Woods bush hog

Yes, then use the top link and tail wheel to adjust the height of the back. The front will need to be an inch or so lower than the back and there should be slack in the to link for the pivot hitch to be about a 45 degree angle down when lowered and resting on the tail wheel and lift arms.

This is for a finish mower but it might help you get an idea of what you need to do

http://www.everythingattachments.com/Implement-Video-Demonstrations-s/2999.htm

New L3800 owner here. Is there a difference between a finishing mower and a bush hog mower?

If there is, will the bushhog mower also cut grass like a finishing mower?

Sorry if this is a stupid question.

Nope two different cutting toys and different cut results and quality. A bush hog is a rough cut more that can take a beating from rocks and stumps and keep on ticking. A finishing mower is like a jumbo cutting deck from under a riding lawn mower. Ideal for areas that get mowed on a frequent basis.

Bush hog

Finish Mower

I will probably need a Brush Hog in the spring since the area that I will be mowing has some rocks. I have been doing my best to pick out the big ones but there will still be some there.

I this one:
http://www.everythingattachments.co...tary-Kutter-p/kk-flex-hitch-rotary-kutter.htm

I am thinking to get the 72" for my L3800. 38HP but only 30 HP at the PTO. What you guys think?
Is it worth paying an extra $200 for one with Slip Clutch? What does that do?

Can someone also post a picture of what a lawn looks like if it has been brush hog (rather then a finishing mower). Thanks

Here's a few pics. Although I'm guilty of bushhogging my yard from time to time most won't be satisfied with that. It's nothing like cutting with a finish mower. Honestly I think mowing the lawn is a big waste of time and money. I'm still thinking hard about fencing mine in and turning my cows in so they can eat in down but that's just me.

Don't know if this is what you wanted or not. The first 3 are obviously bushhogged and the 4th it's sitting where the grass was cut with a finish mower. You can easily tell a big difference in the cut.

Thank for posting the pictures. Kind of hard to tell the difference.

How short will a Brush hog cut the grass?
It would not tear up the ground would it?


I spoke with someone at www.everythingattachments.com and they recommend a flail mower since I need to get the grass down to about 2" and also deal with occasional rocks. What do you guys think of this option:

http://www.everythingattachments.com/Phoenix-SLE-Tractor-Flail-Mowers-p/phoenix-sle-flail-mower.htm

A bushhog will cut down to a few inches but it will drag the front skids and leave big streaks in the yard. The average cut height without dragging is more in the 6" - 8" range.

If you don't mind that your yard looks like a field instead of a fine cut lawn you can get by fine with a bushhog. I don't care what brand you purchase you can't get fine cut from a bushhog cutter.

Now, the plus side is you can let the grass get 2' high and hit it with a bushhog and it will chop it right down without any problem but about 6" is what your finished height is going to be.

Yes, I know if you read the cut height rating it will say something like 2" - 12" or something along those lines. That 2" really gets the wheels to turning but it can't happen without dragging the front skids.

Bottom line, if you want a "lawn" you need a finish mower. If you don't mind if it looks like a pasture or field then the rotary cutter work fine. One implement can't do both jobs.

Thanks for your feedback Bulldog.

Any thoughts on a flail mower?

http://www.everythingattachments.com/Phoenix-SLE-Tractor-Flail-Mowers-p/phoenix-sle-flail-mower.htm

I have never used a 3pt flail mower but I have a side boom flail. I have been very pleased with what it does and I wouldn't be beyond trying one on the yard. And from what I've seen they do pretty good in the field as well.

The biggest PIA to me is sharpening the blades. It ain't like taking 3 blades off the finish mower. Mine is only 30" wide and I believe it has 42 double sided blades.

The county road dept uses flail mower on their tractors and it looks like they do a very nice job. I wish I could help you more but that's all I got on flails.
If you get one please report back how it does. I might want one myself.

Thanks again. I will be sure to give my feedback on the flail if that is the way I go (which seems to by my best option).

With the cutter mounted try to hook the shaft to the tractor. If you are almost touching the tractor pto with the cutter shaft slid in fully it's to long. If you raise it up and have 10 - 12 inches of clearance you should be fine.

I only remember cutter one shaft over the years and that was when I had a B7100. Every implement (so far) that I have bought for my L series tractor has fit without cutting the shaft.

Here are a couple of pics that show the fall cutting with the Woods BB72 and the yard to field comparison when finished. Hope it helps.

When you get the bushhog or other cutter it should come with a PTO shaft to attach to the tractor PTO output shaft. You won't be switching PTO shafts between driven implements.

I've only had to cut shafts when replacing on used equipment, but every implement-tractor combination is different.

Hook up the implement to the 3-point (leave the PTO shaft dangling loose, not connected to the tractor) and carefully lift the implement using the tractor 3-point hydraulics. Don't bind the loose shaft. Observe its position, height above ground.

Now lower the implement to the ground, shut everything off, and hook up PTO shaft to tractor. Make sure the snap-collar properly engages.

Lift again, observing how implement acts. Lift slowly on first gyration. As the PTO shaft telescopes it may --if too long-- bottom out one piece of the shaft inside the other. Be gentle and watch carefully.

If implement returns to 'unconnected' position when it is connected and you observe no binding or clunking bottoming-out of the shaft, you're good.

If you note interference or the implement or the implement won't lift to original position, you need to shorten the shaft.

You'll have to figure out how to measure the difference and if the excess needs to come off the external tube or internal insert or even both. You'll also need to figure out how to get the blasted PTO plastic safety guard off the shaft(s).

Depending on your skill and tools you can cut shaft(s) with torch or chop saw or recip saw or hacksaw if patient. Be sure to reattach safety shroud.

Grease all U-joints, keep them greased, and check gearbox and keep filled per manual. I oil my PTO shafts by pouring oil on them as I work them up and down and wiring an old rag at the joint as a wiper.

If bushhog, expect to sharpen blades with hand grinder after removing and be aware that blades do bend and can break. I've run across some bushhogs that no longer have top deck ports to access the nuts of the blade bolts. Expect to cut a hole in deck to prevent having to remove the stump-jumper (often after some use it can't easily be removed).

Please post back your experiences so we may all learn.