M9540 Shuttle Clutch Pack

seineil56k · Nov 24, 2018

Good Morning Friends! So i have a M9540 which was split for some work on the clutch pack. So now problem is that i cant get the clutch pack to sit in the remaining quarter inch. It sit on the two screw pertruding out of the transmission case. But regardless of what i have tired i haven't been able to get the pack in the last quarter inch.

Any advise?

eserv · Nov 24, 2018

seineil56k said:
Good Morning Friends! So i have a M9540 which was split for some work on the clutch pack. So now problem is that i cant get the clutch pack to sit in the remaining quarter inch. It sit on the two screw pertruding out of the transmission case. But regardless of what i have tired i haven't been able to get the pack in the last quarter inch.

Any advise?

you need to assemble the clutch pack properly. There should be a large snap-ring holding the clutch plates in. ( that is a shuttle clutch not a PTO clutch!)

seineil56k · Nov 25, 2018

eserv said:
you need to assemble the clutch pack properly. There should be a large snap-ring holding the clutch plates in. ( that is a shuttle clutch not a PTO clutch!)

eserv, what broke on the shuttle clutch was the large snap ring that you discribe holding the clutch plates. I've got everything reassembled now just can't figure out how to get the pack unit into the transmission case fully. there is about quarter of an inch spacing and I think the gears are not messing correctly.

rbargeron · Nov 25, 2018

seineil56k said:
Good Morning Friends! So i have a M9540 which was split for some work on the clutch pack. So now problem is that i cant get the clutch pack to sit in the remaining quarter inch. It sit on the two screw pertruding out of the transmission case. But regardless of what i have tired i haven't been able to get the pack in the last quarter inch.

Any advise?

Not sure it matters but the two meshing gears In the picture look to be about 1/4" out of plane. Check the reassembly order of everything against WSM cut-aways or parts book drawings. Something isn't where it was when it came out ? Good luck, Dick B

North Idaho Wolfman · Nov 25, 2018

More on with what eserv, and rbargeron said:

Is this picture a picture of what it looked like when you pulled it out before repairing it?

How about a picture of the after the repair?

Is the lower shuttle gear on the inside the 26 tooth gear and the outside side the 24 tooth gear, as the shaft and bearings are different on each end.

seineil56k · Nov 25, 2018

North Idaho Wolfman said:
More on
with what eserv, and rbargeron said:

Is this picture a picture of what it looked like when you pulled it out before repairing it?

How about a picture of the after the repair?

Is the lower shuttle gear on the inside the 26 tooth gear and the outside side the 24 tooth gear, as the shaft and bearings are different on each end.

The picture of the clutch pack is after we finish the repair.

Unfortunately I did not take a picture of the part before we disassembled it.

I will look at the gear count the first thing when I get to the shop.

North Idaho Wolfman · Nov 25, 2018

seineil56k said:
The picture of the clutch pack is after we finish the repair.

Unfortunately I did not take a picture of the part before we disassembled it.

I will look at the gear count the first thing when I get to the shop.

Something ain't right, If that's a picture of the after, you have an serious issue.

The rear clutch pack disks are not in place and the snap ring is not in the slot it's wedged behind the gear.

seineil56k · Nov 27, 2018

North Idaho Wolfman said:
Something ain't right, If that's a picture of the after, you have an serious issue.

The rear clutch pack disks are not in place and the snap ring is not in the slot it's wedged behind the gear.

the photo that was uploaded was of the broken PTO clutch pack my mistake =-O

I was able to put the clutch pack in by sticking my hand below the plate and slowly turning the gear while pushing the plate in simultaneously.

Now I have the tractor assembled but tractor wont go forward or reverse.... it doesn't move? Originally when we remove the transmission link cover we found a small piece of the c-clip from the PTO clutch pack. I was not sure but assume that the tractor wasn't moving because the pack was damaged. Though now I replaced it' and the tractor still doesn't have forward and reverse any suggestions?

North Idaho Wolfman · Nov 28, 2018

Three systems share the same hydraulic feed line, power steering, hydraulic shuttle and PTO engagement.

If you have steering and PTO engagement you should have power to the shuttle clutches, check those operations first.
If you're sure you have all the linkages and connections connected properly, then you could be looking at some other issue inside the transmission that was directly related to the clutch disk pack failure.

seineil56k · Nov 29, 2018

North Idaho Wolfman said:
Three systems share the same hydraulic feed line, power steering, hydraulic shuttle and PTO engagement.

If you have steering and PTO engagement you should have power to the shuttle clutches, check those operations first.
If you're sure you have all the linkages and connections connected properly, then you could be looking at some other issue inside the transmission that was directly related to the clutch disk pack failure.

Yeah, PTO works no problem as soon as I turn it on. Power steering doesn't seem to have any fatigue. Any other suggestions as to possible things I could check?

North Idaho Wolfman · Nov 29, 2018

You really need to get the WSM (aka Service manual), as it will tell you how to test the shuttle valve to see if it's working properly.

seineil56k · Nov 30, 2018

So in the service manual I found a hydraulic shuttle valve modulation unit. I noticed that there are two wires coming out of this unit. is there a way to use a multimeter to check if this is valve is functioning correctly electronically?

North Idaho Wolfman · Dec 1, 2018

seineil56k said:
So in the service manual I found a hydraulic shuttle valve modulation unit. I noticed that there are two wires coming out of this unit. is there a way to use a multimeter to check if this is valve is functioning correctly electronically?

I'm pretty sure that not a modulation valve, it says it's a neutral safety switch.

seineil56k · Dec 3, 2018

North Idaho Wolfman said:
I'm pretty sure that not a modulation valve, it says it's a neutral safety switch.

Wolfman, I removed the Switch and tested the unit with a multimeter for continuity, pressing and slowly releasing the switch. Tested this multiple time to ensure that it was done correctly and wasnt able to get any type of positive continuity test.

What does this switch do related to forward and reserve on the shuttle shifter?

North Idaho Wolfman · Dec 3, 2018

seineil56k said:
What does this switch do related to forward and reserve on the shuttle shifter?

If it's the neutral safety switch, which I'm sure it is, it has nothing to do with forward or reverse, operations, just that starting of it.

seineil56k · Dec 4, 2018

North Idaho Wolfman said:
If it's the neutral safety switch, which I'm sure it is, it has nothing to do with forward or reverse, operations, just that starting of it.

Theoretically if the neutral switch is defective it could actually inhibit the tractor from going into forward or reverse?

North Idaho Wolfman · Dec 4, 2018

seineil56k said:
Theoretically if the neutral switch is defective it could actually inhibit the tractor from going into forward or reverse?

Possibly, I don't know without the WSM in front of me.

seineil56k · Dec 20, 2018

Hey good morning everyone give you an update on my progress. And I have a few questions about the operation and testing of the shuttle clutch.

so first, thought it was the neutral switch in the beginning my testing result gave me intermittent reading. Tho after changing the unit it's still not going into forward or reverse.

so we split the tractor again pulled out the shuttle clutch. And replaced all the seals which was a total of two on the PTO and two on the drive as well as three seals for the shaft and the outside oilseal. I think when we originally did the job we got excited when we found a physically damaged part not fully doing the full inspection and testing every component before reassembling the unit.

So my question is now after changing all these seals and using air pressure to test the hydraulic activation of the shuttle clutch. When shooting compressed air into the hole should it be a fully airtight? Cuz right now I get results of actuation but there is air leaking between the internal Pistons can't exactly see where the air is coming out from but we can hear it.

North Idaho Wolfman · Dec 20, 2018

No it's not going to be air tight, it's only fluid tight, there is a difference.

And if I remember right most of them will bleed a little fluid during their operation to help lube the spinning seals.

seineil56k · Dec 20, 2018

North Idaho Wolfman said:
No it's not going to be air tight, it's only fluid tight, there is a difference.
And if I remember right most of them will bleed a little fluid during their operation to help lube the spinning seals.

Thank you so much Wolfman! that gives me confidence to put this thing back together.

M9540 Shuttle Clutch Pack

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