Front Snow blower for M7060 / M6060

[Fezzik]

I have a m7060. Looking for a snow blower. I have a snow wolf ultra 108 plow that I'm fixing up, but I think i'm going to need a snow blower. I dont think the plow will work well on clearing trails and my sandy dirt road going to my RV when its a foot or more. I could be wrong and if I am please let me know. But if you think I need a snow blower. Your thoughts. I have found a blower that was on a mx5200 that was a john deere blower that was converted to a skid steer and rear pto hydraulic pump for about 3500. It has hoses to run to the back as well. Would you jump on that. Thanks for the advice!
Edit: or maybe a rear pull snow blower. I'm worried about a rear push 3 pt snow blower with the hills I have

 

[Dave_eng]

I have a m7060. Looking for a snow blower. I have a snow wolf ultra 108 plow that I'm fixing up, but I think i'm going to need a snow blower. I dont think the plow will work well on clearing trails and my sandy dirt road going to my RV when its a foot or more. I could be wrong and if I am please let me know. But if you think I need a snow blower. Your thoughts. I have found a blower that was on a mx5200 that was a john deere blower that was converted to a skid steer and rear pto hydraulic pump for about 3500. It has hoses to run to the back as well. Would you jump on that. Thanks for the advice!
Edit: or maybe a rear pull snow blower. I'm worried about a rear push 3 pt snow blower with the hills I have

Unless the hydraulically driven unit is a factory built one, I would stay away. Many individuals make up these pto pump arrangements but often their knowledge is a bit lacking and it may well be being sold because of its shortcomings.

If you look at the hydraulic power pacs being built by Landpride (Now Kubota) they require 52 hp into the unit and deliver 43 hp out to a blower or rotary cutter. A loss of a significant amount of power.

Also note the substantial cooling fan as the lost 9 horsepower is being converted into heat.

I use an inverted blower on a M7040 and have had it since 2012. Often I can blow at speeds a back up style blower would find impossible. Sometimes 15+ kph. This is because you are driving in the direction the tractor was designed to run at speed in.

The blower is 90" wide.

I added a rear blade and adjustable wheels to my blower. The blade works to pull snow away from garage and shop doors. The hydraulically adjustable wheels help to support the blower before the ground freezes.

I use TRYGG studded chains on the rear wheels. I clear two brothers paved driveways and the chains may make slight polish marks which disappear when the sun comes out and the asphalt oxidizes again.

There can be times when the snow is too deep to both drive through and blow. Then I back into the show drift and pull forward blowing it away. This is a rare event.

Dave

 

[SidecarFlip]

I run a 10 foot power angle retired county plow on the front of my M9 and a Lucknow 80" rear blower but I do the road and it's flat here. If I cannot push it, I blow it. Never been too much, even with 8 foot drifts and I only run chains on the front tires, not the rear. Only reason I run chains at all is plow steer.

 

[SidecarFlip]

Nice blower Dave....

 

[Fezzik]

Wow. Nice blower. Also that is a honking big hydraulic pump. The one im looking at is maybe 20gpm. but its custom made with no cooler. Could one be run on the 12 speed m7060 that has the 16gpm flow rate?

 

[torch]

I have a m7060. I dont think the plow will work well on clearing trails and my sandy dirt road going to my RV when its a foot or more. I could be wrong and if I am please let me know. But if you think I need a snow blower. Your thoughts.

I assume these trails are through the bush? In my experience, a blade might work the first couple of snowfalls. But then warm spells come and go, turning the plow row packed around the trees into frozen reinforced concrete. Hard on the equipment if you can even move it at all later in the season.

A snowblower tosses the snow way back into the bush where it can sit harmlessly until spring. If you have side trails, use the chute rotation as you pass to avoid filling the intersection.

 

[Fezzik]

I assume these trails are through the bush? In my experience, a blade might work the first couple of snowfalls. But then warm spells come and go, turning the plow row packed around the trees into frozen reinforced concrete. Hard on the equipment if you can even move it at all later in the season.

A snowblower tosses the snow way back into the bush where it can sit harmlessly until spring. If you have side trails, use the chute rotation as you pass to avoid filling the intersection.

Yes. This was one of my worries. The side trails I thought i'd just do a light shovel after I do a pass to keep that clean where the plow/ blower could not go.

 

[Fezzik]

Here are some pics of it. Wanting $3500 for it

 

[Dave_eng]

The one for $3,500 has the look of a build by someone with limited hydraulic experience judging by the use of plumbing fittings instead of hydraulic fittings.

My concern would be that it is for sale because, in the end, the design did not work.

Until I looked I did not realize that the M7060 could have two different pumps. The larger on the 12 speed @16 gpm.

Landpride states their hydraulically driven blowers need 12 to 33 gpm.

Their product literature shows the blower on a skid steer type machine. Skid Steers have a more robust hydraulic system than a medium sized farm tractor.

Assuming a Landpride blower would do a reasonable job with a 16 gpm flow, starting with their product for a season to see if the performance was acceptable and if not then making or buying a pto driven pump makes more sense than a gamble on someone else's build.

This is an addition to my initial post,

I looked up Farm King's spec's for hydraulically driven blowers.

Their minimum flow rate is 17 gpm and that is only on their narrow blowers.

Dave