BX25D instrument panel and water damage

Southernfarm

New member

Equipment
2014 BX25D
Jun 8, 2016
109
1
0
Southern MB
Well after reading here that the Instrument panel just pops out on my 2014 BX25D, I figured I should try and get some of the water out. The front glass wasn't sealing at all, and as I was trying to remove the panel, the glass actually came off first.

Now I have to preface this with the fact that I am second owner of this tractor. And all but the power train warranty has run out.

So I removed the instrument panel, by reaching up underneath with a small flat screwdriver in my hand/fingers, and slipped it under one of the 4 tabs that are around the cluster. It gave it enough room on just one of them, for the entire cluster to pop right out. And as soon as I tipped it over, water literally poured out. So into the house we go. I unscrewed the 4 Phillips screws to remove the black back. Remember that the glass had already popped out. and the electronic board came right out with the front faceplate White plastic). The inside of the black cover had like mildew in it. From the looks of things the glass had a black painted border around it, and a tiny bead of black silicone holding it in. I removed all of the silicone. During this procedure I found the bottom two corners of plastic cracked, so I think the PO tried to remove, or removed the glass and replaced things. Not sure. Anyway, cleaned everything up, including corrosion on the connectors and this is what I found:

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It looks like the second pin ( I think is 12v) is nearly corroded right through. The one to the right, is corroded short.

Then I found this:

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and a better angle:

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Now the white thing is the tach motor or what ever it is. It had water inside it too. The black circular thing S14 K14 Auto is a Varistor. Essentially it is a circuit protector for the entire board in case of power surges or spikes, like those experienced with jump starting, or failed regulator on the alternator.

I am surprised my instruments still work.:eek:

Now, I can get the Varistor, but I am having a tough time matching up the connector pins to find a replacement, because those corroded pins aren't going to last too long.

Does anyone know if there are any unused pins on the 16 pin header on the instrument cluster on the 2014 BX? I would just swap them out.

This is what my cluster looks like. I borrowed someone's image from the net.

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Southernfarm

New member

Equipment
2014 BX25D
Jun 8, 2016
109
1
0
Southern MB
Well, I went back out and looked at the wire harness this morning before work. Found that there are 4 pins that are not in use. I will transfer one of them over to the bad power one. Then, I am going to order a new Varistor through Digikey. The cost is less than $2 plus $8 Fed Ex shipping. Bit of soldering, then seal the glass back up. Be good as new for $10.
 

Southernfarm

New member

Equipment
2014 BX25D
Jun 8, 2016
109
1
0
Southern MB
Southernfarm, did this actually work for you? I have the same problem. Which of the 16 pins did you trade out?
I looked at the wire harness and 4 pins had no wires. If you look at the picture, the +12 V one is the major corroded one. That is pin 15. Pin 1-8 is on top and 9-16 is the bottom row. I swapped with Pin 2 or 10, I can't remember. Just look at the harness though and there will be no wire going to the unused pins. They de-solder easily with a soldering gun with high watts. They are not a tight fit in the hole so you will have to melt the solder and hold the pin in alignment until cool.

I also sprayed the Tach motor (white thing on my pictures). Got in there with WD-40 to get all the water and at least some of the rust out after lifting a corner a bit and getting that red straw right up against the crack of an opening.
 

murph1068

Member

Equipment
bx25d
Sep 6, 2016
54
19
8
Willowgrove PA
So this seems to be a common problem. I too came across this and have the same pin corroded. I will call it the B pin as that is what is on the circuit board and it looks to be the same on yours. My problem is the other half of the pin is broke off flush in the socket (harness). Any suggestions for removing it or does the harness need to get replaced too?
 
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Southernfarm

New member

Equipment
2014 BX25D
Jun 8, 2016
109
1
0
Southern MB
There should be a tab on the back or side of the socket with the wires. You should be able to pull the wire out of the harness, then just remove the broken pin. I just looked at the back of my harness. The center of it is purple plastic. you should be able to lift the tab on the one side of the purple piece and the whole center can be removed. Then you can just slide out one wire with its attached socket clear of the black outer case. Remove the broken pin and replace.

I would look around on the circuit board as well for any shorts or corroded parts. Give the circuit board a good cleaning with rubbing alcohol (99%) if you can find it. My tach motor (white thing in my picture) was showing rust, so I gently lifted the edge and soaked it with WD-40 to displace any water.
 

murph1068

Member

Equipment
bx25d
Sep 6, 2016
54
19
8
Willowgrove PA
There should be a tab on the back or side of the socket with the wires. You should be able to pull the wire out of the harness, then just remove the broken pin. I just looked at the back of my harness. The center of it is purple plastic. you should be able to lift the tab on the one side of the purple piece and the whole center can be removed. Then you can just slide out one wire with its attached socket clear of the black outer case. Remove the broken pin and replace.

I would look around on the circuit board as well for any shorts or corroded parts. Give the circuit board a good cleaning with rubbing alcohol (99%) if you can find it. My tach motor (white thing in my picture) was showing rust, so I gently lifted the edge and soaked it with WD-40 to displace any water.
Thanks for the response, I'm going to dig into that tomorrow. I cleaned all of it so I will see what happens when I get the pin out and plug it back in. I replaced the pin with one not being used and that worked well. The tach motor on the other hand was loaded with some sludge and when I disassembled it to clean it out I dropped a tiny gear and it went into never never land on the shop floor. (it'll turn up somewhere I'm sure)

It's not the end of the world if I don't have a tach and if I plug this in and if all else works I'll live with it. If not, I gotta replace the dash anyway. Thanks for your help on this.
 

Southernfarm

New member

Equipment
2014 BX25D
Jun 8, 2016
109
1
0
Southern MB
Yep my dash looks like that too. I noticed that there was black paint, about 3/4" all the way around the glass. It hides the little white tabs and the tach display light. Mine was pealing off, so I took it all off. I need to remove and reseal the glass, as my silicone was old and not maintaining a seal. When I do, I will be repainting the glass edge as well. Mask, cut, and paint. I am just thinking, I think after I mask the entire glass off, then cut 3/4" of the tape off all the way around, I will use my sand blaster and blast the glass edge. It will give it a frosted look, then the paint will really adhere to it.
 

CountryBumkin

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Lifetime Member

Equipment
BX2370 w/LA243, Bucket, Grapple, QA Pallet Forks, 60" MMM, rear blade & rake
Sep 27, 2015
568
4
0
Central FL
When I do, I will be repainting the glass edge as well. Mask, cut, and paint. I am just thinking, I think after I mask the entire glass off, then cut 3/4" of the tape off all the way around, I will use my sand blaster and blast the glass edge. It will give it a frosted look, then the paint will really adhere to it.
Well we do love our tractors.
 

murph1068

Member

Equipment
bx25d
Sep 6, 2016
54
19
8
Willowgrove PA
Yep my dash looks like that too. I noticed that there was black paint, about 3/4" all the way around the glass. It hides the little white tabs and the tach display light. Mine was pealing off, so I took it all off. I need to remove and reseal the glass, as my silicone was old and not maintaining a seal. When I do, I will be repainting the glass edge as well. Mask, cut, and paint. I am just thinking, I think after I mask the entire glass off, then cut 3/4" of the tape off all the way around, I will use my sand blaster and blast the glass edge. It will give it a frosted look, then the paint will really adhere to it.
Yea....I taped it off to keep the silicone from smearing the glass. I didn't go crazy this is a temp fix for now. I'm hoping that tach gear will pop up and if it does I will redo and paint the edge as well. I'm just happy it's functional for now and note to self....don't squirt the dash with water.
 

William1

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Lifetime Member

Equipment
BX25D
Jul 28, 2015
1,118
310
83
Richmond, Virginia
My brand new BX25D had moisture in the panel. Dealer replaced it. Tractor was then stored indoors and not washed. Took out the tractor into the sun and humidity/fogging occurred. Moisture was there from teh dealer/factory. I emailed my dealer, telling them of this and that I did not want the panel replaced again but to note it in my files just in case down the road it fails as I'd expect a replacement at that time under warranty. Dealer agreed.
IMHO, it seems like a design flaw.
 

CountryBumkin

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Equipment
BX2370 w/LA243, Bucket, Grapple, QA Pallet Forks, 60" MMM, rear blade & rake
Sep 27, 2015
568
4
0
Central FL
I posted about this too a while back (my tractor was new too).

Turns out - they all get fog inside the glass. And they dry out after a little while. These dash assemblies are not sealed (plenty of openings on the back and underside).
 

RCW

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Equipment
BX2360, FEL, MMM, BX2750D snowblower. 1953 Minneapolis Moline ZAU
Apr 28, 2013
9,155
5,238
113
Chenango County, NY
I posted about this too a while back (my tractor was new too).

Turns out - they all get fog inside the glass. And they dry out after a little while. These dash assemblies are not sealed (plenty of openings on the back and underside).
I bought my BX2360 3 years ago as the 2370's were coming out, so it was kind of a leftover that probably sat in the yard a while.

I wanted the shorter ROPS....

After reading about the dashes in other BX's, I've been surprised mine never did have an issue......I did dump all the fluids early on, just in case the was moisture in the fluids, though.;)
 

RCW

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Equipment
BX2360, FEL, MMM, BX2750D snowblower. 1953 Minneapolis Moline ZAU
Apr 28, 2013
9,155
5,238
113
Chenango County, NY
I'm thinking... I should pop out my panel and put dielectric grease on the electrical connector............
If you haven't had an issue, and its kept indoors, I would not pull it apart.

I'm not taking mine apart.
 

William1

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Lifetime Member

Equipment
BX25D
Jul 28, 2015
1,118
310
83
Richmond, Virginia
I remove the screen surrounding the battery to get under the panel. I saw the tech replace my original panel when I complained of fogging. Took him five minutes to swap. So I figured it would take me ten.

My eyes are so bad and I have pudgy hands and was unable to unclip the panel from the surround. So instead, I removed the two nuts (the bolts are carriage bolts-do not let them fall) holding the dash surround off (open the hood there they are.) This let me lift it up enough to reach in, press the clip holding the plug to the dash and pull the plug. Smeared dielectric grease into the contacts, plugged it back in. Put the nuts back on the surround, battery screen on.

Twelve minutes.
 

cheetahpilot

New member

Equipment
bx2200
Sep 12, 2016
4
0
0
Southside, Al USA
Bought a 2013 bx2370 to replace my 2002 bx2200. 2370 tach and hour meter not working. Took instrument cluster apart and found corrosion on the tach drive. Bought and installed new cluster.

Now when the key is switched on, the tach does its exercise from zero to max and falls back to zero as the panel boots up (old one never moved). Crank it up and tach reads zero and hour meter stays on 0.0 hours.

Checked for corrosion at the 16 pins... none. Checked for corrosion at three pin connector on alternator and it had some. Treated with corrosion - x to no avail.

Q) I saw where pin 15 is 12v power? (Pin 1-8 on top row, left to right looking from front of tractor / rear of cluster?)

Q) What sends the signal to the tach?

Q) What sends the signal to the hour meter to start the clock?

Any help appreciated...very frustrated at the moment.