ZD28 Driveshaft trouble

The drive shaft on our ZD28F72P has pulled out 3 times while running. Twice it has taken out the radiator.
The dealer went through it and put it back together the 1st time. I'm told by our mechanic that the drive shaft does not appear to slide on the splines all the way. I will be looking at it tomorrow to see if I can machine a 3/8" or 1/2" shim on the engine side of the shaft to make it seat further into the splines on the other end.... I've search for an illustrated parts manual to see if there are more than one length drive shaft or factory "spacers" or shims but cannot find a parts manual of any kind... We are a small golf course in central Florida...
Has anyone had any experience with this type of problem?
Thanks
Pat Landy

I have not looked at it yet, but i believe it is the drive shaft from the Engine to the transmission. The mechanic tells me the end on the engine side is attached (I assume to the end of the crankshaft) and the other end is splined. The radiator is directly above this drive shaft and when it pulls out on the splined end the u-joints destroy the bottom of the radiator. My thoughts were to find a picture of the attached side of the shaft in the parts manual to see if there is a spacer or "shim" missing from the engine end, and see just how it is attached but I cannot find any illustrated shots of the drive shaft or how it attaches to the engine.. I cannot imagine that the shaft is to "short"... maybe we have to look to see if there is a frame stress crack somewhere that lets the engine an transmission separate... I'm trying to find out more information before I tackle the project...
Thanks
Pat Landy

Thanks for the Parts illustration.... The problem is with the engine side #60 Yolk Flange, #70 Shaft and #20 U-joint ....
OK.... After trip to local dealer and visiting the ZD28 at our shop I have the information.... The part about the shaft separating was "conjecture" on the part of one of the shop techs.... turns out the shaft (#70 ) was not pulling out... the u-joint end was "grenading".... when it let go the shaft takes out the radiator to the tune of $480... The shaft, u-joint and yolk flange another $350... Nobody seems to know why the shaft is blowing up.... last one lasted 8 hours and blew on level ground... no heavy rough or trash around...
One item of interest is that the #60 yolk flange has a new part number although the 2 parts, old and new, are interchangeable....
We are going to put it together again, build a guard for the radiator and before putting it in service we'll observe the operation of the shaft and alignment to see if we can determine any irregularities....
I'll post anything we find.
Thanks
Pat Landy