/16" wide.
I don't think that they have a side link that will work properly. The clevises need to be the correct angles, have the proper throat depth and have the correct pin hole sizes.
Take a good look at yours before you purchase anything off the shelf.

 

[jcmiller77]

The 18 1/8" - 26 3/8 top link would be fine, just need to grind the tractor end ball swivel down to 1 9/16" wide.
I don't think that they have a side link that will work properly. The clevises need to be the correct angles, have the proper throat depth and have the correct pin hole sizes.
Take a good look at yours before you purchase anything off the shelf.

Thanks so much. I was just reading another post about that too regarding the clevis end.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Look at the picture. If I remember correctly, the top clevis is at 16* with a 5/8" pin hole and the lower clevis is at 7* and has a 1/2" pinhole.
I'm not sure you will find that on the shelf anywhere.

 

[jcmiller77]

Look at the picture. If I remember correctly, the top clevis is at 16* with a 5/8" pin hole and the lower clevis is at 7* and has a 1/2" pinhole.
I'm not sure you will find that on the shelf anywhere.

Yeah, I was thinking that I will just buy the Kubota cylinder. Its like 600 ish bucks, so making me nuts. I have not done any welding for like 25 years and not sure I want to start again with this.

The next real question is going to be the check valve? I really like the idea of it but what would be best way to make sure I get the right one for the kubota piston?

Thanks so much for the feedback.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

You won't. The Kubota cylinder (if you can even purchase the side link alone) has #6 o-ring boss ports.
No one other than Fit Rite that I am aware of has #6 banjo bolts. Not that they can't be made, but you won't find them at any retail supplier that are for hydraulic pressures.