BX23S to RK Trailer rear hydraulic attachment

[DXer_Dad]

I just ordered a new RK utility dump trailer. This unit has a hand operated hydraulic pump but also the capability to connect it to your tractor's rear hydraulics. I am no expert here so wondering what would be required to hook it to the BX23S with the Backhoe removed.
Any pointers would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Henro]

Someone else can offer more, but first thing is the control valve on the dump trailer will have to be open center type, so the hydraulic fluid passes on to other control valves in the circuit without restriction when the trailer is not being dumped.

 

[DXer_Dad]

Someone else can offer more, but first thing is the control valve on the dump trailer will have to be open center type, so the hydraulic fluid passes on to other control valves in the circuit without restriction when the trailer is not being dumped.

Thanks for your response. It seems there is one hose coming from the RK King Kutter trailer that has to be hooked to the tractor. If this is going to be more of a hassle I might consider a 12V power pack for the trailer but it would have been nice hooking it to the tractor's hydraulics when the backhoe is removed.....

 

[DXer_Dad]

Someone else can offer more, but first thing is the control valve on the dump trailer will have to be open center type, so the hydraulic fluid passes on to other control valves in the circuit without restriction when the trailer is not being dumped.

This is what I found on another forum. It explains a little about the hydraulics on the trailer:
"It actually can be connected to the tractor hydraulics. It comes with a hydraulic hose with quick connects. Basically, the dump cylinder is a single acting cylinder. The hand pump is connected to the cylinder with a quick connect in the line. You simply disconnect this quick connect and connect the extension hose to the quick connect and then connect the other end to your tractor"

Now, my question is how to connect it to my BX23S......

 

[i7win7]

rk dump triler - Search Videos

www.bing.com

Seems to me when lowering trailer without 2nd hose will activate hydraulic pressure relief valve. Worst case replacing 3x12" cylinder may be cheaper than 12v power pack.

 

[Dave_eng]

This is what I found on another forum. It explains a little about the hydraulics on the trailer:
"It actually can be connected to the tractor hydraulics. It comes with a hydraulic hose with quick connects. Basically, the dump cylinder is a single acting cylinder. The hand pump is connected to the cylinder with a quick connect in the line. You simply disconnect this quick connect and connect the extension hose to the quick connect and then connect the other end to your tractor"

Now, my question is how to connect it to my BX23S......

I do not know your machine so please let me ask some questions.

Do you have any remote outlets on the rear of the machine which are controlled by a lever near the seat?

The hydraulic flow when a backhoe is present is from the main pump to the hoe control valve and then using a Power beyond port in the hoe valve to other things like the loader etc. When the hoe is removed you make a loop in the hydraulics using a hose to keep the rest of the stuff working

If you have rear remote(s), usually the owners' manual will outline what and how single and double acting cylinders can be connected.

It matters which outlet is used for a single acting cylinder as some rear ports have a load check on one port to maintain the cylinder in a fixed position without it drifting down over time.

Dave

 

[DXer_Dad]

I do not know your machine so please let me ask some questions.

Do you have any remote outlets on the rear of the machine which are controlled by a lever near the seat?

The hydraulic flow when a backhoe is present is from the main pump to the hoe control valve and then using a Power beyond port in the hoe valve to other things like the loader etc. When the hoe is removed you make a loop in the hydraulics using a hose to keep the rest of the stuff working

If you have rear remote(s), usually the owners' manual will outline what and how single and double acting cylinders can be connected.

It matters which outlet is used for a single acting cylinder as some rear ports have a load check on one port to maintain the cylinder in a fixed position without it drifting down over time.

Dave

Hi Dave,
Here is a link to the exact trailer I purchased. If you fwd the video you will see where the backhoe is detached and it shows you the rear hydraulics as well as a hose loop hose you have to put in when the backhoe is removed but I just looked at the manual and I do not see any levers or mention of hooking another hydraulic attachment to the rear besides the backhoe......
Here is the link if you have a moment to view the part showing all the rear hydraulics.
Thanks for your response.
Andre

Tractors - Sub-Compact - BX23S | Kubota

Browse through Kubota's BX23S Sub-Compact tractor inventory, filter search by features to find the best fit for you, or even build your own. Then find a dealer close by with your desired product!

www.kubotausa.com

 

[DXer_Dad]

rk dump triler - Search Videos

www.bing.com

Seems to me when lowering trailer without 2nd hose will activate hydraulic pressure relief valve. Worst case replacing 3x12" cylinder may be cheaper than 12v power pack.

Thanks for your input. I hope I can get this hooked up as the trailer cost me $2500 and it would be awesome not to use the manual pump.....

 

[Dave_eng]

Hi Dave,
Here is a link to the exact trailer I purchased. If you fwd the video you will see where the backhoe is detached and it shows you the rear hydraulics as well as a hose loop hose you have to put in when the backhoe is removed but I just looked at the manual and I do not see any levers or mention of hooking another hydraulic attachment to the rear besides the backhoe......
Here is the link if you have a moment to view the part showing all the rear hydraulics.
Thanks for your response.
Andre

Tractors - Sub-Compact - BX23S | Kubota

Browse through Kubota's BX23S Sub-Compact tractor inventory, filter search by features to find the best fit for you, or even build your own. Then find a dealer close by with your desired product!

www.kubotausa.com

When I look at the hoe hydraulics in the WSM I see three hose connections to the loader valve. A P from the main pump, a T for return to reservoir or tank from the hoe relief valve and a PB or power beyond line to feed other circuits on the tractor.

You make the loop when the hoe is removed from the P to the PB.

If there is also a third connection which would be the Tank one, then you are in an excellent position to install a new valve to control the dump trailer.

The new valve should have its own relief valve and a power beyond option.

Dave

 

[mikester]

Some hand pumps are only single acting hydraulics and might not handle the pressures of your tractor.

If you already have remotes on your tractor why not just use the tractor valve the raise and lower from your seat. Buy a double acting cylinder, a couple of hoses, fittings and you are done.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

I've had a 6by10 dump trailer for 8-10 years, every year...use truck to goto farm get 30-40 loads of 'ponypoop',come back, connect to tractor,haul 'outback' to dump,turn into compost. It has the 'normal' pump unit/battery setup. Easy to use....The BX23s is used to pile/turn the poop.....
There' are some possible 'problems' with what you want. 1st...assuming you use the BX23s to load the trailer, you need to be very,very careful as the trailer isn't attached to the tractor. Also every run means a lot of extra steps(connecting the trailer, hoses,etc.
There's a real cost to adding the extra 'remote' parts. Hoses, control valve, adapters, mounting brackets,etc.

What would make sense is to order the trailer WITHOUT the manual pump unit. The money saved there should buy all the necessary 'tractor plumbing' parts BUT even better would be to just buy a basic 'motor/pump/battery' unit. Overall it's a far 'cleaner' package. no modifcations to the BX23s. ANY tractor/ATV/?/ can use the trailer.

just another 'option' to consider ?
Jay

 

[Henro]

It looks like the RK dump trailer you mentioned is probably the one produced by King Kutter and sold by Rural King. Is this correct?

And with your BX 23S, unless you ordered them separately, you probably do not have any additional remotes installed. Is this also correct?

The trailer seems to have a pump similar to a hydraulic jack, and probably has a valve on it to return fluid in the cylinder back to the local reservoir. Hard to tell from a little bit of information provided on the rural King website.

The cylinder on the trailer is almost certainly single acting. Which means power dump and gravity down.

it looks like to do what you want to do you will have to buy a control valve that does two things:

First, when the valve is not operated it needs to pass the fluid on (from a power beyond port as mentioned Previously. )

Second, the valve will need to have the capability of returning fluid from the cylinder back to the tank, without disturbing the normal operation of the hydraulic circuit . (In other words not dead ending the hydraulic circuit when you move the lever to the lower position, as someone also mentioned above).

It looks like for the cost of a correctly-operating hydraulic valve, and some hoses and fittings, you can accomplish what you want to. I would guess you would also need to locate a point where you could hook a hose to return the fluid from the cylinder to tank when lowering. (Not sure if you could return the fluid to the power beyond loop or not. I believe it is normal practice to return to tank independently.)

Hope this adds something to the conversat...

 

[Henro]

I've had a 6by10 dump trailer for 8-10 years, every year...use truck to goto farm get 30-40 loads of 'ponypoop',come back, connect to tractor,haul 'outback' to dump,turn into compost. It has the 'normal' pump unit/battery setup. Easy to use....The BX23s is used to pile/turn the poop.....
There' are some possible 'problems' with what you want. 1st...assuming you use the BX23s to load the trailer, you need to be very,very careful as the trailer isn't attached to the tractor. Also every run means a lot of extra steps(connecting the trailer, hoses,etc.
There's a real cost to adding the extra 'remote' parts. Hoses, control valve, adapters, mounting brackets,etc.

What would make sense is to order the trailer WITHOUT the manual pump unit. The money saved there should buy all the necessary 'tractor plumbing' parts BUT even better would be to just buy a basic 'motor/pump/battery' unit. Overall it's a far 'cleaner' package. no modifcations to the BX23s. ANY tractor/ATV/?/ can use the trailer.

just another 'option' to consider ?
Jay

Also, consider GV Jay’s comments carefully. I would agree.

I have a road licensed 5x8 dump trailer with independent battery operated hydraulics. Never felt the need to power it from my tractor. Can easily dump 15 heavy loads of fill in a day without recharge. More than that probably need a recharge. My BX2200 pulls it well, except if the grass is wet or the slope is enough where I lose traction.

 

[RJ B2650]

It looks like the RK dump trailer you mentioned is probably the one produced by King Kutter and sold by Rural King. Is this correct?

And with your BX 23S, unless you ordered them separately, you probably do not have any additional remotes installed. Is this also correct?

The trailer seems to have a pump similar to a hydraulic jack, and probably has a valve on it to return fluid in the cylinder back to the local reservoir. Hard to tell from a little bit of information provided on the rural King website.

The cylinder on the trailer is almost certainly single acting. Which means power dump and gravity down.

it looks like to do what you want to do you will have to buy a control valve that does two things:

First, when the valve is not operated it needs to pass the fluid on (from a power beyond port as mentioned Previously. )

Second, the valve will need to have the capability of returning fluid from the cylinder back to the tank, without disturbing the normal operation of the hydraulic circuit . (In other words not dead ending the hydraulic circuit when you move the lever to the lower position, as someone also mentioned above).

It looks like for the cost of a correctly-operating hydraulic valve, and some hoses and fittings, you can accomplish what you want to. I would guess you would also need to locate a point where you could hook a hose to return the fluid from the cylinder to tank when lowering. (Not sure if you could return the fluid to the power beyond loop or not. I believe it is normal practice to return to tank independently.)

Hope this adds something to the conversat...

I apologize up front if this sounds naïve, I have a B2650 and just made my purchase of the King Kutter 1.5 ton (off road) dump trailer, https://www.amazon.com/King-Kutter-Dump-Trailer-1-5T-DT-XB/dp/B000N4V09S. So far it is amazing as using it on the road is a minimal need for me. My only concern/question is it features a single action cylinder (lift only) and a hand pump. It does however, offer a single hydraulic line to connect to the tractor. If I run a single long line from the 3rd function how will I control the dump? Also, can i convert the trailer cylinder to "dual action" and run (2) lines?

 

[GreensvilleJay]

when you push the lever to 'down', gravity on the trailer will force the oil 'backwards' through the control valve..
simply replacet he single acting cyl with a dual one(rated for same pressure and bore....) then connect the TWO lines to it. If you use male/female quick connects, you'll always KNOW which way the lever works for up vs dn.

 

[retiree-urgency abandoned]

Hi -

I'm coming in late to this thread, but I've got the King Kutter XB Dump trailer and am using it with my B3350. Before I got the 3350, I had the trailer and was using it with a garden tractor and the manual pump. When I got the 3350, I had the dealer install a (single) rear remote to use with the trailer. Long story short, the single line tractor-powered setup that King Kutter advertises didn't work for me. I'd dump the trailer and then the bed wouldn't go down - hydraulic Viagra ...

On my trailer, the hydraulic cylinder had a plug which I removed - my hopes were realized when I determined that it was a 2-way cylinder dumbed down to one way. I installed an angle fitting where the plug had been and bought another hydraulic hose for the return and now it works like a charm. You really need the 2nd hose.

Here are some additional thoughts/observations:

1. If you're adding rear remotes, might as well add 2 of them (one with float), so that you can do a t&t from the seat with a box blade.

2. Once you get set up with the tractor hydraulics, remove the manual pump - you'll never use it again. I left mine on and totally beat it to death by knocking it with my 3PH quick tach - finally removed it the other day.

3. Operating notes (all learned by hard knocks)

A. Remove the tailgate - it just gets in the way

B. When working with the trailer, a lot of times I'll park it at the worksite, disconnect from the 3350 and then load with bucket or forks - I've had to institute a 3 step checklist - when parking (1) trailer jack down, (2) disconnect hydraulic lines, (3) disconnect trailer hitch - when ready to move, reverse the order. I've done every boneheaded mistake (dropped tongue of loaded trailer on ground (forgot to put hitch pin in), pulled it by the the hydraulic lines, plowed a looooong 4" wide strip of turf off of the lawn (by not putting up the trailer jack - it makes a great single-bottom plow).

C. Don't overload (by weight) - I've found that the trailer can handle about 3 heaping (5') bucketfulls of dirt or gravel (plus you get a bucketfull in the bucket).

The trailer has been incredibly useful - benefit from my dumb mistakes and enjoy it!!

 

[roaf3]

Hi -

I'm coming in late to this thread, but I've got the King Kutter XB Dump trailer and am using it with my B3350. Before I got the 3350, I had the trailer and was using it with a garden tractor and the manual pump. When I got the 3350, I had the dealer install a (single) rear remote to use with the trailer. Long story short, the single line tractor-powered setup that King Kutter advertises didn't work for me. I'd dump the trailer and then the bed wouldn't go down - hydraulic Viagra ...

On my trailer, the hydraulic cylinder had a plug which I removed - my hopes were realized when I determined that it was a 2-way cylinder dumbed down to one way. I installed an angle fitting where the plug had been and bought another hydraulic hose for the return and now it works like a charm. You really need the 2nd hose.

Here are some additional thoughts/observations:

1. If you're adding rear remotes, might as well add 2 of them (one with float), so that you can do a t&t from the seat with a box blade.

2. Once you get set up with the tractor hydraulics, remove the manual pump - you'll never use it again. I left mine on and totally beat it to death by knocking it with my 3PH quick tach - finally removed it the other day.

3. Operating notes (all learned by hard knocks)

A. Remove the tailgate - it just gets in the way

B. When working with the trailer, a lot of times I'll park it at the worksite, disconnect from the 3350 and then load with bucket or forks - I've had to institute a 3 step checklist - when parking (1) trailer jack down, (2) disconnect hydraulic lines, (3) disconnect trailer hitch - when ready to move, reverse the order. I've done every boneheaded mistake (dropped tongue of loaded trailer on ground (forgot to put hitch pin in), pulled it by the the hydraulic lines, plowed a looooong 4" wide strip of turf off of the lawn (by not putting up the trailer jack - it makes a great single-bottom plow).

C. Don't overload (by weight) - I've found that the trailer can handle about 3 heaping (5') bucketfulls of dirt or gravel (plus you get a bucketfull in the bucket).

The trailer has been incredibly useful - benefit from my dumb mistakes and enjoy it!!

I have an L3200- I just purchased the same trailer - I appreciated your checklist as I have seen versions of all of that ! Do you have any pics ? I am trying to plumb into the Land Pride 3rd function - I just nred to dump with no pump ! Thx - Roy

 

[retiree-urgency abandoned]

Not sure that any pix of mine will help you with 3rd function plumbing. When I bought the B3350, I had them put a (single) rear remote on it. Knowing what I know now, I should have had them put dual remotes on - that way I would have been set for tilt & top for the grader blade/yard box. Eventually I'll upgrade to duals.

On my RK Dump, they included a single hydraulic line extension - as I recall, I had to change the tractor end fitting to mate with my rear remote outlet. Had to do the same thing on the 2nd hyd. line I installed on the dump cylinder.

So are you plumbing from 3rd function (on the FEL) and running it back to the dump wagon? If so, there may be some other posts somewhere on OTT about doing that.

Good luck getting it set up - once you're up & running, you'll love it.

 

[roaf3]

Not sure that any pix of mine will help you with 3rd function plumbing. When I bought the B3350, I had them put a (single) rear remote on it. Knowing what I know now, I should have had them put dual remotes on - that way I would have been set for tilt & top for the grader blade/yard box. Eventually I'll upgrade to duals.

On my RK Dump, they included a single hydraulic line extension - as I recall, I had to change the tractor end fitting to mate with my rear remote outlet. Had to do the same thing on the 2nd hyd. line I installed on the dump cylinder.

So are you plumbing from 3rd function (on the FEL) and running it back to the dump wagon? If so, there may be some other posts somewhere on OTT about doing that.

Good luck getting it set up - once you're up & running, you'll love it.

No problem- I enjoyed your post !

 

[TheOldHokie]

I have an L3200- I just purchased the same trailer - I appreciated your checklist as I have seen versions of all of that ! Do you have any pics ? I am trying to plumb into the Land Pride 3rd function - I just nred to dump with no pump ! Thx - Roy

Why not add an inexpensive rear remote valve for the trailer? Makes the plumbing neater and is general purpose.

Dan