ROPS LED's Questions

Before diving in to the deep end, perhaps you can try a pair of 27 or 36 watt lights with the current dynamo and judge if you need more light. You're investment will be approximately $25. I'd also forgo the use of the stock headlights all together, thus saving precious amps.

You might be shocked at how much light they produce. Don't believe or trust the claimed lumens or current draw. These are typically theoretical outputs of what the individual LEDS can put out. Most designs don't drive them to these limits. This might be due to the difficulty in transferring the heat immediately at the LED. It doesn't matter they are very bright!!!

I've used about a dozen sets of the garden variety 18, 27 and 36 watt units typically purchased from Amazon for cheap. Measuring the actual current draw at 12.6 volts yielded: 18 watt lamp - 0.75 Amps, 27 watt lamp - 1.18 Amps and 36 watt lamp - 2.06 Amps This is for one lamp so for a set the values would need to be doubled.

Very happy with the light output of the 27 watt units. It is crazy how much more light they put out compared to the pathetic halogen headlights. My neighbor uses just one of these facing forward and the other rearward and is happy with the light output when plowing snow in the winter.

The 18 watt units work nice to illuminate the sides of the tractor.

Using the 36 watt units on cabbed tractors as they are nearly the same size as the stock Kubota lights.

Of course you can go the overkill route with the larger alternator and 42" light bars. They are very impressive, but I'm not certain it is necessary, however they look ultra cool.

Example of 36 watt light: https://www.amazon.com/Nilight-6-5Inch-Lights-Driving-Warranty/dp/B00IZ9VAOI/ref=sr_1_2?rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1513870429&sr=8-2&keywords=36+watt+led+flood&refinements=p_76%3A2661625011

Good luck with your project.

Pictures form left to right: Summary of current draw. Example of 18 watt light, 27 watt and 36 watt.

I agree with Hokie and 200mph - little ones would be worth a try. I have 4 of the little square LED's. 2 forward/2 back. I think they were $25 a pair at TSC.

Been awhile, but seems like they are 1,000 +/- lumens each.

Don't hear any change in engine when flipping them on - could hear a change with the halogens I had before - so you know they were a challenge for the alternator.

Plenty of light, and negates need for headlights all together.

dirtydeed said:

I understand there are perhaps many threads on adding LED's but was hoping maybe some of you guys can make a suggestion on just how many watts/lumens are needed. I thought maybe it was best to start my own thread.

I'd like to add two LED units (one forward, one rear facing). Since I have a hoe, I'd like to get light bars instead of the work light configuration mounting them to the underside of the ROPS so I'm not constantly banging my head on them when 'hoeing. I also run rear blade for snow.

What should I be looking for (wattage/lumens) to have a decent amount of light (spot and flood?)? I'm not interested in upgrading to the 40 amp alternator at this time...I think the stock dynamo only puts out 14 amps on the ROPS version of a B2650.

I had a set of incandescent lights on my old BX23 which worked well enough. But that machine had a larger (wider) ROPS so they weren't typically in my way when operating the hoe. The ROPS on the B2650 feels a bit narrower.

Much appreciated.

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dirtydeeds. Go back and check out my post on installing lights on my rops. I believe Hokie has the same ones. l bought a pack of 4 tufflights that are 27 watt and 1950 lumens. 2 facing front and 2 facing back. lt is all of the light you will ever need. I plow snow at night and sometimes work at night now problem. The lights were rated at 1.9 amp draw but only draw about 1.4. So less then 6 more amps on the system. I did alot of testing with voltage and amp draw to make sure the dynamo would handle everything without going to an alternator. With the 4 new lights on, and tractor lights and flashers on the amp draw was around 11 amps. So the dynamo will handle everything. The one thing I did find out testing, was you have to be at least 1800 rpm with all of the lights on for the dynamo to keep up. So if I am going to warm up when plowing, I turn the 4 LEDS off, set the tractor at high idle, and go get warm. Been using it this way for a couple years and works great.

Also have the 4" tuffledlights.com. Bought 3 pairs 2-3 years ago. Had one fail within a year and they replaced under warranty. Two have moisture in the lens, but still work. Started buying other brands from amazon and found no difference in light output, current draw, construction or water tightness. They were however more $'s from Tuff, so quit buying from them.

Even the attachment brackets and bolts were the same.

The above comments are for this particular model: http://tuffledlights.com/product/square-led-work-light-4-inch-27-watt/

Have always used the Flood pattern.

Tuff: $22.99 for one or 4 for $19.99

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LRU9EJE/ref=sspa_dk_detail_3?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B01LRU9EJE&pd_rd_wg=BkmCh&pd_rd_r=4DV9R1B1Z76CHBFYV2RZ&pd_rd_w=dAz7V

Completely agree these lights will provide all the light you need. A single LED unit will produce at least 3x the light of your current headlights.

The before and after photos many have posted in other threads understate the true difference between stock halogen and these small LEDs.

200mph said:

The 18 watt units work nice to illuminate the sides of the tractor.

Good luck with your project.

Pictures form left to right: Summary of current draw. Example of 18 watt light, 27 watt and 36 watt.

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I have a single 18W on the front of my hunting buggy and it throws a lot of light, will be adding one to the back of my tractor and have a 10" bar to put on the front.

Installing an AC Delco si12 alternator will fix most power problems.
If it will fit, don't know about on a b2650.

I installed 2 of these (1 amp draw- 1050 lumens) rear facing.
https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200648983_200648983
I like them well enough that I might add 2 more laterally to light up the sides. Excellent flood for a 3x3 mini. I installed a 23" 126w combo spot and flood to the top of the ROPs and I love it so far but just finished install 3 days ago and haven't had to move snow at night yet to really test it.
I also haven't felt like going out and firing it up at night just to get a pic. It was -6 degrees last night and -12 this morning.

Dirtydeed,

It's been a month, what did you end up doing?

I'm in the same situation. I have a B2650 and I'm having trouble putting together a lighting system for my ROPS. I don't want to have to do anything extra to the electrical system that's currently on the tractor to run whatever I end up using.

I was going to go with the 4 inch Auxbeam flood lights on the rear and maybe a bar on the front. Sounds like all I need are 2 4-inch pointing front and 2 more pointing to the rear.

However Amazon is out of stock on the 4 inch ones, so I'm now looking at the 7 inch model. Would this be too much to run 4 on my B2650?

http://a.co/eFA6vqL

I was also looking at these brackets.
http://coupersproducts.com/tractor-rops-work-light-mount/

What I'm really unsure about is wiring them to the tractor. If I can avoid it, I don't want to drill holes. I'd like to use a junction box maybe.

Can I use the Kubota worklight wire that's on the fender? If so, what do I need to make it work?

Is there another wiring harness someone would suggest?

A lot of questions, I know. Thanks in advance!!

85Hokie said:

GK,

IF you bought those ......they are each drawing 3 amps of current, a set gets 6 amps, and 4 will make 12 amps.

Notice on the TSC brackets......will these 7" lights center on those? Does that make sense? The bolt pattern will place the middle of the light some 3 1/2" from the ROPS, will the bracket allow for that?

AS for the worklight on the fender, I am not sure what that fuse is rated for - I would imagine that you could run 2 for the rear, maybe all four off that rear wiring set up.

Personally - I would run a new circuit - really do not need to be an electrical whiz on this, but you do need to understand certain things about it.

here is a harness that works well, and another fuse box

https://www.amazon.com/Liteway-Univ...-10&keywords=wiring+harness+for+led+light+bar

https://www.amazon.com/OLS-6-Way-Bl...d=1517346924&sr=1-4&keywords=12+volt+fuse+box

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Thank you for the quick reply!!

http://a.co/02JRae1
I actually found the 4-inch flood lights. Looks like it comes with a wiring harness. So I can buy two sets of these.

When I was going to go with the 7 inch, I was going to get the bracket sized so that the mount was pointing front and another set pointing to the rear. But now that I found the 4 inch, I can just get one set since it allows for a total of 4 4-inch lights.

That wiring block, looks pretty straight forward. Run a red/positive wire from the battery to the block, but no negative. What gauge wire should I use?

I'd run that wire from the battery to the back of the tractor, then mount the block somewhere in the back. Then I connect the positive wire from the wiring harnesses to the block, then the negative wire from the harness to a ground. Right?

Where can I mount the switches for the lights?

Again... thank you.

i bought a 4 pack of 35 watt lights with wiring harness (lit switch, relay, all wires) and only ended up using 2 of them - one forward and one back.

Why? watts for one - my old L175 doesn't have a huge alternator and these two lights are about the same wattage as the factory headlights.

And a LOT brighter.

gk527 said:

Thank you for the quick reply!!

http://a.co/02JRae1
I actually found the 4-inch flood lights. Looks like it comes with a wiring harness. So I can buy two sets of these.

When I was going to go with the 7 inch, I was going to get the bracket sized so that the mount was pointing front and another set pointing to the rear. But now that I found the 4 inch, I can just get one set since it allows for a total of 4 4-inch lights.

That wiring block, looks pretty straight forward. Run a red/positive wire from the battery to the block, but no negative. What gauge wire should I use?

I'd run that wire from the battery to the back of the tractor, then mount the block somewhere in the back. Then I connect the positive wire from the wiring harnesses to the block, then the negative wire from the harness to a ground. Right?

Where can I mount the switches for the lights?

Again... thank you.

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I found these waterproof switches that light up when on, on Amazon. I mounted them on the dash for easy access and visibility. They mount by drilling a 1" hole, and then they just snap in. Really easy and they work really well. They actually look pretty much factory after installation.

View attachment 34103

View attachment 34104

rkidd said:

I found these waterproof switches that light up when on, on Amazon. I mounted them on the dash for easy access and visibility. They mount by drilling a 1" hole, and then they just snap in. Really easy and they work really well. They actually look pretty much factory after installation.

View attachment 34103

View attachment 34104

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Those do look good.

Where did you end up mounting your lights on the ROPS? From the horizontal bar at the top or from the sides?

gk527 said:

However Amazon is out of stock on the 4 inch ones, so I'm now looking at the 7 inch model. Would this be too much to run 4 on my B2650?

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If you go to post #3 you'll see that I posted the actual current draw for these types of lights along with the smaller units. The 7" 36 Watt units actually consume only 2.06 watts each. So four units would be 8.24 Watts, which is less than two 55 watt halogen lights.

rkidd said:

I found these waterproof switches that light up when on, on Amazon. I mounted them on the dash for easy access and visibility. They mount by drilling a 1" hole, and then they just snap in. Really easy and they work really well. They actually look pretty much factory after installation.

Click to expand...

Can you provide a link for these switches?

Thanks