B2710 leaking at fuel injection pump

[Lineituplawncare]

Sorry I didn’t know if it’d be same or not and yessir I found the thing that moves it and had it lined up perfectly the problem is once it slides down far enough the plunger for the fuel shut off switch hits the slider and makes it unaligned before you can actually set it fully down. Taking it out was my first thought but not one socket, wrench, etc will fit the bolt between the motor and the fuel shut off switch. So I’m thinking there has to be a way to get the plunger to retract without taking it out. It’s also siliconed in there. Added a picture for reference. But there’s only two wires running to the switch so I was just going to try to wire it to a positive and negative and see if it opened but really don’t wanna break it because I can’t get it off lol…

Should say the size will fit the actual wrench/ socket won’t due to lack of space. I tried to look up a thin walked 10 mm but haven’t found anything that looks like it’d work. I have no clue how they got it on there. Tried an extension with a swivel 1/4 in drive tried wrenches they won’t go on, tried ratcheting wrench it won’t go on nothing will fit it. I need like a screw driver 10 mm

 

[Lineituplawncare]

Guess I’m going to buy these wrenches and some rtv tmr to take that fuel shut off switch off hoping these wrenches will work if not idk what to try next. Would be real nice if they sold an updated one where the screws are fare enough away from the actual unit itself that a socket would fit.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Both the red and white wires are +, case is ground, one wire will pull the solenoid in, the other will hold the solenoid in.
You'll be able to tell when you put power to it, just do not leave power on the pull coil for too long or it will burn it up.

And to note your deleted post... TAKE A DEEP BREATH, this is simple you just have to work through it.

 

[Lineituplawncare]

Both the red and white wires are +, case is ground, one wire will pull the solenoid in, the other will hold the solenoid in.
You'll be able to tell when you put power to it, just do not leave power on the pull coil for too long or it will burn it up.

And to note your deleted post... TAKE A DEEP BREATH, this is simple you just have to work through it.

Just to make sure when you said one wire will pull it in and one wire will hold it in you meant to say hold it out correct? Just want to make sure. So in theory you should be able to hold a ground on the case and stick a positive and it’ll either suck in or stay out like it already is? Then that was my biggest fear was burning it up holding it for too long but realistically I just need it to stay closed maybe 30 seconds. Also where the thing lines up and falls in place, there is a thing with a v that looks like it would kind of hold the pin then there is a gap next to that inbetween it and another arm it’s connected to… they both move independently but somewhat together. I figured the pin needed to go in the gap between them but not sure. Pic of what I’m referring too. Thanks wolfman really appreciate the help was trying to look everywhere to see how to make the plunger suck in and weather it was safe to do. I was going to use a test light to jump power so maybe the light burns out before the switch does kinda like a fuse or I even have an inline fuse holder I could wire in and put a 5amp fuse in so that it definitely doesn’t get hurt.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

NO not one pushes out, they both pull in.
Here is Exactly how to do it.
To verify the white is hold and red is pull, touch each wire, only one will snap, that is the pull in coil, it should be red.
Have a power lead, put one wire on the white wire, nothing happens, keep that wire on and touch the red wire momentarily, you should hear /see the rod pull in and stay in, it will stay in safely without burning the coil up for as long as you need, hours if you so desire.
keeping the white wire on holds the coil in.
If you keep a wire on the red ( pull in coil ) too long that will burn it up.

This is where the rack pin goes.

 

[Lineituplawncare]

Just to make sure when you said one wire will pull it in and one wire will hold it in you meant to say hold it out correct? Just want to make sure. So in theory you should be able to hold a ground on the case and stick a positive and it’ll either suck in or stay out like it already is? Then that was my biggest fear was burning it up holding it for too long but realistically I just need it to stay closed maybe 30 seconds. Also where the thing lines up and falls in place, there is a thing with a v that looks like it would kind of hold the pin then there is a gap next to that inbetween it and another arm it’s connected to… they both move independently but somewhat together. I figured the pin needed to go in the gap between them but not sure. Pic of what I’m referring too. Thanks wolfman really appreciate the help was trying to look everywhere to see how to make the plunger suck in and weather it was safe to do. I was going to use a test light to jump power so maybe the light burns out before the switch does kinda like a fuse or I even have an inline fuse holder I could wire in and put a 5amp fuse in so that it definitely doesn’t get hurt.

So update, went out grounded the switch and put power to both connections at different times, and it didn’t suck in. The light on the test light was lighting up but nothing was happening.

 

[Lineituplawncare]

NO not one pushes out, they both pull in.
Here is Exactly how to do it.
To verify the white is hold and red is pull, touch each wire, only one will snap, that is the pull in coil, it should be red.
Have a power lead, put one wire on the white wire, nothing happens, keep that wire on and touch the red wire momentarily, you should hear /see the rod pull in and stay in, it will stay in safely without burning the coil up for as long as you need, hours if you so desire.
keeping the white wire on holds the coil in.
If you keep a wire on the red ( pull in coil ) too long that will burn it up.

This is where the rack pin goes.

View attachment 147720

Amazing info thank you. Just for other b2710 owners that may see this in the future my wires were switched around my red was gold and white was pull.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

You can not use a test light to pull it in.
Use a piece of wire.

Stop solenoids have 2 coils (red wire is one coil, white wire is one coil)
One low ohms coil (pull coil) is a strong magnet, but gets hot if powered too long.
One high ohm coil (hold coil) low power magnet, but will hold a pulled in cylinder for a long time without getting hot.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Amazing info thank you. Just for other b2710 owners that may see this in the future my wires were switched around my red was gold and white was pull.

Yes they vary with different manufactures of the stop solenoids.

 

[Lineituplawncare]

Still wasn’t the fuel shutoff switch lol. It’s completely out of the way now it goes all the way down but the front roller hits the cam lobe and won’t go down any farther go figure looks like they gave me some sort of after market pump housing or some shit and it’s the wrong one. Have no clue why it won’t work at this point. About to just hire a professional i don’t understand at all it should be just dropping in place right now.

Yes they vary with different manufactures of the stop solenoids.

 

[Lineituplawncare]

Still wasn’t the fuel shutoff switch lol. It’s completely out of the way now it goes all the way down but the front roller hits the cam lobe and won’t go down any farther go figure looks like they gave me some sort of after market pump housing or some shit and it’s the wrong one. Have no clue why it won’t work at this point. About to just hire a professional i don’t understand at all it should be just dropping in place right now.

Crazy guess but do those rollers go up and down? And if so would removing the blue caps allow it to move up? If so after a rebuild now that I know everything is going in right do I kinda have to get those rollers to seat correctly around the cam lobes?

 

[Lineituplawncare]

Crazy guess but do those rollers go up and down? And if so would removing the blue caps allow it to move up? If so after a rebuild now that I know everything is going in right do I kinda have to get those rollers to seat correctly around the cam lobes? Also am I aiming for the gab or the v? I can’t tell from their stupid drawing of the back side of where it goes that you’d only be able to see if I cut the engine block out.

Blue caps

Crazy guess but do those rollers go up and down? And if so would removing the blue caps allow it to move up? If so after a rebuild now that I know everything is going in right do I kinda have to get those rollers to seat correctly around the cam lobes?

i removed blue caps and didn’t push on it hard enough to break anything etc and constant pressure to see if it’d go down and it didn’t. Must be some crazy thing I’m missing here getting pretty frustrating at this point to be honest. It has got to be the linkage stopping me from getting it and I should be aiming for the v but there honestly isn’t anyway to get it into that.

 

[Lineituplawncare]

So just to clearify this is where the little metal peg goes correct? And not in the v shaped thing next to what I circled correct?

 

[Lineituplawncare]

So I’m pretty positive I’m getting the pin into where it needs to be. I watched a YouTube video of a similar tractor but 3 cylinder and the guys pump kinda did the same thing but he had his side cover off and after everything was in place he just put the bolts and nuts on and righted it down to it went completely down. Is this how I would do it too? I think I have enough of the studs etc to tighten it down after it’s in that position. Just not real sure. Calling it a night going to do research and figure out as much as I can.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

4 is the V, so not in the V but 2

Pull the side cover as you will be able to see what's going on in there.

 

[Lineituplawncare]

4 is the V, so not in the V but 2

Pull the side cover as you will be able to see what's going on in there.


View attachment 147728

I will tmr I’m pretty sure all the linkages etc run through it so I’d have to take apart the throttle to do that as well. I’d really rather not have to do all that. This is turning into a wayyy bigger project than I had planned for. Everyone made it sound like ohh ha-ha pull the pump send it out throw it in and be done… and it’s not like that what so ever. I’m just lost. Either the company that rebuilt the pump fucked up or I’m just an idiot. It’d be great to speak to someone that has physically done one before on this same motor and ask him why mine is doing this. I’m just so lost.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I will tmr I’m pretty sure all the linkages etc run through it so I’d have to take apart the throttle to do that as well. I’d really rather not have to do all that. This is turning into a wayyy bigger project than I had planned for. Everyone made it sound like ohh ha-ha pull the pump send it out throw it in and be done… and it’s not like that what so ever. I’m just lost. Either the company that rebuilt the pump fucked up or I’m just an idiot. It’d be great to speak to someone that has physically done one before on this same motor and ask him why mine is doing this. I’m just so lost.

I've done quite a few of them, and I'm lost as to why your having issues too.
It is possible that you've got a lobe up on the fuel cam, that will make them feel odd putting it in.

This right here is most likely your issue.

2 more manuals both verify that it goes behind the V not in it.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

This picture tells me your not getting the rack pin in the proper location on the governor linkage.

 

[Lineituplawncare]

I've done quite a few of them, and I'm lost as to why your having issues too.
It is possible that you've got a lobe up on the fuel cam, that will make them feel odd putting it in.

This right here is most likely your issue.

View attachment 147730

2 more manuals both verify that it goes behind the V not in it.

View attachment 147731

Yeah the front lob is on the highest setting and is hitting the roller of the pump. I was a good 99% positive I was getting the pin lined up properly etc. the wider I open the thing on the side the wider the gap gets for the pin so it should drop in fairly easy and I think it has the whole time. I honestly just think I’m going to have to put the nuts on and tighten it down and see what happens. I think I might be being a little too gentle with it and it’s just going to taking some presssure to get it to seat down all the way because it was just rebuilt. I really hope it’s just that. I hate to push on it real hard but it’s either that or put the bolts in and tighten it up. Ps it’s probably just me, I’m working on something that’s a little over my pay grade and I don’t really know how it works. I know how valves work and I assume the pump rides those cams and goes up when it’s supposed to fire fuel.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Read into this more you have the very early style governor linkage, I don't think there is a slot in the front of the V, I think the pin might have to fit into the v.
This has been an issue before, as the other style has a second slot that the pin can fit into that is also wrong.