Recent content by Grandad4

Kind of hard to figure out what's going on if it's still stuck on the side of the pond, so first task is probably to get it up on flat ground. Low hydraulic fluid might cause the transmission to slip, especially on a really steep slope.

So many BX owners leave the loader on while mowing and also leave the mower on while digging and moving material. BX's are better, more nimble mowers without things hanging off the front and back, and better at tractor chores with the mower deck removed. It's worth learning and practicing how...

Your owners manual will probably have a section about weight distribution and the need for something on the back of the tractor to balance the loader and whatever is in the bucket. The reason the back tires are so much larger is because it is expected that most of the weight will be on the...

I also had a 4560 hoe for my L. Good old setup that never let me down. Sure sounds like yours might have something internal to the spool block but before getting into it, check the hydraulic fluid and also the lines for any kinks, bends or blockage that might obstruct flow. Never had a...

Kub doesn't change the design of its 3 point components very often and Grand L's have come with telescoping links for many years. So something from an older tractor series might fit. Still pricey but probably less than new. They occasionally show up on ebay and you might have luck checking...

Years ago there were some Kubota models that were vulnerable to transmission box breakage from too much load or stress on the 3 point toplink. Kubota sold optional toplink reinforcing kits that added a bracket to strengthen the top of the transmission case. I put one on my L4610 since we used...

Subject of endless debate. Here's another point of view. Overloading the rear wheel bearings is not the issue, it's the front axle. All or most of the weight of whatever is on the FEL is carried on the front wheels. Something hanging off the back offsets the loader weight to some degree...

The faster the tiller spins and deeper it digs, the more it will try to push the tractor. You'll need to try different combinations of engine rpm and digging depth to find what gives the best results with your tractor and soil conditions. In hard ground, multiple passes yield better results

Glad you avoided disaster and are Ok. Such a simple thing - engage the front axle - but do it often enough and the odds of eventually forgetting/mis-engaging begin to stack up. The value of a parking brake indicator comes up from time to time in various threads... a 4wd indicator might be just...

As a teenager back when Eisenhower was President, I once buried a Ferguson TO-20 in mud like that, along with the loaded manure spreader it was pulling. Having to use a pitchfork to unload the spreader, which I had just loaded the same way, taught me to be plenty cautious when heading onto...

Making sure there's no fuel blockage is still a good idea.

150 hours of use over ten years is just a very few hours each year. Would have to wonder about the condition of the fuel in the tank and possible contamination.

On paper it might look like that tiller could be a handful for the L2501's modest PTO HP, but since you have sandy soil and a limited area to work, it's worth trying it before deciding it won't work. I had the same tiller... well made and reliable.

I used both a BX and a 46 hp L for many years and 1,000+ hours on each. The L had split brakes, the BX, obviously not. Came to the conclusion there were only 2 uses for the split brakes. 1. To control wheel spin in mud/snow. 2. Making minimum radius turns in field work. For the low traction...

Two other suggestions about starting: 1. Check to make sure the HST pedal is exactly centered in the neutral position. There is a starter cutoff if the pedal is even slightly off the neutral position. 2. The starter switch has a 4 position sequence: Off - Run - Glow - Start. To glow the...