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At one point, I replaced the fuel line between the lift pump and injection pump with a clear line and all bubbles worked their way out and still no improvement. This last time, I did bleed at the injection pump and only at one of the injectors (longest line), so I guess I could go back and...

Yes, I followed the manual, but now you mention it, I am not sure I had the throttle wide open?? Would that make a difference in when the injection starts? I guess it could at least make it easier to see the fuel level rise in the port. I could not tell the five degrees made any difference...

after i first put the engine together after the machine work, it would run about 30 to 40 seconds and die. If i tried to restart immediately, the starter could barely turn it over. If i waited about 30 to 40 seconds, then it would spin over and start only to run for another 20 seconds or so...

I MAY NEED TO RECHECK THE VALVES, ALTHOUGH i JUST SET THEM? i AM CERTAIN THE TIMING GEARS ARE LINED UP CORRECTLY. I WAS VERY CAREFUL THE SECOND TIME AROUND AND GOT ALL MARKS ALIGNED WITH PISTON 1 ON TDC. I AM GOING TO ORDER AN INFRARED TEMP GUN THIS WEEK.

Guess I need to figure out how to put some short clear vinyl lines on the ports so I can direct the fire somewhere other than all over my garage. I will do this before taking off the pump to get it checked, may answer a few questions.

I cannot remember exactly what the skit clearance was, but it was within limits per the repair manual I had and I believe the machine shop guys also said it was good per this size of piston - that is the manual values I used were also consistent with what they anticipated per the small piston...

I overhauled my B7100 (was not running when purchased) with new head, pistons, rings, all bearings, and had block bored 0.5 mm over to accommodate new (0.5mm over) overhaul kit. It will start and idles just fine but only runs about two minutes before it appears to get hot and tries to seize up...

I finally go the shaft out using a torch to heat the cross tube it rides in and using an eight pound sledge hammer to drive it out. It took about two hours to get it out and apparently it must have been stuck for years. I guess the previous owner just relied upon the right break. The pictures...

The shaft will not rotate to allow the left brake to be applied. It looks like i will have to remove it to clean it and restore function.

Thanks Daren. I do have the parts manual and I believe it shows the shaft as I described but there is something on the drawing that I cannot discern. It looks like something along the bottom of the shaft but there is nothing visible from the beneath the tractor.

I have a B7100 that I recently purchased that had been sitting for awhile. The left brake is stuck and I determined that it is the shaft that goes beneath the tractor and allows the pedal on the right to actuate the lever going to the left brake. I have removed both brake pedals on right side...