B6200 Three Point Issues

[Ripp]

Hello All-
Yesterday I was skidding logs and had an issue with the hitch collapsing and not maintaining a set hight under weight. Not sure if the log I was too much. Wouldn’t have thought so.. however. I switch the lever on my block to bypass the fel and no real difference . I had the rpms up to operating speed- stood on the hitch and it went down. Now- I weigh 180 and it should hold me. I push the rpm’s up a little higher (3k) and it held my weight.

the control lever is sloppy; need to replace the bushing- not sure if that’s the main cause though. TIA

 

[TheOldHokie]

Hello All-
Yesterday I was skidding logs and had an issue with the hitch collapsing and not maintaining a set hight under weight. Not sure if the log I was too much. Wouldn’t have thought so.. however. I switch the lever on my block to bypass the fel and no real difference . I had the rpms up to operating speed- stood on the hitch and it went down. Now- I weigh 180 and it should hold me. I push the rpm’s up a little higher (3k) and it held my weight.

the control lever is sloppy; need to replace the bushing- not sure if that’s the main cause though. TIA

First off moving the lever on the outlet block does not byass the loader valve and confuses things. If you want to bypass the loader valve you.must plug the two outlets AND move the lever.

Put the lever back om the loader position and recheck the 3pt. If its still weak I.would break out a pressure gaugec and start with a couple simple pressure checks .

Dan

 

[Ripp]

First off moving the lever on the outlet block does not byass the loader valve and confuses things. If you want to bypass the loader valve you.must plug the two outlets AND move the lever.

Put the lever back om the loader position and recheck the 3pt. If its still weak I.would break out a pressure gaugec and start with a couple simple pressure checks .

Dan

It's been suggested that I have a bad lift piston O ring. Parts 100 and 110. I'm assuming its all under the cylinder cover?

 

[TheOldHokie]

It's been suggested that I have a bad lift piston O ring. Parts 100 and 110. I'm assuming its all under the cylinder cover?

View attachment 139379

It could be but do yourself a favor and test pressure before tearing things apart.

Dan

 

[N3BP]

Tighten up the slop on your control lever. Should be a 10mm nut. If the lever isn't keyed and your slop is excessive, maybe the unit isn't responding?

 

[Ripp]

It could be but do yourself a favor and test pressure before tearing things apart.

Dan

I don’t have the tools or the experience to do that.

 

[RCW]

I don’t have the tools or the experience to do that.

I don't want to speak out of school - - but I'm betting Dan can talk you through it if he's inclined and you're willing to learn a few things.

I don't have the tools nor experience either, but I've seen Dan walk folks through this kind of thing many times.

Being recently retired, I have gauges and some fittings needed to do such things on my Wish List. Not a lot of $$ needed to accomplish that. $$ well spent to diagnose problems versus throwing parts at it.

Dan is very savvy with hydraulics, and his instructional aptitude is very good.

 

[TheOldHokie]

I don’t have the tools or the experience to do that.

You can buy a pressure gauge for $10 and testing is simple. If you are going to work on the tractor hydraulics a pressure gauge is essential test equipment.

https://a.co/d/gd6hjZx

First thing to do once you have the gsuge is disconnect the P hose on the loader valve and connect it to the gauge. Start the engine and read the pressure. Should be roughly 2000 PSI. If its not there is something wrong with the supply.

Dan

 

[Ripp]

Tighten up the slop on your control lever. Should be a 10mm nut. If the lever isn't keyed and your slop is excessive, maybe the unit isn't responding?

Thinking about trying that. Lever is sloppy. Was looking into replacement parts.

You can buy a pressure gauge for $10 and testing is simple. If you are going to work on the tractor hydraulics a pressure gauge is essential test equipment.

https://a.co/d/gd6hjZx

First thing to do once you have the gsuge is disconnect the P hose on the loader valve and connect it to the gauge. Start the engine and read the pressure. Should be roughly 2000 PSI. If its not there is something wrong with the supply.

Dan

"P Hose" meaning the supply from the pump?

 

[TheOldHokie]

"P Hose" meaning the supply from the pump?

Yes. That test will give you a baseline number for how much pressure the pump can actually deliver.

You can also use a bungee or piece of string to prevent the 3pt lever from drifting down. Its not a fix but helpful in terms of identifying internal leakage in the 3pt cylinder.

Dan

 

[Ripp]

Yes. That test will give you a baseline number for how much pressure the pump can actually deliver.

You can also use a bungee or piece of string to prevent the 3pt lever from drifting down. Its not a fix but helpful in terms of identifying internal leakage in the 3pt cylinder.

Dan

Filter?

 

[TheOldHokie]

Filter?

No - ordinary banjo bolt.

Dan

 

[Ripp]

No - ordinary banjo bolt.

Dan

I thought there was a filter behind there. Guess I gotta look harder— Thanks Dan for all your input.

 

[TheOldHokie]

I thought there was a filter behind there. Guess I gotta look harder— Thanks Dan for all your input.

You are looking in the wrong place.

Dan

 

[Ripp]

Yes. That test will give you a baseline number for how much pressure the pump can actually deliver.

You can also use a bungee or piece of string to prevent the 3pt lever from drifting down. Its not a fix but helpful in terms of identifying internal leakage in the 3pt cylinder.

Dan

Got the gauge. Just want to confirm the P hose. I was thinking the supply line coming off the block would work..

 

[TheOldHokie]

Got the gauge. Just want to confirm the P hose. I was thinking the supply line coming off the block would work..

You got it. The P (pump pressure) hose is the one coming off the front port on the block.

Dan

 

[Ripp]

You got it. The P (pump pressure) hose is the one coming off the front port on the block.

Dan

Either this is bad or I didn’t do it right…

 

[TheOldHokie]

Either this is bad or I didn’t do it right…

You did good and got it 99% right. You are one small step short of getting your measurement.

The reason the pressure is showing close to zero is because you are teed into the supply line. The flow is going straight through the open center of the loader valve and back to tank so very little pressure is developed in the circuit. Thats how an open center valve works.

Move the loader valve to any position other than float and hold it there until the cylinder stalls. That shuts off the through flow and as soon as the cylinder stalls the pump will be pumping into a dead end and pressure will spike to max.

Dan

 

[Ripp]

You did good and got it 99% right. You are one small step short of getting your measurement.

The reason the pressure is showing close to zero is because you are teed into the supply line. The flow is going straight through the open center of the loader valve and back to tank so very little pressure is developed in the circuit. Thats how an open center valve works.

Move the loader valve to any position other than float and hold it there until the cylinder stalls. That shuts off the through flow and as soon as the cylinder stalls the pump will be pumping into a dead end and pressure will spike to max.

Dan

Makes sense. I did that and pressure maxed out at 1500 at full rpm

 

[TheOldHokie]

Makes sense. I did that and pressure maxed out at 1500 at full rpm

The pressure specification is 2060 PSI so you are way under. Sonething is out of spec.

With the gauge connected that way we cant tell if the problem is the pump, tractor relief valve, or loader relief valve. If you disconnect the hose and connect the gauge directly to the end of the hose you will ekiminate the loader valve. Start the tractor and you should immediatly see high pressure. Do not rum the engine any lomger than it tskes to get a pressure reading.

Dan