Recent content by William1

If it had hours on it, was scratched up, yeah, thats reasonable. But brand new, you paid for it to be new, not repaired and almost new. If your dealer is a great shop, and often cut you favors, then I'd be inclined to do as you did and return the kindness. It is a work machine, not a garage...

New bucket, defective quality = Dealer replace for a new one or they reweld and give you some money back. My quick attach had a bad weld, I did not discover it until the QA broke. Obvious the penetration was non-existent. But years later and my dealer ignored me. It does not seem that uncommon...

When a dealer unloads at an auction, it is a sure sign they don't want the headache. Most dealers will give a 30 day warranty if they sell, otherwise they auction to unload it and buyer beware!

I have a Kohler 23hp Command in my mower. 25 years. Only had a starter relay get flaky (not contacting, requiring multiple on/off before it cranked). Yeah,,,, two starters make me wonder if there is something wonky with the ring gear or as Jim suggests, perhaps the relay is not opening after...

Just letting it idle will probably not heat up the fluid. Drive it operate the FEL, move boulders, grade the drive way, dig a swimming pool. Operate every thing that is hydraulic to move the fluid and you want it hot. At least a few hours of hard work.

My un-expert feeling is... run an acceptable, cheap oil. Half a hour, working all components of the machine. Drain, refill and then run the tractor hard (six hours of work) to get it real hot. Water will 'boil off'. Every hour during this hard day, check the level, it should drop if there is...

I've always used Stabil and I also never let any gasoline site more than about ten months at worst, most engines are either run monthly or fully drained. Never a problem except... when I washed and engine and manged to force water in the fuel!/ Ounce of Stabil and five gallons of fuel. Even...

I'd approach a bit more positive. Since you know the crankcase is way over filled with 'something', I'd drain it, refill with inexpensive oil that you'll use at best, half a hour before you change it again to flush out impurities or worst case, delve in to the engine. Remove the glow...

I can't imagine loading the FEL so severe that it destroys rims. Tire bead roll off? Axles not broken? Lug nuts correct and torqued?

In my case, I believe the 'cuisties' was dead algae. I cut open the filter and the material clogging it was sort of of, like something that bonded to itself as organics (like a scab) do. Had it been rust, it would of been flaky/crumbly, it would not 're-assemble into a solid chunk'.

First filer change (due to poor running) filter near the tank was black with crusties. One after the pump was clean. I replaced both. Five years later, noticed poor running. Crusties again, this time I only replaced the one close to the tank. Tractor is now stored in a dry environment and fuel...

NWS also predicted this was going to be the worst hurricane on record. If anyone could be accurate with predictions, they should go to Vegas and play roulette. I expect my 10% cut. Me? I am near positive about what happened yesterday. Every November, I put skid shoes on my FEL They stay on until...

Quality is important. Cheap chain will kink and destroy sprockets PDQ. Me? I'd buy a quality motorcycle chain, if enough room side to side, a good X or O ring chain in a 420 size (same as a 40 only more robust). One good chain will will last a life time.

Clean and recheck to see EXACTLY where it is seeping from. Baby powder sprinkled on after a time tells the tale.

But was it off the ground during filling? IE, did some book say for example, '11.5 gallons' and the shop money got close and never bothered to bleed out the excess.. My tractor spit the first dozen times I did air pressure checks, perhaps 1/4 teaspoon each time. Honestly, other than bleeding...