Broke lift arm turnbuckle stabilizer on my L275DT- what to replace assembly with?

timsch

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Equipment
'49 8N, L275DT
Jun 11, 2018
113
21
18
Houston, TX
I got impatient and heavy handed with a rust frozen threaded rod in the stabilizer turnbuckle and sheared it off at the thread. I'd consider welding it back, but that'd probably not hold up to the torque required to get the still stuck rod out even if I keep soaking it with Kroil.

IMG_0162.jpg


I've seen similar turnbuckles, as well as chains, but looking into this, I found out about telescoping stabilizers. I haven't found any that will work for my L275 yet though. I don't know if there are adapter kits for some telescoping stabilizers.

The OEM stabilizer connected with a 16mm shaft going through the lift arm and a nut on the other side. I can salvage that part of it as needed.

What is my best option here? the tractor gets somewhat limited use, so I can deal with a little bit of a PITA regarding adjustments as long as it's a reliable solution.
 

Trimley

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BX23SLSB-R-1 plus additions
Jul 25, 2023
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Jerry Riggins might have a solution. Maybe he'll hop in here with some ideas.
 

chim

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L4240HSTC with FEL, Ford 1210
Jan 19, 2013
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I'd kroil, heat, wax or whatever to try and extract the threaded part. Small pipe wrench on it or grab it in a vise. See if you can find just that end of the assembly at a dealership. If you can't find it just buy a piece of left-handed allthread. You can cut the broken part out of the eye and weld the allthread into it. Short pieces are on the net for under $10.
 

timsch

Member

Equipment
'49 8N, L275DT
Jun 11, 2018
113
21
18
Houston, TX
I'd kroil, heat, wax or whatever to try and extract the threaded part. Small pipe wrench on it or grab it in a vise. See if you can find just that end of the assembly at a dealership. If you can't find it just buy a piece of left-handed allthread. You can cut the broken part out of the eye and weld the allthread into it. Short pieces are on the net for under $10.
It was a pipe wrench and a vice that got me into this predicament. Those threads are stuck pretty bad. Overnight Kroil soaking was not quite sufficient. I was heating and adding wax this morning, and I thought I was getting movement on one side, but then the other side that was clamped in the vice broke.

Maybe a week long soaking with Kroil would have worked. I'll probably need the tractor before then, hence my impatience this morning. I should have known better....
 

fried1765

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Equipment
Kubota L48 TLB, Ford 1920 FEL, Ford 8N, SCAG Liberty Z, Gravely Pro.
Nov 14, 2019
7,696
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Eastham, Ma
I'd kroil, heat, wax or whatever to try and extract the threaded part. Small pipe wrench on it or grab it in a vise. See if you can find just that end of the assembly at a dealership. If you can't find it just buy a piece of left-handed allthread. You can cut the broken part out of the eye and weld the allthread into it. Short pieces are on the net for under $10.
I had a similar situation.
I clamped the part vertically in a vise, and sprayed the threads (and tapped) daily with Kroil.
Took a couple weeks, but eventually the Kroil followed the threads, and I got the assembly apart.
PATIENCE!
 

TheOldHokie

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L3901/LA525, B7200DT/B1630, G2160/RCK60, G2460/RCK60
Apr 6, 2021
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windyridgefarm.us
I got impatient and heavy handed with a rust frozen threaded rod in the stabilizer turnbuckle and sheared it off at the thread. I'd consider welding it back, but that'd probably not hold up to the torque required to get the still stuck rod out even if I keep soaking it with Kroil.

View attachment 138169

I've seen similar turnbuckles, as well as chains, but looking into this, I found out about telescoping stabilizers. I haven't found any that will work for my L275 yet though. I don't know if there are adapter kits for some telescoping stabilizers.

The OEM stabilizer connected with a 16mm shaft going through the lift arm and a nut on the other side. I can salvage that part of it as needed.

What is my best option here? the tractor gets somewhat limited use, so I can deal with a little bit of a PITA regarding adjustments as long as it's a reliable solution.
A heavy duty turnbuckle of the appropriate size will do the job. Readily available at TSC or hardware stores. I have two purchased from TSC on my old B7200.

Dan
 

fj40dave

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B2650, LA534, BH77, TPD35, RCF2060, BB1566, RGA1258
Sep 24, 2009
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Give Lance Newhall a shout....he always has a source for stuff when i've needed it before for these elderly L models!



007kubotaguy
Hello. You can reach me at 209-712-4066.
I am in central california. Thank you
Lance Newhall
 

GreensvilleJay

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BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
Apr 2, 2019
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Don't soak, SUBMERGE the part(preferably quite warm) in oil, then walk away for at least 2 days.
You need patience to allow oil to slowly seep into the threads.
 

Russell King

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L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
Jun 17, 2012
5,157
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Austin, Texas
There is a member @hodge that can make you a custom set. I recall he may have some difficulty with where they attach (on a L185) but your’s seem much longer than those.

See this thread for examples.

He may have a long lead time??

I would try to repair yours for the interim term.
 

timsch

Member

Equipment
'49 8N, L275DT
Jun 11, 2018
113
21
18
Houston, TX
I'll try to fix them for backups. If I can make a sleeve to slip over the welded joint and then weld that also, the strength would be there. I'd lose a few threads, but will anyway.

I've soaked parts in diesel fuel before (not this part), without any success. I didn't heat them before, though. I don't know if oil would be different...
 

TheOldHokie

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L3901/LA525, B7200DT/B1630, G2160/RCK60, G2460/RCK60
Apr 6, 2021
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Myersville, MD
windyridgefarm.us
I'll try to fix them for backups. If I can make a sleeve to slip over the welded joint and then weld that also, the strength would be there. I'd lose a few threads, but will anyway.

I've soaked parts in diesel fuel before (not this part), without any success. I didn't heat them before, though. I don't know if oil would be different...
 
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hodge

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Nov 19, 2010
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Love, VA
There is a member @hodge that can make you a custom set. I recall he may have some difficulty with where they attach (on a L185) but your’s seem much longer than those.

See this thread for examples.

He may have a long lead time??

I would try to repair yours for the interim term.
For the record, my long lead time has dwindled over the last 3 1/2 years. I am down to working week to week, so the lead time is typically a week or so for now.
 
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jimh406

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If you have a Tractor Supply or similar farm store, stop by there and see what they have that will work.
 
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Russell King

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L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
Jun 17, 2012
5,157
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Austin, Texas
For the record, my long lead time has dwindled over the last 3 1/2 years. I am down to working week to week, so the lead time is typically a week or so for now.
Well that’s good news. I won’t mention anything about long lead time again!
 

Smokeydog

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M59, B26 grapples, backhoes, tillers, graders, diesel atv
Jun 2, 2020
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knoxville, Tennessee
IMG_0669.jpeg
I’
These import telescopic sway bars were common years ago eBay, amazon, weavers. Modified to fit both the M59 and B26(photo). Have held up to lots abuse from mowing and grading. Had to do a little welding for the B26. Change some hardware and bolts for the M59.