Pinhole leak in metal hydraulic line

[PoTreeBoy]

Another option is to use a compression to JIC adapter, then have a new hose made with a long 90° JIC fitting on the end.

 

[TheOldHokie]

Another option is to use a compression to JIC adapter, then have a new hose made with a long 90° JIC fitting on the end.
View attachment 151339
View attachment 151340

I like that idea a lot

Just cut the end off the existing hose and crimp on the new one. Any hydraulic shop can do that.

FJX90L-06-06 | 3/8" Hose x 3/8" JIC Female Swivel 90° Long

Check out the deal on FJX90L-06-06 | 3/8" Hose x 3/8" JIC Female Swivel 90° Long at DiscountHydraulicHose.com

www.discounthydraulichose.com

These convert-a-flare tube nuts, sleeves, and a plain JIC tube union are much less expensive than the male JIC compression fitting. I use all of those bits a lot and have them on hand. In addition to being a lot less expensive they allow you to skip dash sizes - e.g put a -08 end on a -06 tube.

419-06 | 3/8" Convert-A-Flare Tube Sleeve

Check out the deal on 419-06 | 3/8" Convert-A-Flare Tube Sleeve at DiscountHydraulicHose.com

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418-06 | 3/8" Convert-A-Flare Tube Nut

Check out the deal on 418-06 | 3/8" Convert-A-Flare Tube Nut at DiscountHydraulicHose.com

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2403-06-06 | 3/8" JIC Male x 3/8" JIC Male

Check out the deal on 2403-06-06 | 3/8" JIC Male x 3/8" JIC Male at DiscountHydraulicHose.com

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Dan

 

[PoTreeBoy]

I like that idea a lot

Just cut the end off the existing hose and crimp on the new one. Any hydraulic shop can do that.

FJX90L-06-06 | 3/8" Hose x 3/8" JIC Female Swivel 90° Long

Check out the deal on FJX90L-06-06 | 3/8" Hose x 3/8" JIC Female Swivel 90° Long at DiscountHydraulicHose.com

www.discounthydraulichose.com

These convert-a-flare tube nuts, sleeves, and a plain JIC tube union are much less expensive than the male JIC compression fitting. I use all of those bits a lot and have them on hand. In addition to being a lot less expensive they allow you to skip dash sizes - e.g put a -08 end on a -06 tube.

419-06 | 3/8" Convert-A-Flare Tube Sleeve

Check out the deal on 419-06 | 3/8" Convert-A-Flare Tube Sleeve at DiscountHydraulicHose.com

www.discounthydraulichose.com

418-06 | 3/8" Convert-A-Flare Tube Nut

Check out the deal on 418-06 | 3/8" Convert-A-Flare Tube Nut at DiscountHydraulicHose.com

www.discounthydraulichose.com

2403-06-06 | 3/8" JIC Male x 3/8" JIC Male

Check out the deal on 2403-06-06 | 3/8" JIC Male x 3/8" JIC Male at DiscountHydraulicHose.com

www.discounthydraulichose.com

Dan

I'd just caution OP to measure that hard line before ordering parts.

 

[TheOldHokie]

I'd just caution OP to measure that hard line before ordering parts.

Absolutely!!!. If as I syspect its on the loader likely 1/2" tube.

Bottom line is this is not a diffucult or expensive repair - the quoted $300 is crazy high.

Dan

 

[D2Cat]

If/when you find a good hyd shop you will be able to come up with an alternative of some kind. I had a hyd hose blow on a '66 730 Case tractor two winters ago. I was using it to feed hay and needed it. The dealer could order the hose (It was about 35" long with a peculiar long 90 on one end), take a week to get it and cost $270. Asked him about about hose replacement since they makeup hoses. Said sure. A thirty minute wait and $77 I walked out with what I needed. Good luck with the project.

 

[TheOldHokie]

If/when you find a good hyd shop you will be able to come up with an alternative of some kind. I had a hyd hose blow on a '66 730 Case tractor two winters ago. I was using it to feed hay and needed it. The dealer could order the hose (It was about 35" long with a peculiar long 90 on one end), take a week to get it and cost $270. Asked him about about hose replacement since they makeup hoses. Said sure. A thirty minute wait and $77 I walked out with what I needed. Good luck with the project.

Exactly!!

Dan

 

[whitetiger]

Thanks all for your input! I went to a hydraulic hose shop as recommended. They did not think a compression or flare fitting would be a viable option.
The compression fitting is a good solution; I have used it and have seen it used many times. Just cut the tube back a little to get to a good section of the tube, and emery cloth it clean and smooth.

Their first recommendation was to tack weld it ALA Smokeydog.
Do not try welding it. The tube is worn thin and rusted—pitted. If you weld it, you will very likely get debris from the weld in your control valve.

Their second recommendation was to replace the whole metal section with rubber hose (I tried sourcing the OEM part [70050-00709] but it's discontinued and impossible to find.) They were thinking this is would cost about $150 to $300, which is actually less than I thought but still steep for a poor tightwad like me.
I have a friend that can MIG weld it for free, but not until next Sunday and I really need it ASAP.

A couple people have recommended JB Weld. I have some which is rated to 5000#.
Only in your wildest dreams would JB Weld repair a high-pressure leak in a hydraulic tube.

Do I have anything to lose by cleaning it up really good and trying that first?

Use a compression fitting and add a short section of hose to repair it. Just use two P clamps around the tubes rather than the c-clamp to hold the hose and tube in place.

 

[forrest carver]

Hi all, thanks for the further replies and sorry for the delay. A little update:

Unable to avoid mistakes without without making them myself, I went the JB weld route. I gobbed it on liberally in two separate coats over the past several days. This morning after curing, I fired it up. As most of you predicted, it did not work at all. In fact, I'm not sure how but the leak is significantly worse now!

I have removed the whole section of metal hose and all the accompanying rubber hoses and will be bringing it to the hydraulic shop today. I will most likely replace the whole metal section with rubber hose, although I suspect the rest of the metal hose is fine (the section that rusted through was in a little crevice full of moist debris, and the rest is clear).

I had another question hidden away on the first page: being that I don't know how much fluid has leaked out, and I don't think the hydraulic fluid has been changed in 20+ years, I suppose the smart move is to drain out the rest of the fluid and add fresh. I found some conflicting information online about the capacity, where should I find that info?

 

[forrest carver]

I was able to find a compression fitting and an elbow at Napa, total $30.

As you can see from the picture below, turns out the pinhole was just one of many issues with that joint on the original hose. I have no idea what happened to it but it looks like hell.

Thank you all for the advice and counsel as usual!

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I was able to find a compression fitting and an elbow at Napa, total $30.

As you can see from the picture below, turns out the pinhole was just one of many issues with that joint on the original hose. I have no idea what happened to it but it looks like hell.

Thank you all for the advice and counsel as usual!

That compression fitting looks to be the 100% wrong type.
The brass is the giveaway.

Hydraulic fittings are always steel, as Brass can not hold up to the pressures.

If the loader runs off of a pump on the front of the tractor then it will have it's own fluid reservoir in the right tower of the loader frame.
If the loader runs off of the pump behind the Injection pump then the Sump or main hydraulic reservoir supplies the fluid.

 

[forrest carver]

That compression fitting looks to be the 100% wrong type.
The brass is the giveaway.

Hydraulic fittings are always steel, as Brass can not hold up to the pressures.

If the loader runs off of a pump on the front of the tractor then it will have it's own fluid reservoir in the right tower of the loader frame.
If the loader runs off of the pump behind the Injection pump then the Sump or main hydraulic reservoir supplies the fluid.

Well, shit! What will happen if I try to run this setup as is?

 

[PoTreeBoy]

Well, shit! What will happen if I try to run this setup as is?

Probably blow out and then ??? No brass on hydraulics, that has to be a steel fitting made for hydraulic service.

 

[forrest carver]

Probably blow out and then ??? No brass on hydraulics, that has to be a steel fitting made for hydraulic service.

Welp. $20 and 20 minutes, I guess that's a small price to pay for a valuable lesson on hydraulics.

 

[Dustball]

In addition to what others have said about not using brass fittings for hydraulic, do not use thread tape on compression fittings.

 

[forrest carver]

In addition to what others have said about not using brass fittings for hydraulic, do not use thread tape on compression fittings.

View attachment 151861

Got it. I actually asked the desk person if I should use thread tape and he said yes (also, there is evidence of thread tape on all the other hoses on the tractor.) I guess it makes sense he also I will remove it, thanks for the advice.

Purely out of curiosity, why not? Bits of tape in the system?

 

[TheOldHokie]

Got it. I actually asked the desk person if I should use thread tape and he said yes (also, there is evidence of thread tape on all the other hoses on the tractor.) I guess it makes sense he also I will remove it, thanks for the advice.

Purely out of curiosity, why not? Bits of tape in à system?

The desk guy ia clueless.

You only use thread sealant on joints that seal on the threads. Thats pretty much limited to rigid male pipe connections.

SPECIFICALLY

You do not use thread sealant on fittings that do not seal on the threads:

1. JIC
2. ORB
3. BSPP
4. Compression fitting nuts
5. Female pipe swivels.

Dan