T&T/ Rear Remote Question

Russell King

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Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
Jun 17, 2012
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Austin, Texas
One thing I haven’t seen mentioned is the hoses and fittings that you may have to buy if you don’t buy the kit that includes them.

I think you have a good idea of what you need but you can think of it as a valve on the tractor. There will be three hoses connecting the valve to the tractor.

Then you will have a double acting cylinder attached to the rear of the tractor and three point.
There will be two hoses connecting the cylinder to the valve.
Tilt is one cylinder, top is another cylinder.
You may also want another cylinder for blade angle, or to operate the lift wheel on an implement (something similar to what @mcmxi stated on his flail mower)

The hoses are not astronomically priced but they can be around $300 to $500 for the seven hoses required for valve and two cylinders. There are also covers that protect the hoses that drive the price up towards the top end of the range.

You can look at Fit Rite Hydraulics for information and products sold.

Since each component is basically separate you could build up over time.

You can get an accessory to switch control from one cylinder to another but you still can only control one cylinder at a time. The cost seems to be around the same as adding another control valve.

Summit Hydraulics is a vendor member of this forum now so can pr answers and products also.
 
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mikester

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M59 TLB
Oct 21, 2017
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Canada
www.divergentstuff.ca
Spring center is typical pish/pull lever that automagically retirns to neutral when you let go

The float valve is the same as spring center but has a fourth locking position that lets the cylinder float. Think loader valve.

Self canceling detent is push/pull lever that locks in each position. When the cylinder hits end of stroke it automagically unlocks amd returms to center. Think log splitter valve.

Bottom line is hydraulics is not a poor man's sport.

Dan
There is another option that was unavailable for me at the time. Full flow locking detent and no kick-out. I could only get detent with float when I ordered my M59.

Unfortunately I have to use a bungee to get continuous flow for attachments that require it i.e. my chipper infeed rollers. Float seems like a useless option for me.
 
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The Evil Twin

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L2501, LA526,
Jul 19, 2022
2,409
2,337
113
Virginia
One thing I haven’t seen mentioned is the hoses and fittings that you may have to buy if you don’t buy the kit that includes them.

I think you have a good idea of what you need but you can think of it as a valve on the tractor. There will be three hoses connecting the valve to the tractor.

Then you will have a double acting cylinder attached to the rear of the tractor and three point.
There will be two hoses connecting the cylinder to the valve.
Tilt is one cylinder, top is another cylinder.
You may also want another cylinder for blade angle, or to operate the lift wheel on an implement (something similar to what @mcmxi stated on his flail mower)

The hoses are not astronomically priced but they can be around $300 to $500 for the seven hoses required for valve and two cylinders. There are also covers that protect the hoses that drive the price up towards the top end of the range.

You can look at Fit Rite Hydraulics for information and products sold.

Since each component is basically separate you could build up over time.

You can get an accessory to switch control from one cylinder to another but you still can only control one cylinder at a time. The cost seems to be around the same as adding another control valve.

Summit Hydraulics is a vendor member of this forum now so can pr answers and products also.
You are right. When you create your own kit, the little things start to add up quickly. I know that from racing bikes to building Jeeps. There is always that "one more thing", as well as " oh yeah, and a...." Fortunately, there is a Hydraulics shop 15 minutes away from me.
The only reason I am not considering a kit from Summit is because it's electric. The 3rd function is already on my joystick, and the switch box option doesn't excite me. I would have to see one installed or have it to play with in order to find the right spot to mount it. Having the levers near my butt with an orange kit seems more intuitive.
I'm going to stop by the dealer in the coming weeks and see what they can do for me. Thanks to the PNs provided by the Old Hokie (fellow Vah- Tech guy) I can at least tell them what I'm looking for. We are putting in several hundred feet of fence in soon, so it may be cost prohibitive for a little bit.
 

TheOldHokie

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Lifetime Member

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L3901/LA525, B7200DT/B1630, G2160/RCK60, G2460/RCK60
Apr 6, 2021
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Myersville, MD
windyridgefarm.us
You are right. When you create your own kit, the little things start to add up quickly. I know that from racing bikes to building Jeeps. There is always that "one more thing", as well as " oh yeah, and a...." Fortunately, there is a Hydraulics shop 15 minutes away from me.
The only reason I am not considering a kit from Summit is because it's electric. The 3rd function is already on my joystick, and the switch box option doesn't excite me. I would have to see one installed or have it to play with in order to find the right spot to mount it. Having the levers near my butt with an orange kit seems more intuitive.
I'm going to stop by the dealer in the coming weeks and see what they can do for me. Thanks to the PNs provided by the Old Hokie (fellow Vah- Tech guy) I can at least tell them what I'm looking for. We are putting in several hundred feet of fence in soon, so it may be cost prohibitive for a little bit.
First let me correct the record. TheOldhokie is not Vah-Tech. He is such an old Hokie he is VPI :cool:

As for the Summit electric kits my main concern is you cannot meter flow like you can with a manual valve. When you hit the button on the electric valve it is instantly full open.

I have put together lots of rear remotes and they do nickel and dime you to death. But I can assure you a two spool DIY kit is easily half the cost of OEM.

Dan
 
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The Evil Twin

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L2501, LA526,
Jul 19, 2022
2,409
2,337
113
Virginia
First let me correct the record. TheOldhokie is not Vah-Tech. He is such an old Hokie he is VPI :cool:

As for the Summit electric kits my main concern is you cannot meter flow like you can with a manual valve. When you hit the button on the electric valve it is instantly full open.

Dan
Excellent point on the control also!
In my day, I hmguess it was the transition period. Folks said VPI and Vah Tech. None the less....go Hokies, GO!!
20240214_172200.jpg
 
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The Evil Twin

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L2501, LA526,
Jul 19, 2022
2,409
2,337
113
Virginia
So.... finally got around to my local dealer. Looks like it would be right around $2500 lock stock and barrel.
Unfortunately, the parts guy wasn't a whole lot of help when it came to the self canceling valve. I don't have a log splitter, or anything I would need a self canceling valve for. But ya never know. So the question is can that valve be used with the T&T? Or does it always go full stroke when you move the lever? For now it would be used to tilt the BB or rake. I would want to be able to infinitely adjust the angle.
 

TheOldHokie

Well-known member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
L3901/LA525, B7200DT/B1630, G2160/RCK60, G2460/RCK60
Apr 6, 2021
7,159
3,494
113
Myersville, MD
windyridgefarm.us
So.... finally got around to my local dealer. Looks like it would be right around $2500 lock stock and barrel.
Unfortunately, the parts guy wasn't a whole lot of help when it came to the self canceling valve. I don't have a log splitter, or anything I would need a self canceling valve for. But ya never know. So the question is can that valve be used with the T&T? Or does it always go full stroke when you move the lever? For now it would be used to tilt the BB or rake. I would want to be able to infinitely adjust the angle.
You would not want a self canceling valve for a log splitter. It would kick out as soon as your wedge hit the log. If you ever wanted a log splitter you can add that connection with nothing more than a couple extra hoses and a quick coupler.

For TNT you want spring center or float.

Dan
 
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The Evil Twin

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L2501, LA526,
Jul 19, 2022
2,409
2,337
113
Virginia
You would not want a self canceling valve for a log splitter. It would kick out as soon as your wedge hit the log. If you ever wanted a log splitter you can add that connection with nothing more than a couple extra hoses and a quick coupler.

For TNT you want spring center or float.

Dan
Thank you sir!