Can this wheel be repaired?

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D2Cat

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This is on a Case 730 and is 16.9 x 38 tire on a 15" wide wheel.

Had it go down a couple of times feeding hay last winter and figured it was a simple fix. It is what is called Power Adjust Rim, and the size is somewhat odd. When I find one it's about $500.
 

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Dave_eng

Dave_eng

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Looks pretty bad. I see hole right through the steel.

Do you really use the power adjust feature?

If it were mine I would be looking for any rim of the right size ( diameter less so width) and have the wheel center section permanently welded to the new rim rather than trying to retain the power adjust feature.

Dave
 
SidecarFlip

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CACL in the tire maybe? I'd say it's toast, corroded toast at that. I'd clean off the corrosion and see just how bad it really is but it looks bad.

I guess you could wire weld in some patches but you'd have to roll form them to the diameter first. I have a slip roll set here if you want to come by...lol

Did you try Mid-States salvage?
 
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SDT

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D2Cat said:
This is on a Case 730 and is 16.9 x 38 tire on a 15" wide wheel.

Had it go down a couple of times feeding hay last winter and figured it was a simple fix. It is what is called Power Adjust Rim, and the size is somewhat odd. When I find one it's about $500.
Click to expand...
With enough money and/or time, most things are repairable but I do not believe it will be cost effective to repair that rim.

Might want to post your question in the Case forum on YT.

SDT
 
SidecarFlip

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Talk about cheap.....:D If you ever get it patched, don't load it.
 
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D2Cat

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It wasn't loaded when I got it and that was 20 years ago. Don't need it loaded so no plan to. But it's a 1966 model, so at some point I'm pretty sure calcium chloride resided in a tube and leaked.

Ya, call it cheap. I like challenges. It's a good method to learn new skills. Keeps one from getting old!

I'm the eternal optimist. Go after Moby Dick in a row boat, and take the tarter sauce!
 
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SDT

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D2Cat said:
It wasn't loaded when I got it and that was 20 years ago. Don't need it loaded so no plan to. But it's a 1966 model, so at some point I'm pretty sure calcium chloride resided in a tube and leaked.

Ya, call it cheap. I like challenges. It's a good method to learn new skills. Keeps one from getting old!

I'm the eternal optimist. Go after Moby Dick in a row boat, and take the tarter sauce!
Click to expand...
Might want to consider buying a blank rim and welding your PA hardware to the new blank.

Not uncommon.

SDT
 
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RCW

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Wow ‘Cat, continue with the pictures!
Really liking your progress!



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BAP

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You certainly aren’t the first to repair a rim and won’t be the last. I repaired rims before. As long as you can get to good steel to weld to, then it shouldn’t be a problem. In our throw away society, people just give up and buy a new one when an hour or two of sweat labor and a little metal will fix it as good as new.
 
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Yooper

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That grinder is your best friend. Get the rim and the patch metal shiny clean before laying down the bead. Another suggestion is to tack some cross bracing on the back side before you final weld to help it hold its shape. Good luck!
 
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OlFerguson

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I personally wouldn’t use that , it would be on its way to the dump. You can find used rims online for cheap or if you want something cheap and rugged just get some steelies.
 
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D2Cat

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Yooper, these are what's called "power adjust rims". There are 6 clamps that hold the wheel to the hub. The clamps can be loosened and the tractor can be ran forward or reversed to adjust the position of the tires, in or out. You can see the 1 1/4x1" bars on the inside of the rim. When I weld the replacement plate I bore 1/2" holes in the appropriate spots so I can plug weld to those bars. That anchors the metal.

Comments about finding used rims are lacking the understand of the metal spot welded to those bars, and the purpose of those bars. No practical way to cut a used rim for use because of that. And finding used rims of this size and configuration not needing similar repair is not readily available, at least in the USA.
 
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RCW

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Power adjust wheels were quite common for tractors in '50's and '60's.

Case and Allis-Chalmers are the makes that come to mind, but I'm sure there are others of the vintage.

When the darn things work, they're really slick. Often in older tractors the lugs, brackets and adjusting bars are corroded or bent so they don't work great.

The PA feature makes a wheel re-build so much more complicated than other types. Everything has to line up in 2 or 3 planes, and move freely when necessary. Honestly don't think I've seen anyone tackle this kind of project.

Really enjoying Cat's work on it....shows his ingenuity, as he's demonstrated many times before.

Sent from my QTASUN1 using Tapatalk
 
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D2Cat

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Had another project get in my way, but I was able to work a bit on this.

Got all the bad cut out, and new metal to replace it. Had a 3/16" plate cut in an 18" inside dia. and 19" outside. I then had to cut notches ever 4-5" so I could bend it back to the good metal where the bead sets. It's a compound angle and takes some patience to get it in place.
 

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D2Cat

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Out with the old, in with the new. The last picture shows the wheel on the hub just before I removed it from the tractor. It gives an idea of how the power adjust bars set on the hub. I have the clamps removed here.
 

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SidecarFlip

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My old Massey had them, never slid them though. Guess you can refurbish about anything given enough time and welding rod....:D
 
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Tim Keith

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There are several tractor rim repair videos on Youtube. If you've got the time and a welder, you can probably repair it. If you just can't find a better rim .
 
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