What did you do to or on your Kubota today?

g_man

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L3010DT, M5640SUD, Dresser TD7G
Feb 3, 2023
142
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NE Vermont
I had to remove a couple of Oak trees which gave me an opportunity to get some needed bridge lumber, etc.
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This Red Oak had some rot so I had to buck a couple of firewood rounds off to get to good wood.

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This is a nice Post Oak.

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Skidding er out.

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Three of the 5 logs are out to the sawmill. I will probably skid the other two out before I start sawing.
Nice logs magic. What are you going to build for a bridge ?

gg
 

Magicman

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M4900 Utility Special 4WD e/w FEL & 1530 John Deere "Traveling Man"
Oct 8, 2019
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knotholesawmill.com
The Post Oak will become 2" bridge decking and the Cherrybark Oak will be the "etc". It will become the railing around my newly rebuilt back porch.
 
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mcmxi

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***Current*** M6060HDC, MX6000HSTC & GL7000 ***Sold*** MX6000HST & BX25DLB
Feb 9, 2021
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I wish😁 wife might put me in the freezer.
Maybe a couple of Dexter cows would go unnoticed. And if not, you could tell the wife that they belong to the neighbors but they keep wandering onto your property. 😂 I saw a pair of beautiful draft horses (sisters) for sale on Craigslist yesterday. If I were set up for them and had a nice pasture I'd be all over that.
 
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RMS

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LX2610HSDC, RCR1260, PFL1242, LX2963, RB1684, WC-68,Flail Mower,Z421
Sep 26, 2021
210
378
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Buckfield Maine
Just hit 300 safe and mostly trouble frer hrs this morning. I have to give credit to alot of folks on this forum for that. Reading thru many posts (not all applicable at the time) I have learned much about operating and maintaining my machine.
Thanks to all who post and share their experiences and knowledge.
 

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PHPaul

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B2650, Pronovost snow blower, Landpride rotary mower, Howard tiller, box blade
Apr 2, 2015
1,002
914
113
Downeast Maine
www.eastovershoe.com
I have about 3 acres of what used to be sheep pasture. I sold the sheep 8 years ago, but I keep it mowed to keep the alders from creeping back in.

I have three sections I call the Upper, Lower and South "pastures", about an acre apiece.

Just finished 2nd mowing of the South pasture, and the wetter part of the Upper pasture that I didn't dare try last time. Probably shouldn't have this time, but it was getting pretty ugly.

Noticed that the hour meter was at 701.6 so pulled up to the shop and I'm doing an oil and filter change. The Book says every 200 hours, but I don't put that many hours on it and change every 100 which works out to be about once a year, which seems reasonable to me.
 
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beckmurph

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Kubota LX2610TLB/Woods finish mower/woods rotary cutter/
Aug 23, 2012
301
253
63
catlettsburg, ky
Changed the oil, filter, outer air filter.
Fuel filter and front axle fluid, which should have been changed at 400hrs.
524 hours.
 
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mcmxi

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***Current*** M6060HDC, MX6000HSTC & GL7000 ***Sold*** MX6000HST & BX25DLB
Feb 9, 2021
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I removed a new refrigerator from the smaller dump trailer, and then moved the snow blower to its summer home.

The more observant will notice that the front guard on the flail is messed up. I ran the flail yesterday over the area where the small dump trailer had been sitting and forgot to pick up the large wooden block that I use under the jack. The grass was long enough that I didn't see it and the flail tore it up, but not before it tried to exit out of the front. The guard did it's job and prevented injury or serious damage, but I'll need to repair the bar that the guards swing on. Not a difficult fix, but annoying when we create work for ourselves.

mx6000_refrigerator_05_29_24.jpg


mx6000_05_29_24.jpg
 
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WI_Hedgehog

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BX2370 (impliment details in Profile-About)
Apr 24, 2024
209
202
43
Milwaukee, Wisconsin, U.S.A.
When I bought the BX2370 used the owner needed a pry bar to get the mid-PTO coupler to move forward so it would release, and it was a struggle to attach/detach it when installing/removing the mid-mount mower deck.

I cleaned the shaft and coupling with Xylene and a wire brush, let it dry, then greased liberally (and wiped away the superfluous liberals). It now takes a light pull with the tips of two fingers to lock the coupling open and a slight bump once in position for it to automatically lock closed. The slip-joint is now greased-piglet slippery.

The only down-side is my grease gun wouldn't stay on the zerks without a third hand holding it, so I went to the farm supply store and did not buy any of the cheap Asian import couplers, opting instead to order a LockNLube.

20240525_163358.jpg
lubed, scraped, and hosed down the deck (guards removed for cleaning)
 
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S-G-R

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LX3310
Jun 17, 2020
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PEI Canada
I removed a new refrigerator from the smaller dump trailer, and then moved the snow blower to its summer home.

The more observant will notice that the front guard on the flail is messed up. I ran the flail yesterday over the area where the small dump trailer had been sitting and forgot to pick up the large wooden block that I use under the jack. The grass was long enough that I didn't see it and the flail tore it up, but not before it tried to exit out of the front. The guard did it's job and prevented injury or serious damage, but I'll need to repair the bar that the guards swing on. Not a difficult fix, but annoying when we create work for ourselves.

View attachment 129593

View attachment 129592
The block was moving a good clip to do that.
 

mcmxi

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***Current*** M6060HDC, MX6000HSTC & GL7000 ***Sold*** MX6000HST & BX25DLB
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NW Montana
The block was moving a good clip to do that.
The block was about 8"x8"x12" and it mangled the 5/8" rod like it was a piece of spaghetti. I have lots of material laying around and also the original rod that was damaged during shipping. I had repaired that rod but GWTC sent me a replacement at no charge.

I was supposed to cut a few acres of overgrown stuff for someone last weekend, but got rained out. I'm heading to his place tomorrow afternoon so need to get the flail repaired today. Not a big job but it's still work.
 

mcmxi

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***Current*** M6060HDC, MX6000HSTC & GL7000 ***Sold*** MX6000HST & BX25DLB
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NW Montana
A few posts above this one shows the damage I did last night to the rod that supports the front guards. I found the original front guard support rod and then soon remembered why I asked Courtney at GWTC to send me a new one. It was badly damaged in shipping and it was near impossible to get the rod true enough for the guards to slide on. Luckily I have a bunch of 5/8" rod that I bought a couple of years ago on Craigslist for pennies and was able to make a new rod out of that.

I repurposed the plug that I cut out of one of the pallet forks a few weeks ago. I rarely throw steel away, even small pieces, and this reminded me why. It makes a nice end stop for the rod. I drilled out the other end for a retaining pin. The belt guard was damaged during shipping too but I didn't fix it until this evening so it only took a little over two years to get around to it. :rolleyes: The seam around the top wasn't welded but was nicely done with a minimal gap. Since I had the welder fired up and was fixing the rod, I decided to fully weld the seam and get the guard back on the flail. I ordered color matched paint when I first received the flail since I needed to do some touch up. I'm not a painter but got one coat on the belt guard repair this evening. I'll put another coat on either tonight or tomorrow before heading out to cut a field for someone.

I'm pleased with the guard rod replacement and the work on the belt guard. The top rod is the original one that was damaged in shipping that I tried to straighten. The rod I damaged yesterday is shown in two pieces since I had to cut it to get the guards off. The rod I made is below that, and the stock I made it from is at the bottom.

I really like this flail, and the more I work on it the more I like it. It's easy to work on, repairs seem to be easy thus far, and it does a great job of cutting everything from grass to thick weeds and brush.

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Chanceywd

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Kubota L2501DT BH77 VIRNIG URG60-CT 1950 8N
Mar 26, 2021
583
420
63
central ny
A few posts above this one shows the damage I did last night to the rod that supports the front guards. I found the original front guard support rod and then soon remembered why I asked Courtney at GWTC to send me a new one. It was badly damaged in shipping and it was near impossible to get the rod true enough for the guards to slide on. Luckily I have a bunch of 5/8" rod that I bought a couple of years ago on Craigslist for pennies and was able to make a new rod out of that.

I repurposed the plug that I cut out of one of the pallet forks a few weeks ago. I rarely throw steel away, even small pieces, and this reminded me why. It makes a nice end stop for the rod. I drilled out the other end for a retaining pin. The belt guard was damaged during shipping too but I didn't fix it until this evening so it only took a little over two years to get around to it. :rolleyes: The seam around the top wasn't welded but was nicely done with a minimal gap. Since I had the welder fired up and was fixing the rod, I decided to fully weld the seam and get the guard back on the flail. I ordered color matched paint when I first received the flail since I needed to do some touch up. I'm not a painter but got one coat on the belt guard repair this evening. I'll put another coat on either tonight or tomorrow before heading out to cut a field for someone.

I'm pleased with the guard rod replacement and the work on the belt guard. The top rod is the original one that was damaged in shipping that I tried to straighten. The rod I damaged yesterday is shown in two pieces since I had to cut it to get the guards off. The rod I made is below that, and the stock I made it from is at the bottom.

I really like this flail, and the more I work on it the more I like it. It's easy to work on, repairs seem to be easy thus far, and it does a great job of cutting everything from grass to thick weeds and brush.

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Nice job and being a fellow steel hoarder I am always saving any hole saw plugs for use too.

I am getting ready to change my well pump.Yesterday I was measuring and making the pipe to pull the pitless . I haven't done one in a while and was thinking it was 3/4 bur it turns out it is 1". In my steel I found about a 7' piece of 1" to make it out of. Shouldn't be too bad of a job as it is only down about 100' on black plastic but it was put in about 30 yrs ago and I don't want it to fail in say the middle of winter.

You get extra credit for painting, I seldom get to that.

Bill
 
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rc51stierhoff

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B2650, MX6000, Ford 8N, (BX sold)
Sep 13, 2021
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mcmxi

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***Current*** M6060HDC, MX6000HSTC & GL7000 ***Sold*** MX6000HST & BX25DLB
Feb 9, 2021
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Nice job and being a fellow steel hoarder I am always saving any hole saw plugs for use too.
Thanks! I think I have a bit of a problem with hoarding steel. I have a hard time throwing out even the smallest piece.

Good luck on the well pump replacement. Are you going to use your tractor to pull the pump?

I have an "abandoned" well on my property that is 550 ft deep. The pump is still down there with all the wiring and I'd like to get it working again even if it's just a pump house sitting over the casing. A few summers ago, after being told by the previous homeowner that the well had dried up, I dropped a small stone down the casing and heard a splash. I dropped another while using a stopwatch to time the fall, and then calculated that the water level was around 250 ft down.
 
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S-G-R

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LX3310
Jun 17, 2020
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PEI Canada
Took off the tiller and put the RFM on and mowed about 5 acres.

20240531_123342.jpg
 
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Chanceywd

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Kubota L2501DT BH77 VIRNIG URG60-CT 1950 8N
Mar 26, 2021
583
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central ny
Thanks! I think I have a bit of a problem with hoarding steel. I have a hard time throwing out even the smallest piece.

Good luck on the well pump replacement. Are you going to use your tractor to pull the pump?

I have an "abandoned" well on my property that is 550 ft deep. The pump is still down there with all the wiring and I'd like to get it working again even if it's just a pump house sitting over the casing. A few summers ago, after being told by the previous homeowner that the well had dried up, I dropped a small stone down the casing and heard a splash. I dropped another while using a stopwatch to time the fall, and then calculated that the water level was around 250 ft down.
Isn't it like 20' to the second drop? I recall something like that when I was pumping new wells at work we had for cooling. Did 4 of them and I used to lower 1-1/2 black plastic with a 2hp pump 200 ft. I rigged up a frame to go over the well with a pulley and a roller and would pull it with my ford ranger.
I still have that frame and a 16' "crane" I made for my 3pt on the 8N to raise the 32' trusses on my shop 20 years ago. I had a small winch on it and I was able to raise them by myself and the 12 high walls.
I made the "crane" from a damaged pallet rack end. I am thinking I can back that up to the well to start it and then manhandle the plastic . Maybe make a couple of clamp blocks of wood to hold the plastic to change the pull point too. Always trying to figure ways to do things and save the back. I plan on a brother or 2 to help when I do.

Bill
 
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